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Discussion Starter #1
My AX-15 died, with the help of some water intrusion, and I need to fix it. Problem is, people want way too much for that transmission and I always wanted to do the SBF conversion, so might as well do it now.

I picked up a 96 Ford Bronco for $500. Drove it 3 hours running 70-75 mph with no issues. Not a bad deal for $500.

I have already pulled the T-case and transmission from the donor. M5OD R2 (the Mazda 5-speed) paired to a BW 1356. The engine will probably get pulled this week, a 5.0. I also has a limited slip diff in the rear, so that will get pulled, inspected, rebuilt, and installed in the jeep's rear axle. Better than an open diff, for now.

So far I have found a few things that made the Bronco less than ideal, but nothing that makes me want to throw a wrench at it. The trans needs a new 1-2 shift fork and the input shaft has some wobble to it. Makes some bearing noise too. So it's getting a rebuild (might as well before I get everything in there).

The T-case is solid, no issues. The engine looks like it has been out before, but she ran very smooth. A bit light on power, but that's no issue for me. The emission components were hacked off, but that will get cleaned up. (no smog check where I live)

The immediate goal is to get everything in and operational quickly. It's dune season and I don't have a jeep running now, so I need to make it a quick turnaround so I can get out there before it gets hot. Summer it will get the engine redone so I can get some decent power to the tires and who knows what will be next. This Jeep will be a forever project :whistling:

Advice and pointers are most welcome!!
 

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I'll be keeping my eye on this for sure! A Bronco will probably be my next vehicle, that or a full size Blazer.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My buddy has a full size bronco. I like them as well but I prefer smaller vehicles, they just get around better.

This is the YJ that will be getting the 5.0, M5OD R2, BW 1356, and limited slip from the donor bronco
 

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I drove '96 bronco for 7 years before I wrecked it. I may be misremembering, but I thought that the 5.0 and 5 speed were discontinued in 1995 and only the 351/auto was available in 1996 because they were killing the bronco to introduce the expedition. Great drivetrain though!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I cannot say for sure that this drivetrain is OE, but the 96 models came with either the 5.0 or the 5.8 and M5OD R2 was the only manual option. There were two auto options. So far as I can tell it seems to be the OE drivetrain, but I'll have to look at the VIN to be sure. 96 was the last year though and it was killed to make way for the expedition, unfortunately
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got the 5.0 out, time to clean it up a bit and then to pull the drivetrain from the jeep
 

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I cannot say for sure that this drivetrain is OE, but the 96 models came with either the 5.0 or the 5.8 and M5OD R2 was the only manual option. There were two auto options. So far as I can tell it seems to be the OE drivetrain, but I'll have to look at the VIN to be sure. 96 was the last year though and it was killed to make way for the expedition, unfortunately
I bought the last new bronco off the lot from my local dealership and drove it for 6 years before wrecking it. I loved that truck. Good luck with the swap! :happyyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Finally got the Jeep's transmission and t-case out. The shifter seal was toast, so now I know where I was getting water into it... Oh well. So, anyone need a t-case or 4.0?

On another note, I noticed a while back that my winch was loose. I finally puled it and found out why. There was only one bolt left that was actually holding. I'm going to need to cut out the broken areas and weld in some new steel. I plan on making a new bumper and winch plate that will incorporate some towing eyes for a tow bar and shackles for recovery. Ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That looks very tough and rugged, I like it. How did you mount it to the frame? Did you weld it to the frame or is it bolted in?
 

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That looks very tough and rugged, I like it. How did you mount it to the frame? Did you weld it to the frame or is it bolted in?
I actually had some pretty significant frame repair to do. It looked like there was metal there, but I wanted to make sure it was strong. It turned out to be paper thin, so I repaired it. I don't have the skills to make it like the original frame was, in order to bolt it on, so I welded the bumper on.

So far I've winched myself up rocks twice, and winched a Cadillac Escalade up a steep hill.. No bends.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Mudmagnet, you have given me some ideas

I finally got the 4.0 out and the 5.0 and M5OD in place. The clearances look better than I could have hoped, so :iamhappy:

I think I will bring it forward about 2 inches and center is a bit more. My limit for that will mostly be the power steering pump touching the steering shaft. Might have to bring it up an inch too. I would like to have it as low and far back as possible, but that might make for too short of a driveshaft. Ideally I would go ahead and push the rear axle out, but that would extend the project time. I'm thinking I will make the new engine x-member with provisions for relocating the engine later down the road if I find that I'm not happy with it. Another thing is the oil filter will probably need to be relocated, which really won't be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow, I guess it has been nearly a month since I updated this. I'll have to add some new picks when I get the chance.

