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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I Currently have 35" MT/R's on a 2.5" RE lift. When I decide to go 37's would it be reasonable to keep the 2.5" lift and do flat fenders to gain the clearance? What will suffer as opposed to replacing with a 3.5" RE lift and doing all the nuances involved with a lift that high. My axles will be trussed and new U joints axle shafts etc. has anyone done this? Pros/cons? For reference it is a 2012 JKUR with soon to be 5.13 gears.
 

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wheeled with this guy in Moab. He had 2.5" RK lift with 37's and stock fenders he trimmed to flat fenders. He never had an issue with rubbing that I could see. he was running GY MTR's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks jadmt!! That actually looks good. Kjepper10 I realize the 4 doors need the extra clearance due to their long wheelbase. This isn't a major concern for me as I usually stay within my limits on the trail and don't try to do anything I don't think my rig is capable of. I'm more curious if anyone has done this and what their experience with it.
 

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I have 37s on RK X Factor 2.5 but a 2 door. If you use your lockers, add about $3k to your budget for hydro assist on 37s. Mine is being installed this week.

For a 4 door, your break over angle sucks way worse than 2 doors - I would do 3.5 on a limo hands down. On 2.5 you will get lots of tummy time - this isn't an issue with two doors. If you say you won't - you aren't playing places it would be worth going to 37s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the advice mommymallcrawler. I think long run it makes more sense for me to do a 3.5" lift and all the shenanigans that go with it. I'll just have to wait it bit longer to save up the cash👍💵
 

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I ran 37s with a 2.5" lift with this 2011 four door JK.





 

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It was a Teraflex 2.5" lift, with Synergy control arms. The flat fenders were from Genright and the rear pinch seam was trimmed. No tire rub at all, but not a lot of room to spare either. I daily drove the Jeep, and it drove very well. The axles were stock Rubicon 44s, with Synergy sleeves and gussets, with RCV shafts in front. Gearing was 5.38:1, which worked well with the tall geared auto trans that was in 3.8 powered JKs.

Belly clearance was only a real issue twice. One time I had to drive around the "fun" line after getting high centered on several attempts. Another time, in snow, I had to use the winch and just drag it through.



 

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I'm hoping someone can help me. I have a '11 Unlimited Rubicon with a 4 inch lift, currently on 20 inch rims. Current tires are 325/60r20. I am wanting to drop down to a 17 or 18 inch rim but not sure what size tire to get to guarantee correct fit. Any help?
 

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It was a Teraflex 2.5" lift, with Synergy control arms. The flat fenders were from Genright and the rear pinch seam was trimmed. No tire rub at all, but not a lot of room to spare either. I daily drove the Jeep, and it drove very well. The axles were stock Rubicon 44s, with Synergy sleeves and gussets, with RCV shafts in front. Gearing was 5.38:1, which worked well with the tall geared auto trans that was in 3.8 powered JKs.

Belly clearance was only a real issue twice. One time I had to drive around the "fun" line after getting high centered on several attempts. Another time, in snow, I had to use the winch and just drag it through.
Awesome. What height of bumpstops?
 

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Awesome. What height of bumpstops?
Just the standard bumpstops that come with a Teraflex 2.5" lift, which are 2.5" bumpstops.
 

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I Currently have 35" MT/R's on a 2.5" RE lift. When I decide to go 37's would it be reasonable to keep the 2.5" lift and do flat fenders to gain the clearance? What will suffer as opposed to replacing with a 3.5" RE lift and doing all the nuances involved with a lift that high. My axles will be trussed and new U joints axle shafts etc. has anyone done this? Pros/cons? For reference it is a 2012 JKUR with soon to be 5.13 gears.
Not sure what all the "nuances" you are referring to with the 3.5" lift? I have a 2015 4dr Hard Rock and I did the AEV 3.5" lift with the AEV drop brackets. Everything you need is in the kit except for the 2" exhaust spacers. I run Toyo ATII 35's on the stock rims with 2" spacers. It looks very balanced and drives and handles much better than it did stock. No rubbing or driveline issues. I went with 4.56 gears, with the 35's that puts my RPM at 2700 at 75 mph, the same as when it was stock. I am buying a set of MRW bead lock wheels with 37" sticky tires just for wheeling. The 35's work great for just about any trail in Colorado that is appropriate for this rig, when I go do the big stuff in Moab I trailer it over with the 37's on it. This way I get the best DD setup and can easily switch to the bigger tires for the harder stuff. The real benefit is the bead locks i.e. I go down to 5 psi and get much better grip crawling, the 37's aired down are about equal to the 35's aired up as far as height.

I would go with the 3.5" lift but buy a complete engineered kit from one of the reputable manufacturers. I see too many people go for the cheapest setup and mix up parts from different companies. That's fine if you really know what you are doing, but a lot of people end up with rubbing, vibration, death wobble, etc.

PS-I am in Franktown if you want to come by and see the setup.
 

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Long time ago 37s on 2.5 lift with flatties. Other downside of 2.5 with 37s (KM2 cheaters) was constantly bouncing off the bump-stops. Keep in mind with flatties you don't need all the excessive bump-stop extensions the kits come with. Plan on a set of adjustable bump-stops to maximize your travel.
 

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