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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought 2.5 inch lift kit and within next month I was going to get 35 in tires and get everything installed. Today I drove by a JKU with 37's and I said to myself "damn that is SWEET". What things should I consider going from 35 to 37. Do I need to upgrade anything b/c of the increase tire weight? I am also planning to regear from 3.73 to 4.56 or 4.88 anyways. I don't do any trailing. Will I scrape with 2.5 lift?
 

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So I bought 2.5 inch lift kit and within next month I was going to get 35 in tires and get everything installed. Today I drove by a JKU with 37's and I said to myself "damn that is SWEET". What things should I consider going from 35 to 37. Do I need to upgrade anything b/c of the increase tire weight? I am also planning to regear from 3.73 to 4.56 or 4.88 anyways. I don't do any trailing. Will I scrape with 2.5 lift?
You will want to beef up your D44 front axle if you have 1, truss, C-Gussets, sleeves what all requires welding and while you're at it add in new ball joints ect. You will also want adjustable control arms for you lift. Could cost you in the area of $5,000 to have that work done by a shop depending on quality of parts. If you have a D30 front axle you will be on borrowed time and will want a D44 for the front axle, new that's about $6,000 fully loaded (not including install). If you go with flat fenders on a 2.5" lift 37's will work with adjustable control arms to center the axle in the wheel wells and keep you larger tires from slicing on the body pinch seams. 35" tires will save you $1,000's to run correctly.
What lift did you get? What axle do you have? Whats your budget?
 

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I agree, reinforce that axle with sleeves and gussets or a truss system like Artec's. Might actually be a better option to swap out the front axle for a 44 if you don't have one already. You're best to decide on it all and do it in one session it will be cheaper that way. You might also want to look at flat fenders and cut the pinch seam back.

Jeremy
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You will want to beef up your D44 front axle if you have 1, truss, C-Gussets, sleeves what all requires welding and while you're at it add in new ball joints ect. You will also want adjustable control arms for you lift. Could cost you in the area of $5,000 to have that work done by a shop depending on quality of parts. If you have a D30 front axle you will be on borrowed time and will want a D44 for the front axle, new that's about $6,000 fully loaded (not including install). If you go with flat fenders on a 2.5" lift 37's will work with adjustable control arms to center the axle in the wheel wells and keep you larger tires from slicing on the body pinch seams. 35" tires will save you $1,000's to run correctly. What lift did you get? What axle do you have? Whats your budget?
Thanks for the info. Still new to all this. I got Teraflex 2.5 with Rancho 9000. I have the axle that came with a standard JKU sport.
 

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I agree, reinforce that axle with sleeves and gussets or a truss system like Artec's. Might actually be a better option to swap out the front axle for a 44 if you don't have one already. You're best to decide on it all and do it in one session it will be cheaper that way. You might also want to look at flat fenders and cut the pinch seam back.

Jeremy
If he's got a newer JK, and sticks to not wheeling hard, no need to trim the seam...it's factory trimmed plenty.

Totally agree it's best to do axle upgrading of components all at once. Get that mess over with lol.
 

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Thanks for the info. Still new to all this. I got Teraflex 2.5 with Rancho 9000. I have the axle that came with a standard JKU sport.
If you have anything but a Rubicon/Hard Rock/COD/10A (D44 front axle) then you will have a D30 front axle, what should not run 37" tires. If you have a $10,000+ budget you can get a D44 front axle and 37" tires setup correctly. If not get 35" tires and and you can C-Gusset, truss, sleeve and ball joint your D30 to play it safe for the lightweight front axle. Not all that is needed but would add strength to a possible bent axle down the road.
 

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If you have anything but a Rubicon/Hard Rock/COD/10A (D44 front axle) then you will have a D30 front axle, what should not run 37" tires. If you have a $10,000+ budget you can get a D44 front axle and 37" tires setup correctly. If not get 35" tires and and you can C-Gusset, truss, sleeve and ball joint your D30 to play it safe for the lightweight front axle. Not all that is needed but would add strength to a possible bent axle down the road.
The "D44" in Rubicon Jeep JK's is not a true D44 with all the trimmings. It and the D30 share the same:

Axle tubes
C forgings
Ball Joints

The major downgrade in weakness is the Ring and Pinion size and the axle shaft (spline count).

Doesn't cost anywhere near $10k to do it right, unless you farm everything out to a shop. Maybe close if you're counting the cost of the lift and wheels, tires.

If he's not wheeling it hard the D30 will be okay for a street DD Jeep. Gusseting the C's is advisable, especially given the low cost of doing so. And I'm saying street DD Jeep because of post #1.

And don't confuse all that with saying it's ideal to run 37's on a D30. It's not.

OP...I'd keep a regear down to 4.56 and no lower (numerically higher) if you're gonna wheel it some with 37's on a D30...and cryo them to boot. It's inexpensive to get the cryo treatment and puts SOME strength into the R&P.

Plenty of folks have 37's on D30s and don't grenade anything. A lot of it has to do with careful planning and being conservative in your driving habits.
 

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I have heavy Toyo 37x13.5x17's on my stock Dana 44 axles with over 40k on them. Is it ideal... hell no ... but I have full warranty and know my weak points...ball joints, axles and front D44 axle housing is pretty weak and will smile over time...

