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If you have a 50" led light light bar then I am sure you have or are currently experiencing the whistle noise that accompanies it. So here is the reason it happens and the $5.00 dollar fix to solve it. First I want to thank "Sincityjets" for his help and assistance it tracking down the cause of the wind noise!.

First why is the noise occurring!

After a lot of trial and error and some basic engineering principles it was determined that the wind being forced up the windshield was blowing across the 5 flat fins on the back of the light bar. This was creating the same effect as blowing across the top of a coke bottle to make it whistle.

To prove this point Sincityjets taped the 5 fins and the noise went away. So the issue becomes how to break up the air blowing across the 5 fins.

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So here is the 5 dollar fix, this is standard door insulation from lowes or Home Depot


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You remove the the sticky tape and insert half of it I to the bottom of the flat fins like shown


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Another view


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And another view.

After words , just rotate it into place and the wind noise will be gone for ever! The insulation breaks up the air and prevents it from causing the whistling noise.

We hope this helps!
 

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Thanks for posting this. This fix is worth $500 to get rid of the whistle!!

Like DF said, I just put blue painters tape all the way across the back of those 5 fins, but this solution is better looking and longer lasting. That 50" light bar is cool, but that whistle sounds like a ghost from the Grudge is following you everywhere you go (over 40mph) :)
 

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I was about to post a very similar response. That noise has killed me for a few weeks. I knew it was coming from the light bar and verified it when I reached over the windshield while driving the other day to grab the fins. Whistle stopped!! My plan today was actually going to HD to look for something that would prohibit resonance from the fins or force the wind past the fins. Looks like my shopping trip was easily cut in half!!

Thanks Darkfire and Sincityjets
 

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I actually cut pieces of foam and inserted them into the fins. Each piece about an inch or so long, about every 6-10" ... best part is it was free... came in the box with the light! haha.
 

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Just fyi. If u have a rigid 50", they'll send u a pack of isolators free.
 

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4 rows of door insulation for good measure :) I have a headache just thinking about that whistling noise lol. Hopefully this will do the trick. Cheers!

Darkfire: you should really let me but you a beer or three! You have some kickass posts that I really appreciate! PM me your PayPal ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
4 rows of door insulation for good measure :) I have a headache just thinking about that whistling noise lol. Hopefully this will do the trick. Cheers!

Darkfire: you should really let me but you a beer or three! You have some kickass posts that I really appreciate! PM me your PayPal ;)
Thanks but save your money I want you to finish that Damm LS motor swap ;-)
 

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You can also tilt the light slightly upward. The more the light is tilted downward the louder the whistle.
It only needs to be tilted upward a little off of horizontal.
I would assume that the body of the light is finned to dissipate heat. Probably stuffing insulation in between the fins may not be a real good idea. Possibly ok for using the light in a short duration, but in a prolonged lighting situation when the jeep is not moving and no airflow is cooling the light, could damage the light.
 

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You can also tilt the light slightly upward. The more the light is tilted downward the louder the whistle.
It only needs to be tilted upward a little off of horizontal.
I would assume that the body of the light is finned to dissipate heat. Probably stuffing insulation in between the fins may not be a real good idea. Possibly ok for using the light in a short duration, but in a prolonged lighting situation when the jeep is not moving and no airflow is cooling the light, could damage the light.
I didnt stuff them. They are attached with 3M adhesive to the last 1/4" of the bottom side of the fins. There will plenty of room to dissipate heat.
 

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My bad. Good deal.
Tilt thing works good too.
All good buddy...

The tilt thing... I couldn't figure why the hell my bar whistled so much after i remounted it. Come to think i had it aimed down way to far and the damn thing sounds like a high pitch train horn around 40 mph. Good stuff lol. Enough to piss a guy off in 2 seconds.

Pays over $1K for lightbar that whistles like a mofo! Yeah not cool LOL.

Anyways... Since i added the insulation strips, ABSOLUTELY ZERO WHISTLE!


:iamhappy:
 

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You can also tilt the light slightly upward. The more the light is tilted downward the louder the whistle.
It only needs to be tilted upward a little off of horizontal.
I would assume that the body of the light is finned to dissipate heat. Probably stuffing insulation in between the fins may not be a real good idea. Possibly ok for using the light in a short duration, but in a prolonged lighting situation when the jeep is not moving and no airflow is cooling the light, could damage the light.

Correct the body of the led is finned to draw out heat from the light source and dissipate. (the heat) I am thinking that the led light bar engineers would have added insulation if it would not interfere with cooling fins. It seems if they are wrapped or blocked the fins might not be able to cool down. I guess as long as the light bar can still cool down it should work.

It will be interesting to see how this works out over time or if the light bar heats up over hours of use. It may work out great...only time will tell.
I passed on the 50" light bar due to whistling and wind noise complaints. I went with ARB Intensity LEDs on the front bumper. One spot one flood..love em.:happyyes:
 

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Correct the body of the led is finned to draw out heat from the light source and dissipate. (the heat) I am thinking that the led light bar engineers would have added insulation if it would not interfere with cooling fins. It seems if they are wrapped or blocked the fins might not be able to cool down. I guess as long as the light bar can still cool down it should work.

It will be interesting to see how this works out over time or if the light bar heats up over hours of use. It may work out great...only time will tell.
I passed on the 50" light bar due to whistling and wind noise complaints. I went with ARB Intensity LEDs on the front bumper. One spot one flood..love em.:happyyes:
I literally have zero whistle anymore! Time will tell. I can't imagine having heat issues. There are still 7 fins that have nothing on them at all and the four that do are just covered 1/4" or less on 1 side.
 

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All good buddy...

The tilt thing... I couldn't figure why the hell my bar whistled so much after i remounted it. Come to think i had it aimed down way to far and the damn thing sounds like a high pitch train horn around 40 mph. Good stuff lol. Enough to piss a guy off in 2 seconds.

Pays over $1K for lightbar that whistles like a mofo! Yeah not cool LOL.

Anyways... Since i added the insulation strips, ABSOLUTELY ZERO WHISTLE!


:iamhappy:
And a soft top doesn't muffle the whistle very much either.
The bar makes the soft top flutter against the interior sound bar at 45 mph. So I stuffed a folded towel between the bar and the top. Lol, that made the passenger side window flap against the bow that runs up the window. :banghead:
So I put thick neoprene pipe insulation over that, better but still noisy, so now there's sheep skin seatbelt covers over the insulation and hallelujah! It's a success.

I'm sure there's not much chance of your light overheating in Minnesota. :D
 

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there's sheep skin seatbelt covers over the insulation and hallelujah! It's a success
Hahahaha! I feel your pain! Its a jeep. Modifying like a boss! Hahahaha!


I'm sure there's not much chance of your light overheating in Minnesota
Minnesota... Overheat? LOL! Whats heat?
 

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And a soft top doesn't muffle the whistle very much either.
The bar makes the soft top flutter against the interior sound bar at 45 mph. So I stuffed a folded towel between the bar and the top. Lol, that made the passenger side window flap against the bow that runs up the window. :banghead:
So I put thick neoprene pipe insulation over that, better but still noisy, so now there's sheep skin seatbelt covers over the insulation and hallelujah! It's a success.

I'm sure there's not much chance of your light overheating in Minnesota. :D
I tried the door insulation and it worked.....for about 2 months until it froze and delamed. So I tried clear silicone in alternating 10" strips. Works great and still allows cooling.
 
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