I have the engine, trans, and TC installed. I fabbed up a cross member for the 5.0 and made it adaptable to the factory ford mounts. Welded it to the Jeep's frame once I checked all of my clearances. The factory Jeep skid plate/trans cross member bolted up, mostly. Just had to add a slot to where the original trans mount went in. The ford mount has a wider bolt pattern and larger studs. Still has the 2" lowering spacers between the frame and skid plate, but those will get eliminated once the body lift gets put in. I think. I'm mostly happy with it, but the new length plus the size of the TC makes a 2" body lift required. Not a fan of body lifts, but cutting out the jeep tub is not something I want to do. I will have to extend the rear axle out a bit. I'm thinking of getting some 84-88 Toyota pick-up or 4 runner leafs. They have a center pin that would push the axle back 5" but their overall length is only about 2" longer. We'll see if it works. Then I'll have to figure out what to do with the gas tank.

On another note, the VSS might be a little more trouble than I had hoped. The Ford uses a reed switch and the Jeep uses a hall effect pickup. That means I have a square wave VSS and a sine wave speedo. Not sure how I will address that... yet. Bonus though, the 8.8 that was already in my jeep has the VSS in place. Ford used the rear diff VSS, none in the TC, for the 96 Bronco's speedo and ecu speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wires EveryWhere!!

My progress has not been as forthcoming as I had hoped, but it is getting there. I got the wire harness done, what a relief. That was one hell of a thing to do. I ended up putting in the 2" body lift and got rid of the spacers that lowered the skid plate, looks so much better. T-case clears the tub by about .12". I still have a large punch list of things to do before I take it to my friend's shop for drive shafts and exhaust, but hopefully I'll get that done this weekend. I still need to sort out the speedo and tach. Not sure if the Ford components will work with the Jeep gauges. I know the oil sending unit won't, the Ford one is an on/off switch that activates at 6-8 psi. Lame. But easy fix. Now for a few progress pics
 

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Looking good so far! The M5OD just seems like too long of a transmission to me for a wrangler. I'm curious to know if the driveline angles cause vibrations or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Looking good so far! The M5OD just seems like too long of a transmission to me for a wrangler. I'm curious to know if the driveline angles cause vibrations or not.

It will be a challenge, the M5OD is 4.5" longer, but the engine is also 2" shorter (from drivebelt to bell housing). But then I went and shoved the engine pretty far back and down. I'm going to have a very short shaft, but I will move the rear axle eventually anyways. I just might have to do it sooner than I had planned too. As is I need to clock the rear axle so it points to the rear flange of the TC so I can use the Double Cardan. The front drive shaft will contact the skid plate with TC being so far back and clocked down, so I need to mod that too. The front driveshaft will be ridiculously long.
 

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It will be a challenge, the M5OD is 4.5" longer, but the engine is also 2" shorter (from drivebelt to bell housing). But then I went and shoved the engine pretty far back and down. I'm going to have a very short shaft, but I will move the rear axle eventually anyways. I just might have to do it sooner than I had planned too. As is I need to clock the rear axle so it points to the rear flange of the TC so I can use the Double Cardan. The front drive shaft will contact the skid plate with TC being so far back and clocked down, so I need to mod that too. The front driveshaft will be ridiculously long.
I'm planning on a DIY skid plate for mine. On my 350 swap with the 700r4, my rear shaft is going to be a whopping 2" longer than it was with my ax15 if I am going to use my np231 with the sye it has. This is because the 350 sits further forward than my 4.2l did. I'm thinking of getting a super short np241 sye from JB conversions so I can have an even longer shaft with stronger t-case. I have a dodge np241 that has the same input splines and bolt pattern as my jeep np231.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm planning on a DIY skid plate for mine. On my 350 swap with the 700r4, my rear shaft is going to be a whopping 2" longer than it was with my ax15 if I am going to use my np231 with the sye it has. This is because the 350 sits further forward than my 4.2l did. I'm thinking of getting a super short np241 sye from JB conversions so I can have an even longer shaft with stronger t-case. I have a dodge np241 that has the same input splines and bolt pattern as my jeep np231.
Lucky for me, the 1356 TC has a flange and so does my 8.8. It would be impossible with a SYE. Or at least it would be impossible without moving the rear axle back a foot or so...

The skid plate/trans x-member worked for me. The holes nearly lined right up. I just had to enlarge one of the slots and make a new one since the Ford trans mount had a wider pattern. I could not be more pleased with how well the engine and trans fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Finally got the wire harness done and fired up the 5.0. Definitely needs a muffler, all my neighbors know that I have it running too... Hopefully I will get it to the shop for drivelines and exhaust this weekend, but life might have other plans for my money. We shall see. I need a new radiator too...
 

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Finally got the wire harness done and fired up the 5.0. Definitely needs a muffler, all my neighbors know that I have it running too... Hopefully I will get it to the shop for drivelines and exhaust this weekend, but life might have other plans for my money. We shall see. I need a new radiator too...
Picture's and video! I need some motivation to finish my swap haha
 
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