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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
can i put 37 inch tires on a stock rubi d44? if not what might/should be done to accept a 37. (and for the sake of not getting off topic I WILL have the room to fit the 37s FOR SURE)
 

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jskinn27 said:
i may be mistaken, but i have heard that the stock rubi D44's are just about as strong as D35.
You are mistaken. The D35 is 27 Spline. The D44 is a 30 Spline.

The axles housings themselves are the same strength wise.

And most would limit TJ D44s to 35" tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I believe you are mistaken. Can u make a d35 just as strong or stronder yes but i know very little aboit the d44s stock strength and tire/weight limitations. If d35s wernt anybetter it wouldnt be an upgraded package.
You are mistaken. The D35 is 27 Spline. The D44 is a 30 Spline.

The axles housings themselves are the same strength wise.

And most would limit TJ D44s to 35" tires.
Waht do i need to do then. Just new shaft. Would i need new lockers too?
 

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You could probably swap new shafts in and be able to run them okay as long as you don't beat on them too hard.
 

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Superior is the premier company for axle shafts. As for 37s on a dana 44 you are pushing what it can do if you wheel it hard. To be totally comfortable with 37s you really need to go to a dana 60. Also MikeMTJ is correct about the different axle specifications above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sweet thanks for the help guys
 

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from what i have read before 37 is pushing the limit of D44. its better if you upgrade to 8.8 or a D60.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
from what i have read before 37 is pushing the limit of D44. its better if you upgrade to 8.8 or a D60.
thats just most likely no where near my buget or my needs and i dont wheel crazy and these mods are a ways off. but i like to have time to research so i know exactly what im gettin b4 i buy it. ill kknow the pros and cons. but i think i figured out what i wana do with my jeep. ima add one more inch with bigger springs. (from RK 3.5 to RE 4.5) if it doesnt drive well with the short arms ill put the LA kit on it. then metal cloak fenders for extra room and 37s for tires. i think thatll make a badass rig. esp me being a LJ rubi. now if i can figure out which bumpers and sliders first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok just thought of another question. so since i have a 4 link from rock krawler my rear axle is trussed. that helps in strength too right. so i guess its not a stock rubi axle at that point right? well it is and isnt.
 

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I run a Rubi rear with Superior shafts and it's trussed. Where and how I wheel, I wouldn't feel comfortable on 37's. Do I 'think' it would hold up fine? Yes. The front would probably be the larger issue, regardless of if it's a HP30 or LP44.

A couple other observations: The D35 cannot be 'made as strong' as a 44. You're still dealing with a 7.62" ring gear vs. an 8.5" ring gear.

The RK truss--yes, it strengthens the housing. I ran the RK 4 link kit for a long time. Long story short, it destroys the rear geometry and causes a very excessive amount of anti-squat. Go climb a rock wall and hammer down--you'll bounce and that breaks stuff. Additionally, the truss isn't well-supported in the direction the arms are trying to 'pull' it. After building a custom suspension while retaining the truss, I finally bent the truss. Now I no longer run any of the RK parts--the geometry is perfect, the truss is stronger, and there's no more bouncing. So, with the RK setup I wouldn't try 37's unless you don't wheel hard. The bouncing will break a shaft or R&P.

And as for short arms 'not driving well'......only if you're doing something wrong. Arm length does not determine how well a rig will drive. That's all in the know-how of the guy building the rig.
 

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Coop, I think you get the Superior 30 splines axles for the rear (not sure about fronts) for around $300 w the lifetime guarantee, if you stop at 35s you should be set. Sounds like 37s are gonna be a expensive step up....besides that, if you go up to 37s you will leave us all behind..;)
 

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Im doing a build right now where I will be using 37's on rubi 44's, the only difference is they are off a JKand I have a 06 LJ. I have already tubed the inside of the axle tube on the front , have the outer tube kit ready to install, also have the evo inner c gusset kit, I'll let you know how it goes, still have to cut off all the axle brackets, already bought new brackets for front and rear. cant wait...
 

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Im doing a build right now where I will be using 37's on rubi 44's, the only difference is they are off a JKand I have a 06 LJ. I have already tubed the inside of the axle tube on the front , have the outer tube kit ready to install, also have the evo inner c gusset kit, I'll let you know how it goes, still have to cut off all the axle brackets, already bought new brackets for front and rear. cant wait...
Completely different situation. Compare the pinion size to a TJ 44 and you'll see why. Those are great axles for 37's and as long as the housings are beefed up, will have no problems.
 

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i agree, i have all the axles side by side, the Jks are noticably beefier, but to listen to all the guys on these forums, you woyld think they are exactly the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I run a Rubi rear with Superior shafts and it's trussed. Where and how I wheel, I wouldn't feel comfortable on 37's. Do I 'think' it would hold up fine? Yes. The front would probably be the larger issue, regardless of if it's a HP30 or LP44.

A couple other observations: The D35 cannot be 'made as strong' as a 44. You're still dealing with a 7.62" ring gear vs. an 8.5" ring gear.

The RK truss--yes, it strengthens the housing. I ran the RK 4 link kit for a long time. Long story short, it destroys the rear geometry and causes a very excessive amount of anti-squat. Go climb a rock wall and hammer down--you'll bounce and that breaks stuff. Additionally, the truss isn't well-supported in the direction the arms are trying to 'pull' it. After building a custom suspension while retaining the truss, I finally bent the truss. Now I no longer run any of the RK parts--the geometry is perfect, the truss is stronger, and there's no more bouncing. So, with the RK setup I wouldn't try 37's unless you don't wheel hard. The bouncing will break a shaft or R&P.

And as for short arms 'not driving well'......only if you're doing something wrong. Arm length does not determine how well a rig will drive. That's all in the know-how of the guy building the rig.
OK good info there. yea i havnt experienced any of that bouncing yet.(but i havnt really had to hammer down either) idk if it changes with the wheel base im in a LJ. and isnt it tru that ur control arms need to be at a certain angle. if their too steep it wont drive right. i had a buddy witha 6inch lift on SAs he said it drove like CRAP. he couldnt go over 55.
whats hard wheeling really. like johnson vally? the rubicon trail? how is HARD defined in wheeling standards. i dont think i wheel every hard. but i do often.
and can u exlain more what you mean by not being susported in the direction the arms are pulling. which way are they pulling. is there a diff 4link u like better? besides a custom one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Coop, I think you get the Superior 30 splines axles for the rear (not sure about fronts) for around $300 w the lifetime guarantee, if you stop at 35s you should be set. Sounds like 37s are gonna be a expensive step up....besides that, if you go up to 37s you will leave us all behind..;)
dont worry bill ill never leave you!!! lol and im just thinking ahead.
 
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