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Discussion Starter · #883 ·
I have the same one, but haven't installed it yet.
Did you just use the brackets that came with it to install it? I was thinking about using some angle iron.
I did use the brackets it came with. I got a small piece of steel to extend from the radiator mount so i could mount it. I tried to take pictures while i was making it, but my phone wasn't cooperating at the time. Ill try to take some!
 

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Discussion Starter · #884 ·
Installed the Currie front upper control arms. This was actually really easy.

I reused the stock nut and bolt from the jeep and used it on the axle side of the control arm. That way I didn't have to drill out the axle side mount to fit the new hardware. I've heard of people breaking their 7/16ths drill bit, so I didn't chance it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #886 ·
Okay, so I've run into a small issue. The harness came out of an 05 GMC with a 4.8.

This is the O2 sensor for that vehicle with that engine: https://www.autozone.com/engine-man...exact-fit-oxygen-sensor/182612_102074_0_98000

This is the O2 sensor for the 2006 silverado: https://www.autozone.com/engine-man...exact-fit-oxygen-sensor/955519_102074_0_97999

You'll notice the different color and the plugs are not comparable. So should I connect new connections to put the correct O2 sensors or put the O2 sensors that fit the harness and see if that works? There is a reasonable price difference between the two if you shop somewhere other than autozone.

I'm not sure if the 05 GMC O2 Sensors put out what the 06 Chevy computer is looking for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #887 ·
Okay guys, here's an update. I did some cleaning up of some wiring. I wired the GREEN wire from the dash panel air conditioning to the blue wire with a orange tracer that runs to the air conditioning relay.

As it was, the jeep PCM needed two grounds, one from the air conditioning switch on the dash and one wired though the air conditioning pressure switches. Once these two grounds were produced, the PCM would send a ground signal to the blue wire with an orange tracer.

By splicing the two wires, this bypasses the jeep PCM. The Novak harness sends power through the pressure sensors then to the compressor. So everything is still working as the factory wanted it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #888 ·
Also, I was again having problems with it running. It happened shortly after I fixed the MAF sensor.

Again, it would crank, fire, then die once the key returned to the "run" position. Which led me to believe that there was a problem with the ignition. Upon reading about that, I thought I'd go over all the grounds and make sure they're tight. The one that hangs out of the jeep fuse box loom right in the center of the engine bay was not connected AT ALL. so I moved the Novak harness ground and grounded it with the one in the fuse box against the fire wall and it cranked up and ran.

I'm going to try it again tomorrow to make sure it wasn't a fluke. But now that I'm posting about it, it will probably be a fluke. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #889 ·
Just got off of the phone with Tim from Dakota Digital with regards to the VSS signal manipulator they sell. The SGI-5E. He said it IS possible to convert the chevy VSS signal to the Jeep signal... So I might just keep the jeep gauges. I want this thing to look as clean as possible! I already have the SGI-5E so its worth trying before scrapping the old gauges and going new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #892 ·
Ive got the old jeep harness out and have gone through and found the oil pressure sensor, fuel gauge sensor, speed sensor, and the coolant temperature pigtails.

As far as I know, you can hook these up to their respective sensors and youll get working jeep gauges.

Ill call Novak tomorrow to see if they can confirm this as ive heard you have to "excite" the jeep computer with a cam sensor signal and other stuff. So we will see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #893 ·
So! just spoke with Novak about the gauges.

The jeep needs some sort of signal from the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor for the gauges to "Excite" The Emulator that they sell and use to make the tachometer function produces this signal. So if I buy the emulator, the stock gauges will work. Without the "signal" from the crank and cam sensors to the jeep computer, none of the gauges will work.

He mentioned combing through ls1tech.com to see how other people get the gauges to work without the emulator if I wanted to buy the emulator to make the tach work, later.

So, looks like ill buy the emulator?
 

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Okay guys, here's an update. I did some cleaning up of some wiring. I wired the GREEN wire from the dash panel air conditioning to the blue wire with a orange tracer that runs to the air conditioning relay.

As it was, the jeep PCM needed two grounds, one from the air conditioning switch on the dash and one wired though the air conditioning pressure switches. Once these two grounds were produced, the PCM would send a ground signal to the blue wire with an orange tracer.

By splicing the two wires, this bypasses the jeep PCM. The Novak harness sends power through the pressure sensors then to the compressor. So everything is still working as the factory wanted it.
Glad to see you're back at it Jon. Believe me, I know exactly how you feel about getting frustrated. I get there too...more than I should, I suspect.

