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I'm told its typical of this transmission, and that I have to take the boot off, then unbolt the shifter housing to reset the syncros to fix it. But what causes this to happen in the first place? Is it a worn bushing, a bad spring holding it in place, etc? I'd like to fix it so it doesn't happen again, (because I'm told it will happen again?) If I'm going to tear it apart to fix it so it'll drive again, I'd like to fix it right while I'm in there. any help would be appreciated, I'd like to not have to change my drivetrain to a different transmission, cant afford it right now and I'm not ready to put a SBC in it yet.
 

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I didn't know it was common. When it happened to me I assumed I broke the shift fork and found a transmission in a junkyard and threw it in.
 

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I'm not sure if what's happening to your trans is easy to fix or not. What I suggest is that it's not working now, so what do you have to loose by fiddling with it.
You have to remove the shifter knob and the inner & outer shifter boots. There's a lock nut that holds the knob in place. Looking at the knob from the top, you need to turn the lock nut clockwise.
With the rubber boots out of the way there might be a lock ring holding the shifter shaft into the transmission or a plate with 3 or 4 bolts. I don't remember which.
When you have the shifter shaft out of the transmission, look for an upper and lower bushing. IIRC, they're plastic and might be the cause of your transmission sticking in gear.

Let us know what you find.

Good luck, L.M.
 

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BA10's can have the snap ring or the plate bolted down holding the shifter in.
I think older ones have the snap ring. I think mine with a ring had 1985 castings on it.

They only have the one big plastic bushing the ball rides ontop of, there are steel plates that act as springs on the top of the ball.


When mine was stuck in gear my stick acted like it was in neutral, and when I took the rear housing off I was able to shift into neutral then the transmission acted normally.
I assume you could do it from the topside with a screw driver and some fiddling too.
 

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The BA10 is classed as a light duty transmission. If a guy bought a 1987 YJ brand new and babied it, the transmission would probably last the life of the vehicle.
The problems start when we work our Wranglers. What really kills the BA10 is winding out in first gear and grabbing second gear. Not having the clutch all the way to the floor exacerbates the damage. The tips of the teeth on the syncros get bashed and that leads to hard shifts into second gear.
Slamming the shifter into any gear wears and may damage the plastic bushing that may be the cause of OPs problem.
Without being there and seeing just what it feels like and looks like it's hard to say any more.

Often times mechanical things are called junk because of a drivers (or usually the PO's) bad habits.
BA10s are light duty transmissions. If you need a sturdier transmission to cure a fault in a BA10, replacing it with an AX15 is the most practical cure. If you're short on dough, a BA10 can sometimes be had for free or at most, a very reasonable price.
Once I have my AX15 installed, I'd give my old BA10 away for free. (Don't ask, it's going to be a while).

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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The BA10 is classed as a light duty transmission. If a guy bought a 1987 YJ brand new and babied it, the transmission would probably last the life of the vehicle.
The problems start when we work our Wranglers. What really kills the BA10 is winding out in first gear and grabbing second gear. Not having the clutch all the way to the floor exacerbates the damage. The tips of the teeth on the syncros get bashed and that leads to hard shifts into second gear.
Slamming the shifter into any gear wears and may damage the plastic bushing that may be the cause of OPs problem.
Without being there and seeing just what it feels like and looks like it's hard to say any more.

Often times mechanical things are called junk because of a drivers (or usually the PO's) bad habits.
BA10s are light duty transmissions. If you need a sturdier transmission to cure a fault in a BA10, replacing it with an AX15 is the most practical cure. If you're short on dough, a BA10 can sometimes be had for free or at most, a very reasonable price.
Once I have my AX15 installed, I'd give my old BA10 away for free. (Don't ask, it's going to be a while).

Good Luck, L.M.
Anybody who wants to make the drive to phoenix can came get mine out of the garage almost anytime, after my AX-15 swap I'll never go back
 

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Well Seth, It's a 1874 mile trip and Google maps states it'll take 28 hours.
Not really worth the gas, and certainly not worth the time. Plus two nights on the road at $100.00 per night at a mid-price motel.

Maybe someone in Ohio has a usable BA10 that they'll let go for free or cheap.
OP has over 15 posts, he can post in the Wrangler Forum classifieds under "Wanted". Be sure to enter your state. I think Craigslist auto parts listings are still free.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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I'm told its typical of this transmission, and that I have to take the boot off, then unbolt the shifter housing to reset the syncros to fix it. But what causes this to happen in the first place? Is it a worn bushing, a bad spring holding it in place, etc? I'd like to fix it so it doesn't happen again, (because I'm told it will happen again?) If I'm going to tear it apart to fix it so it'll drive again, I'd like to fix it right while I'm in there. any help would be appreciated, I'd like to not have to change my drivetrain to a different transmission, cant afford it right now and I'm not ready to put a SBC in it yet.
I have the same trans, and similar issues. Mine gets stuck in 1st gear at really random times. The last two times I just park the jeep and leave in in 1st so it wont roll. Then I go out to drive it the next day and its stuck in first gear. Now that its happened 3 times its super easy for me to fix. I pull the shifter out and then use a screw driver to push a bar forward. There is a little alignment pin thats for the shifter. I use that as the pivot point. I put my screw driver down the hole with the back of it on that pin then pull the screw driver back pushing some tab forward and then its good.
But...there has to be a real fix for this. I just can't figure out if the shifter rod is just worn out, of it ifs the slide things I'm moving to fix it. I wish I could find an aftermarket new shifter to see it that would fix it, but I can't find any on line for this trans. Probably because it was made for such a short time. Other than that its a fine transmission as far as I go.
 

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I have the same trans, and similar issues. Mine gets stuck in 1st gear at really random times. The last two times I just park the jeep and leave in in 1st so it wont roll. Then I go out to drive it the next day and its stuck in first gear. Now that its happened 3 times its super easy for me to fix. I pull the shifter out and then use a screw driver to push a bar forward. There is a little alignment pin thats for the shifter. I use that as the pivot point. I put my screw driver down the hole with the back of it on that pin then pull the screw driver back pushing some tab forward and then its good.
But...there has to be a real fix for this. I just can't figure out if the shifter rod is just worn out, of it ifs the slide things I'm moving to fix it. I wish I could find an aftermarket new shifter to see it that would fix it, but I can't find any on line for this trans. Probably because it was made for such a short time. Other than that its a fine transmission as far as I go.
Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.
 
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