Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
All,
New to the forum and jeep ownership. I have an 89 YJ, approx 159K miles, 2.5L 4 cylinder. I've had the jeep for a couple of weeks and have noticed more oil leaking issues as I've driven it more and it riding more rough. I picked up a Haynes manual and working through trouble shooting. is there a good thread or resource on this forum to help accelerate trouble shooting? Looking for any input.. I'm ok with basic car maintenance but definitely on the learning curve for everything else. Thanks in advance and see below on more details.


I’ve bee chasing some oil leaks and dealing with the engine that “lopes” while idling sometimes.. not always?. I also have some oil in the air filter housing.

Work I’ve done to date:
Changed out the fuel filter
Replaced the Air Filter
Checked PCV valve (which is good) but I have a new one just in case
Swapping out cracked vacuum tubes- - this is a work in progress and have more work to do..any good resources for finding OEM connectors?
Replaced the Valve Cover Gasket (which was leaking)
Have ordered PCV grommet replacements (both look like they’re disintegrating and causing some oil spray when running)

I’ve included some pics looking for advice:

Air Filter housing showing the oil.. I’ve cleaned it out, replaced the tubing that connected it.. worried about blow by

Second Pic - The Haynes manual calls this the “PCV air out valve” do you know what it does? I want to replace it but can’t find any part by that name? the grommet has been hard to find as well, but I’m hoping I ordered the correct one from quadratec…

I have found several vacuum and a few electrical lines not connected to anything.. it seems like the vacuum lines are sucking air when the motors running so it seems a contributor to the loping? Any thoughts on how to track these down?

Thanks all, appreciate you helping a newbie out!




Oil in Air Filter housing.jpg PCV Air in valve.jpg Not connected vacuum line.jpg not connected electrical line.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
All,
New to the forum and jeep ownership. I have an 89 YJ, approx 159K miles, 2.5L 4 cylinder. I've had the jeep for a couple of weeks and have noticed more oil leaking issues as I've driven it more and it riding more rough. I picked up a Haynes manual and working through trouble shooting. is there a good thread or resource on this forum to help accelerate trouble shooting? Looking for any input.. I'm ok with basic car maintenance but definitely on the learning curve for everything else. Thanks in advance and see below on more details.


I’ve bee chasing some oil leaks and dealing with the engine that “lopes” while idling sometimes.. not always?. I also have some oil in the air filter housing.

Work I’ve done to date:
Changed out the fuel filter
Replaced the Air Filter
Checked PCV valve (which is good) but I have a new one just in case
Swapping out cracked vacuum tubes- - this is a work in progress and have more work to do..any good resources for finding OEM connectors?
Replaced the Valve Cover Gasket (which was leaking)
Have ordered PCV grommet replacements (both look like they’re disintegrating and causing some oil spray when running)

I’ve included some pics looking for advice:

Air Filter housing showing the oil.. I’ve cleaned it out, replaced the tubing that connected it.. worried about blow by

Second Pic - The Haynes manual calls this the “PCV air out valve” do you know what it does? I want to replace it but can’t find any part by that name? the grommet has been hard to find as well, but I’m hoping I ordered the correct one from quadratec…

I have found several vacuum and a few electrical lines not connected to anything.. it seems like the vacuum lines are sucking air when the motors running so it seems a contributor to the loping? Any thoughts on how to track these down?

Thanks all, appreciate you helping a newbie out!




View attachment 4443407 View attachment 4443408 View attachment 4443409 View attachment 4443410
All,
New to the forum and jeep ownership. I have an 89 YJ, approx 159K miles, 2.5L 4 cylinder. I've had the jeep for a couple of weeks and have noticed more oil leaking issues as I've driven it more and it riding more rough. I picked up a Haynes manual and working through trouble shooting. is there a good thread or resource on this forum to help accelerate trouble shooting? Looking for any input.. I'm ok with basic car maintenance but definitely on the learning curve for everything else. Thanks in advance and see below on more details.


I’ve bee chasing some oil leaks and dealing with the engine that “lopes” while idling sometimes.. not always?. I also have some oil in the air filter housing.

