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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So..... My 88 has been acting funny for a while so it's been parked until I could get it in to the shop to see exactly what it was (I have no idea about motor problems). I had it diagnosed as a carb problem about 2 months ago so I ordered a Weber and took it to the shop yesterday. Got a call today saying that the weber didn't fix the problem. The mechanic is a buddy of my family and is the most reasonable guy to do business with, he said they would go through and see what it could be, I figured I would ask the you all what it could be.

So here's what it's doing:

When I got it diagnosed (not the mechanic who's doing the work now) he said it was the auto choke and "tuned it" as he said and it ran fine for a few days. It would just barely run and when you gave it gas and let off the pedal it would die. You could drive it as long as when you came to a stop you better be tapping the pedal so it wouldn't die. That's why he figured it was the carb.

Well it ran ok somedays and terrible the others. It bounces from 250 rpms to say 750 rpms. Troy said that it may some kind of intake problem somewhere.

So now I'm stuck wondering what its gonna take to fix it until he calls back in the next few days.

Any ideas?:nonono:

Thanks, Jake
 

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Wow, my Jeep just had the exact same problem. We replaced the intake gasket, carb, then the plugs, adjusted the timing.... Then a smoke test was performed and it was a leaking EGR valve. Replaced that and it runs fine. I had all of the exact same symptoms in my 89 4.2
 

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I second the vacuum leak. They can reak all kinds of havok. That could be just a bad line or a bad intake or carb gasket. Your mechanic better know how to check for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I sure appreciate it guys. Just hoping this thing isn't about to empty my pocket book. My exhaust is done for it after 24 years it's time for an upgrade. I guess the more I fix now, the less I'll have to do down the road.

Thanks, Jake
 

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Mine would do that when the exhaust manifold bolts closest to the firewall would get loose. It would not stay running when I would slow down for a corner or a stop and idle would be all over the place. I would tighten the bolts and it would be good for 3-6 months and then start doing it again. 👋
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mine would do that when the exhaust manifold bolts closest to the firewall would get loose. It would not stay running when I would slow down for a corner or a stop and idle would be all over the place. I would tighten the bolts and it would be good for 3-6 months and then start doing it again. 👋
This could very well be the problem, it's the original exhaust. I need to replace manifold, pipes and muffler BAD.
 

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jakester12 said:
This could very well be the problem, it's the original exhaust. I need to replace manifold, pipes and muffler BAD.
Same here. After tightening the manifold the last couple years to fix the running problem, I now have a problem with a plugged cat. and it caused high heat causing the pipe and manifold to turn white and cracked the manifold in a couple places. Ordered new manifold but trying to decide whether to buy new converter or get one from pull and save. I just have one more emissions test and then my vehicle is old enough to be exempt. Good luck with yours.
 

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I went with a catco high flow cat from summit. I am not sure, but it is probably cheaper that a factory replacement and flows better. It has been a few years since I got mine, but it was around $60.
 

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daddyjeep said:
I went with a catco high flow cat from summit. I am not sure, but it is probably cheaper that a factory replacement and flows better. It has been a few years since I got mine, but it was around $60.
Thanks. I will check Summit & see what they have. So far the cheapest I found is $103.00, but it's probably very restrictive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well just got it back, it was the intake gasket. Runs like a top with the weber too. A lot more HP gains compared to the crappy stock carb.
 
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