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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought a Coachmen Clipper 17FQ today, totally matches what I was looking for and my JKU's capabilities.

I have the tow package and 4-pin connector but need to install a 7 pin and brake controller.

What would anyone recommend for:

1. 7-pin adapter/modification
2. A decent brake controller (and where to wire it in?)
3. A weight distributing hitch

I'm picking it up in a couple of weeks so I have time to install the 7 pin connector and brake controller. Want to have brakes working even if I'm just pulling it home but I think I can wait to install the WD hitch?
 

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Also check with the retailer selling the trailer. Most offer a one stop service. Or at least work with a shop who can do all the support work.
 

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Bought a Coachmen Clipper 17FQ today, totally matches what I was looking for and my JKU's capabilities.

I have the tow package and 4-pin connector but need to install a 7 pin and brake controller.

What would anyone recommend for:

1. 7-pin adapter/modification
2. A decent brake controller (and where to wire it in?)
3. A weight distributing hitch

I'm picking it up in a couple of weeks so I have time to install the 7 pin connector and brake controller. Want to have brakes working even if I'm just pulling it home but I think I can wait to install the WD hitch?
Etrailer is a great source for the parts/kits youll need to add wiring for the 7 pin, and the controller also. Tekonsha is a good brand and they have varying levels of fancy, but anything more than a P2 is overkill.

Also, the distribution hitch may not be needed depending on tongue weight.
 

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Nice Layout. Big bath. Big bed. Lots of room.
 

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I use a WD hitch on a 40 foot trailer I pull with a 2500 Dodge. I do not need it for the weight distribution. I like it for the sway control.

You may not need the WD for the Jeep but might want to use it for sway control especially when being passed by a semi on an interstate highway.

My trailer is so small and low profile I do not need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Etrailer is a great source for the parts/kits youll need to add wiring for the 7 pin, and the controller also. Tekonsha is a good brand and they have varying levels of fancy, but anything more than a P2 is overkill.

Also, the distribution hitch may not be needed depending on tongue weight.
Thanks - I'm actually thinking about a wireless controller so we can switch between vehicles. Tekonsha has a nice one even if it is priced pretty high.

Tongue weight on this particular trailer is spec'd at 298 lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Also check with the retailer selling the trailer. Most offer a one stop service. Or at least work with a shop who can do all the support work.
They wanted $700 to install a cheap brake controller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nice Layout. Big bath. Big bed. Lots of room.
I looked at many different RV's that would meet Jeep tow specs (which narrows the field considerably) and still provide the basics we were looking for - walk around bed, large shower with separate toilet and a vanity with a sink, etc. Couldn't pass this one up for $10,995.
 

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Etrailer is also my online choice. 3 Vehicles and 13 years they never did me wrong. But local to me is the way to go. Anymore I am too old and broken to be crawling around. Plus I like the fact if something goes wrong, I have someone else to blame haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I use a WD hitch on a 40 foot trailer I pull with a 2500 Dodge. I do not need it for the weight distribution. I like it for the sway control.

You may not need the WD for the Jeep but might want to use it for sway control especially when being passed by a semi on an interstate highway.

My trailer is so small and low profile I do not need it.
I'll definitely get one but figured I'll be okay pulling it the 20 or so miles home without one.
 

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I have a curt WD hitch and a curt trailer brake controller on my superduty. No problems at all.

I had a very old trailer brake controller on the truck since I bought it. I never liked the way it would suddenly engage the brakes when braking. My new curt controller is much smoother. It feels more like the trailer brakes are supplementing the trucks brakes instead of being either on or off like the old one would.

The curt WD hitch has been great, I will never tow without one again. When you hit a dip in the road, instead of the trucks rear suspension dipping, the weight is split between all 8 tires. It just drives a lot better.
 

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Bought a Coachmen Clipper 17FQ today, totally matches what I was looking for and my JKU's capabilities.

I have the tow package and 4-pin connector but need to install a 7 pin and brake controller.

What would anyone recommend for:

1. 7-pin adapter/modification
2. A decent brake controller (and where to wire it in?)
3. A weight distributing hitch

I'm picking it up in a couple of weeks so I have time to install the 7 pin connector and brake controller. Want to have brakes working even if I'm just pulling it home but I think I can wait to install the WD hitch?

Upgrade to the MOPAR 7 pin connector, it comes with the blue wire for the electric brake. It is not a difficult self-install at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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Thanks - I was actually thinking of replacing the existing 4 pin with this $20 setup:

Combo 4 Pin / 7 Pin Adapter
Thats what I use. Very convenient when switching back to a regular small trailer. I got it mounted as tight as it can be to the bumper by flipping the "L" bracket it came with side ways, with the short part of the "L" facing the front of the Jeep. The whole thing then bolts to original 4 pin mount for a no drill install.

I chose to mount the controller under the steering column. I did it by removing the panel and dropping flush mount screws down through the panel. Do NOT send screws up into this area, very tight fit!

You'll have firewall access near the side panel that comes off the dash, and if youre patient you can run the wiring to the back through much more of the frame than even the "pros" do on the videos on Etrailer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thats what I use. Very convenient when switching back to a regular small trailer. I got it mounted as tight as it can be to the bumper by flipping the "L" bracket it came with side ways, with the short part of the "L" facing the front of the Jeep. The whole thing then bolts to original 4 pin mount for a no drill install.

I chose to mount the controller under the steering column. I did it by removing the panel and dropping flush mount screws down through the panel. Do NOT send screws up into this area, very tight fit!

You'll have firewall access near the side panel that comes off the dash, and if youre patient you can run the wiring to the back through much more of the frame than even the "pros" do on the videos on Etrailer.
That's exactly how I was thinking of doing it, and for the wire path from the brake controller / battery / brake sense, I'm thinking of cutting the ends off a 25' black outdoor 12ga extension cord. That would give me 3 #12 conductors - one from battery, one from the brake controller to the trailer, and one from the stop light wire on the trailer connector to the brake controller. $20 bucks for the wire, $20 for the 7/4 pin connector, and $43 for a CURT 51120 Discovery Brake Controller and I should be good to go for $83!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

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I followed a YouTube video to install mine and worked great. After a year I developed crazy dashboard light problems. A search on this forum helped me trace it to a loose connection to the controller. Went back and changed the crimp connectors to solder and problem solved. Make good connections everywhere.
 

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Thanks - I was actually thinking of replacing the existing 4 pin with this $20 setup:

Combo 4 Pin / 7 Pin Adapter
The MOPAR 7 pin harness kit is a complete harness that works with the CANBUs - so no issues.

I ran a fish tape through the frame and actually pulled my harness inside the frame from back to front so I wouldn't have to zip-tie wrap it.
 

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The 7-pin connector others have posted is as good as any. Stick with the Prodigy brake controllers. Any of them are good....no need to go with the most current generation. As far was weight distribution, you don't need much. You are limited to a light weight setup like this one since the trailer doesn't have much tongue weight to begin with: Reese - Light-Duty WD

I'm guessing that trailer only has 300 lbs. of tongue weight. For comparison, most 30' travel trailers are closer to 1000 lbs.
 
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