Work I’ve done to date:
Changed out the fuel filter
Replaced the Air Filter
Checked PCV valve (which is good) but I have a new one just in case
Swapping out cracked vacuum tubes- - this is a work in progress and have more work to do..any good resources for finding OEM connectors?
Replaced the Valve Cover Gasket (which was leaking)
Have ordered PCV grommet replacements (both look like they’re disintegrating and causing some oil spray when running)

I’ve included some pics looking for advice:

Air Filter housing showing the oil.. I’ve cleaned it out, replaced the tubing that connected it.. worried about blow by

Second Pic - The Haynes manual calls this the “PCV air out valve” do you know what it does? I want to replace it but can’t find any part by that name? the grommet has been hard to find as well, but I’m hoping I ordered the correct one from quadratec…

I have found several vacuum and a few electrical lines not connected to anything.. it seems like the vacuum lines are sucking air when the motors running so it seems a contributor to the loping? Any thoughts on how to track these down?

Thanks all, appreciate you helping a newbie out!




View attachment 4443407 View attachment 4443408 View attachment 4443409 View attachment 4443410
With oil in the air cleaner box, I would run cylinder compression check. Blow-by is indicated. I had my engine rebuilt at 150k due to excessive blow-by.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Check the whole PCV system careful,, its got several places grunge can clog and it will suck oil in to the air cleaner.
I've run across a couple older YJ/CJ's where someone accidentally swapped the PCV and the breather hose. Thar will make it suck oil pretty bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
pic #3, the red plastic vac line, looks like that is the vac line to the transfer case switch. should be plugged into a manifold vacuum source. as it sits, that red line shouldn't be a vacuum leak, but wherever it should be plugged into very well could be a leak.
pic #4, mine has the same plug, never been plugged in, and no mating connection anywhere to be found. i read one this forum once that it part of the factory harness, but only used on A/C equipped models, mine has no A/C so that seemed plausible to me, and i left it alone.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Crozethenry

·
Registered
Joined
·
900 Posts
Here's a link to download Factory Service Manuals and Parts Manuals for your Jeep throw that Haynes manual in a deep dark hole.

 
  • Like
Reactions: Crozethenry

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,631 Posts
Here's a link to download Factory Service Manuals and Parts Manuals for your Jeep throw that Haynes manual in a deep dark hole.

Even a Chiltons manual is better than a Haynes, with the FSM being the best. One issue with the FSM is that it assumes the reader has a lot of mechanical experience. Also handy is UTUBE if you realize that almost all UTUBE videos are amateurs and there's a lot of misinformation and errors being promoted as fact.
Before I delve into a big project (like I'm currently looking to overhaul an AX15 transmission) I consult all 4. The Chiltons and Haynes only have remove and install an AX15 and you have to search to find the FSM version of how to overhaul an AX15 transmission. Sometimes even Googling your issue will give you hints on how to proceed.

As far as chasing oil leaks, the first thing to do is clean the engine and transmission/transfer case. I drive to the quarter car wash (now takes dollars) and give whatever might be leaking a good soaking with foamy engine cleaner. Be sure to bag the distributor and the alternator and tape them shut. Allow time for the engine cleaner to soak in and work.
Then, blast away with the high pressure and soap until you're happy with the results or soaked to the skin with backblast. I bring a piece of cardboard to lay on so that I can get a good shot at the underside.Try to stay away from critical running components.
Unbag the distributor and alternator and start the engine promptly. The engine should be dry once you've driven a couple or few miles. Then, keep an eye out for wherever the oil starts showing up.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Even a Chiltons manual is better than a Haynes, with the FSM being the best. One issue with the FSM is that it assumes the reader has a lot of mechanical experience. Also handy is UTUBE if you realize that almost all UTUBE videos are amateurs and there's a lot of misinformation and errors being promoted as fact.
Before I delve into a big project (like I'm currently looking to overhaul an AX15 transmission) I consult all 4. The Chiltons and Haynes only have remove and install an AX15 and you have to search to find the FSM version of how to overhaul an AX15 transmission. Sometimes even Googling your issue will give you hints on how to proceed.

As far as chasing oil leaks, the first thing to do is clean the engine and transmission/transfer case. I drive to the quarter car wash (now takes dollars) and give whatever might be leaking a good soaking with foamy engine cleaner. Be sure to bag the distributor and the alternator and tape them shut. Allow time for the engine cleaner to soak in and work.
Then, blast away with the high pressure and soap until you're happy with the results or soaked to the skin with backblast. I bring a piece of cardboard to lay on so that I can get a good shot at the underside.Try to stay away from critical running components.
Unbag the distributor and alternator and start the engine promptly. The engine should be dry once you've driven a couple or few miles. Then, keep an eye out for wherever the oil starts showing up.

Good Luck, L.M.
Thanks so much, very helpful input and guidance!!
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top