I don't extreme rock crawl, but use my rig a lot off road with no issues yet...knock on wood...

Things to look at when running 37's:
Brakes
driveshafts
gearing
tire carrier
axles front and rear
axle housing front
pro cal
etc...

Research and know your weak points when going out off road as it is your responsibility for your jeep and not someone else's...

I know my weak points and except the chances, but I regularly do my own maintenance and I'm always on the look out for potential issues etc...

Lastly with 2.5" you might need to trim the fenders or go flat fenders...

My two cents...grin...

SC
 

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I'll play spoiler here. Read this before you get 37's. Less Is More: Jeep Wrangler JK Suspension - Jp Magazine
Sometimes those articles yield good info, sometimes not. I do know, having traded my 2002 TJ I had bought new on my 4dr, that I lost a lot of off-road maneuverability (shorter wheelbase, as well as breakover). In my case going 37's won't recover all the breakover I lost, but it will aid some and is worth it to me. Although I don't feel the need to defend my decision to do it, I'm just giving an example of some of the things media sometimes does not, or will not include in their published materials.

I say if someone wants 35's, nobody should tell them THEY don't really want 35's. Or 37's. Educating and helping is the way to go :thumb:
 

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Sometimes those articles yield good info, sometimes not. I do know, having traded my 2002 TJ I had bought new on my 4dr, that I lost a lot of off-road maneuverability (shorter wheelbase, as well as breakover). In my case going 37's won't recover all the breakover I lost, but it will aid some and is worth it to me. Although I don't feel the need to defend my decision to do it, I'm just giving an example of some of the things media sometimes does not, or will not include in their published materials. I say if someone wants 35's, nobody should tell them THEY don't really want 35's. Or 37's. Educating and helping is the way to go :thumb:
I agree with you 100%. You will notice that I never said he shouldn't want or get 37's, just that he might decide to go a different route after gathering more info.
 

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I'm sorry but that article lost all credibility when they said they put a 3" spacer on top of the stock coils and added shock extenders to the factory shocks for their lift. That is a complete cheap skate route that is in no way the best setup for 35" tires.
3" is a bit much but ive seen 2.5 spacers, cut flares, etc. i would run longer shocks for the extensions.
 

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I'm sorry but that article lost all credibility when they said they put a 3" spacer on top of the stock coils and added shock extenders to the factory shocks for their lift. That is a complete cheap skate route that is in no way the best setup for 35" tires.
The HP D30's found in the JK's (except the earliest JK's) is improved over the TJ's. Where were they about the TJ's? This magazine was just making an angle so they could write that stuff...media.
 

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I'm sorry but that article lost all credibility when they said they put a 3" spacer on top of the stock coils and added shock extenders to the factory shocks for their lift. That is a complete cheap skate route that is in no way the best setup for 35" tires.
"After accumulating about 30,000 miles on our lifted JK with 35s, some of our aftermarket suspension components were worn out beyond useable condition. During that time we came to the conclusion that we liked the way our JK rode and drove better with the stock suspension on it. However, we appreciated the additional clearance that the 35s afforded. So we set out to find a way to keep the big tires and regain the factory-like ride, handling, and performance both on- and off-road."

The whole point of their article was to show you how to get the lift needed for 35's while PURPOSEFULLY retaining your stock shocks and coils. No where in that article does it say that this is the preferred method for clearing 35" tires. Just showing people a way to do it if you are dead-set on keeping the factory components.

To each his own! :bop:
 

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"After accumulating about 30,000 miles on our lifted JK with 35s, some of our aftermarket suspension components were worn out beyond useable condition. During that time we came to the conclusion that we liked the way our JK rode and drove better with the stock suspension on it. However, we appreciated the additional clearance that the 35s afforded. So we set out to find a way to keep the big tires and regain the factory-like ride, handling, and performance both on- and off-road."

The whole point of their article was to show you how to get the lift needed for 35's while PURPOSEFULLY retaining your stock shocks and coils. No where in that article does it say that this is the preferred method for clearing 35" tires. Just showing people a way to do it if you are dead-set on keeping the factory components.

To each his own! :bop:
My impression, after freshly reading this again (I remember reading it some time ago), is they're saying the factory components are better than the components in the lift kit they have on there (I don't recall them naming said suspension manufacturer). My issue with that is that they're kind of implying a blanket statement that the factory bushings, etc, are better than lift components. So not true, and most here know that already.

I wonder what lift they had on there (maybe I should read it more closely, could've missed it). If it was a crappy lift, well, then there's that explanation. Also...they imply that they get everything from the route they went that you would with a lift. Not so...especially on shock relo brackets.

Having said all that, I say those that want 35's more power to them...and those that want 37's, same thing...33's, same thing...
 

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Another thing to keep in mind is that not all 37's are equal so it depends on what tire and wheel combo you are talking about. A 37" BFG KO2 is lighter than a lot of the 35's out there and closer in diameter to some of the 35's too. So there are some guys putting more strain on their equipment with their 35's than others with their 37's.

I have a Dana 44 Axle with C Gussets, HD Ball Joints and Gearing for my BFK KO2 35's. I could probably step up to the 37" KO2's without any problems because they are only 4.8 lbs heaver and not much bigger at all.

And I wouldn't run 35's or 37's on a Dana 30 unless its just a mall crawler.
 
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