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I just recently came into the position of my brothers 1988 Jeep YJ. I have owned 2 Jeeps because of my love for this one so it is a dream come true to have this in my possession. He became busy with work and kids and no longer had time to work on it or drive it so he gave it to me (After it sitting for 10 years). Anyway, he had pulled the stock 4.2 and put in a 94 mustang 302 HO with a Tremec T5 racing trans. The jeep runs and drives but is in dire need of some TLC. There are also some loose ends that need to be tied up from the engine swap like drive line vibrations. I have started what I consider to be a solid restoration, sanding down the frame, POR-15, lift, sye kit, new anything rusty, and a new paint job. Here are some pics of what I have done so far. I am still trying to figure out everything that he did with the motor. It was so long ago even he doesn't remember.
 

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The first thing I wanted to do was remove the front clip and start stripping the hood. It has been painted several times and I have a guy that does all of my body work and paint for me after I get parts stripped.
 

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After I got the hood and front clip off to my buddy I focused my efforts on wire brushing the frame and applying POR-15. Here are some pics of me rinsing the front half of the frame after using Metal Prep.
 

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After I applied the POR-15 to the front half of the frame and the front axle, I put on the new Zone 2 inch lift and put the front axle back under the jeep. I also wanted to make sure that the brake lines were long enough.
 

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Not sure how I feel about it myself but at this point I have no choice but to embrace it. At least it sounds good!
 

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Nice project. How does that POR-15 work on your Jeep? Is it easy to paint over it after it's applied? I've never used it before..
 

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Nice project. How does that POR-15 work on your Jeep? Is it easy to paint over it after it's applied? I've never used it before..
I followed the process recommended by POR 15 to a t because I have heard people have had bad results with it peeling off. In my opinion this stuff is great it just comes down to how well you prep it. I sprayed everything with rustoleum while the POR was still tacky so that the top coat had better adhesion.
 

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There are very specific steps that need to be followed for POR 15 to work correctly. I took short cuts on the Jeep and the results showed that. I used it again on my truck build with much better results. Bare clean metal must be prepped with their Metal Prep product or it will not stick. The top coat must be applied in a pretty specific time window or it will not adhere. If you follow the rules it is great.
 

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Ditto on the Por 15, my firebird was a magazine guinea pig for the product when it first came out, and following the directions is key. I honestly feel that it's best on crusty rusty work and not quite worth the effort and expense if you have good clean metal throughout. Your picture of the draped plastic brought back some old memories, same catch method i used with it on the interior of my car. Peeked in to check on it after getting the acid flowing throughout and caught 1 drip off the double-panel roof in my eye, got in in the gap at the corner of my "safety" glasses. spent the days with an eye-flush in the hospital.

Ignore the naysayers on the Ford power--- I'm not a Ford person per se either, but a 5.0 roller motor is a great choice. plenty of parts choices to put the power range where you want it.
 

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Ignore the naysayers on the Ford power--- I'm not a Ford person per se either, but a 5.0 roller motor is a great choice. plenty of parts choices to put the power range where you want it.
All in fun my friend. Chevy guys have to pick on Ford guys.... that's just how it works. :beerdrinking:
 

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[QUOTE="X-Bird;32755761"Ignore the naysayers on the Ford power--- I'm not a Ford person per se either, but a 5.0 roller motor is a great choice. plenty of parts choices to put the power range where you want it.[/QUOTE]

I had the 5.0 roller cam engine in an old 72 bronco I rebuilt. It's a really good engine, but to get the max from it you need the computer controlled fuel injection. Since I didn't want to go that route, I actually swapped it out for a 351 W. Only other issue with it is that every part seems to be $50 bucks more than the same part for a Chevy 350s. That can impact your beer money....
 

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It has been a while since I have had time to work on the Jeep but I am now fully back into the restoration. A few things have been completed including the new side panel install, Edlebrock ProFlo4 EFI and tub removal. Here are a few pics of the progress. There is still a tremendous amount of work left but I am enjoying the build.
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After installing the new EFI the motor was making some strange knocking noises most likely from it sitting for 10 plus years without running. Surprisingly a reman longblock from Blueprint Engines through Summit Racing was only 1800 shipped. So the new engine arrived in two days and is sitting in the crate ready to be put in. My plans moving forward are to swap in the new motor, fix a few rust areas on the tub and coat with DTM epoxy, sye kit, new driveshaft, clean out and re install the fuel tank. I am also considering an 8.8 swap. Set the tub back on and hand off to my buddy to complete the body work and paint.
 

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The first thing I wanted to do was remove the front clip and start stripping the hood. It has been painted several times and I have a guy that does all of my body work and paint for me after I get parts stripped.
UGG! I hate paint stripper. I have my stuff media blasted or sandblasted. Yeah, it costs a lot more, but I hate paint stripper that much.
I started in the body business as a helper so many years ago. That's what helpers did, sand, strip, mask and all the crappy work. I worked hard to become a journeyman so that i wouldn't have to do that sort of stuff.

I suppose if you haven't had to do it for a living, it's not too bad. I'm replacing my axles and I had the replacement (used 4:10) axles sandblasted before I painted them.
Pics are from 6 years ago when I first got my old heap.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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