That's good info about the AC wiring. I wired up mine similarly, but I haven't been able to try it yet. The body is off awaiting the painter to give me the green light to take it to him.

So! just spoke with Novak about the gauges.

The jeep needs some sort of signal from the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor for the gauges to "Excite" The Emulator that they sell and use to make the tachometer function produces this signal. So if I buy the emulator, the stock gauges will work. Without the "signal" from the crank and cam sensors to the jeep computer, none of the gauges will work.

He mentioned combing through ls1tech.com to see how other people get the gauges to work without the emulator if I wanted to buy the emulator to make the tach work, later.

So, looks like ill buy the emulator?
I am very interested to see if you get all your gauges to work.

Tried to drive the jeep, wouldn't move. I'll be taking off the transfer case. I think it's not engaging correctly.
The Jeep started, but wouldn't go in gear? I can't remember which TC you have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #896 ·
To elaborate a little, my transfer case, the np241c might be bad?

My house was in danger of flooding (eek) and since I don't have insurance on the jeep, that was high priority to get it moving. Since it ran, I put it in drive and tried to go, but it wouldnt! Nada. Reverse backed the jeep up about 2 inches, but that's about it. I was pretty stumped and put the trans back in park. When I put it back in park, it grinded. After some research, the grinding noise was the parking pawl. If you've ever still been rolling and you put your car in park, you know the sound.

After a little more research, this meant that the transmission was working and that there output shaft was spinning, hence the grinding. So my problem lies between the transfer case and the rear axle.

If I switch the transfer case back and fourth between the four gears, the front and rear yoke spin when they should and don't spin when they shouldnt.. so I'm going to do some testing in the next few days to see if I can figure it out. I'm going to try to run just the front drive shaft in four wheel drive, video the rear drive shaft to see if it's spinning and the axle isnt turning, so on, so fourth. I'll let you guys know what I find..

Last, but not least, I tried to crank it today and it gave me fits like it has in the past. I Googled a little bit and ran across this thread...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1883218-first-ls-swap-jeep-won-t-stay-running.html
Where the guy has the EXACT and I mean EXACT same problem as me. A bad ground to the PCM was his problem. This confirms why it ran after connecting that ground. So I'm going to go through and really freshen up those ground spots and see if we can get some drive train diagnostics done!
 

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To elaborate a little, my transfer case, the np241c might be bad?

My house was in danger of flooding (eek) and since I don't have insurance on the jeep, that was high priority to get it moving. Since it ran, I put it in drive and tried to go, but it wouldn't! Nada. Reverse backed the jeep up about 2 inches, but that's about it. I was pretty stumped and put the trans back in park. When I put it back in park, it grinded. After some research, the grinding noise was the parking pawl. If you've ever still been rolling and you put your car in park, you know the sound.

After a little more research, this meant that the transmission was working and that there output shaft was spinning, hence the grinding. So my problem lies between the transfer case and the rear axle.

If I switch the transfer case back and fourth between the four gears, the front and rear yoke spin when they should and don't spin when they shouldn't.. so I'm going to do some testing in the next few days to see if I can figure it out. I'm going to try to run just the front drive shaft in four wheel drive, video the rear drive shaft to see if it's spinning and the axle isn't turning, so on, so fourth. I'll let you guys know what I find..

Last, but not least, I tried to crank it today and it gave me fits like it has in the past. I Googled a little bit and ran across this thread...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1883218-first-ls-swap-jeep-won-t-stay-running.html
Where the guy has the EXACT and I mean EXACT same problem as me. A bad ground to the PCM was his problem. This confirms why it ran after connecting that ground. So I'm going to go through and really freshen up those ground spots and see if we can get some drive train diagnostics done!
I believe the NP241c has a different shift pattern than the NP231. Could that have anything to do with it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #898 ·
I believe the NP241c has a different shift pattern than the NP231. Could that have anything to do with it?
You're right. I knew that it did, if you're looking at the lever, from front postion to back would be 4L, N, 2H, 4H. so it would be backwards if you're looking at the actual lever on the transfer case. I'm definitely going to look and make sure I wasn't in Neutral when i thought i was in 2H. :mooning:
 

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Discussion Starter · #899 ·
Started twice after some persuasion, then died when the RPMS started to go down to idle. I connected 's ground strap from the engine to the grounding bolt on the body if the jeep. And that's what I got...guess I've got to do more tracing. I'm at a loss.
 
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