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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
or as close as I can get.

Just bought a '93 with 200k, mostly towed, miles. Stock springs have sagged, and the P.O. added 1-1/2" shackles (about 5/8" lift, as well as a transfer case drop) to help clear the 31" tires.

I want to stay as close as possible to the current 'lift', maybe a little taller, but with new springs and shocks. (I'm an old guy with bad legs. Climbing into the Warden's 6" lifted YJ with 33s is a PITA!)

Looking for recommendations, since aftermarket applications can be all over the board. 2-1/2" lifts turn into 4" overall!! 4" lifts sag! Even 'stock repair' kits seem to add 2-1/2" overall.

I can deal with an inch or so lift from this point, but I can't find a 1" to 1-1/2" lift kit or stock spring refurb setup. I don't want to experiment with add-a-leafs or bastard packs, and want to keep it as close to stock as possible.

I'm not in the Old Man Emu tax bracket. Just looking for close to stock springs without any surprises.

Current setup:



Thanks.
 

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A set of stock springs( many swear by General Spring in Kansas), re-bush the frame anchor points, good set of shocks and replace all the hardware. Be sure not to over tighten the shackle bolts. You should have room for the 31s with no problems and decent ride quality.
 

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if you can't afford $125 a corner for springs/bushings from OME, then don't do anything but saving $$ for them till you can


...and for the minimal size lift you have, the T/C drop should be unnecessary, since it does nothing for added tire clearance
 

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I got crown automotive hd springs from Amazon for $86 a spring the rear has an extra leaf over stock and the leaves are a little thicker they ride good I've got soa so I'm not sure how good they are on spring under it also lifted mine maybe an inch over the stock springs

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

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if you can't afford $125 a corner for springs/bushings from OME, then don't do anything but saving $$ for them till you can


...and for the minimal size lift you have, the T/C drop should be unnecessary, since it does nothing for added tire clearance
I'm glad I checked the OME prices before challenging Crackeds statement.
Either I was mistaken about OME costs or the price has come down.

If the OP goes with the OME kit + a set of good shocks, he'll probably want to keep the transfer case drop.

If he goes with the General Spring springs, they have regular duty and heavy duty springs. The heavy duty springs have one extra leaf and a person might consider them if they plan on adding a winch and heavier bumper in front and a hard top and heavier bumper in back and/or plan on towing a (light, under 2000Lbs.) trailer.

I have the HD General springs with aftermarket wheels with 4" backspacing. I expect that 31" tires will clear with only this setup but I also have a 2" body lift so I don't know for sure. With the General HD springs, I don't have a transfer case drop and I don't get any driveline vibrations.

I installed the 2" body lift and the 31s right after I got the Jeep. The ride was so rough with my old springs and worn shocks that I got the new springs and good shocks. Before, when I hit a speed bump the old springs allowed my front axle to hit the snubber even at walking speed. Now at least my axle doesn't hit the snubbers.

I haven't removed the body lift because I like the clearance between the tub and the chassis.
At my age, climbing into the Jeep with a 2" body lift just requires a bit of extra effort. I have to remember to not pull myself in by grabbing the steering wheel, because to do so eventually loosens the bolts in the tilt column.

From what I remember, the General springs were just a few dollars less expensive than the OME springs. The cost of bushings (OME has non-stock sized bushings), "U" bolts and quality shocks should be the same with whatever springs OP decides to go with.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm glad I checked the OME prices before challenging Crackeds statement.
Either I was mistaken about OME costs or the price has come down.

If the OP goes with the OME kit + a set of good shocks, he'll probably want to keep the transfer case drop.

If he goes with the General Spring springs, they have regular duty and heavy duty springs. The heavy duty springs have one extra leaf and a person might consider them if they plan on adding a winch and heavier bumper in front and a hard top and heavier bumper in back and/or plan on towing a (light, under 2000Lbs.) trailer.

I have the HD General springs with aftermarket wheels with 4" backspacing. I expect that 31" tires will clear with only this setup but I also have a 2" body lift so I don't know for sure. With the General HD springs, I don't have a transfer case drop and I don't get any driveline vibrations.

I installed the 2" body lift and the 31s right after I got the Jeep. The ride was so rough with my old springs and worn shocks that I got the new springs and good shocks. Before, when I hit a speed bump the old springs allowed my front axle to hit the snubber even at walking speed. Now at least my axle doesn't hit the snubbers.

I haven't removed the body lift because I like the clearance between the tub and the chassis.
At my age, climbing into the Jeep with a 2" body lift just requires a bit of extra effort. I have to remember to not pull myself in by grabbing the steering wheel, because to do so eventually loosens the bolts in the tilt column.

From what I remember, the General springs were just a few dollars less expensive than the OME springs. The cost of bushings (OME has non-stock sized bushings), "U" bolts and quality shocks should be the same with whatever springs OP decides to go with.

Good Luck, L.M.
Thanks, all.

I guess OMEs can be cheaper if shopping around. I was referring to the roughly $1k price for the complete kit at Quadratec.

I'll do some more research.
 

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TopHog,
I'm going thru this exact scenario with my 93 YJ and I ordered standard springs from Crown along with poly bushings, new bolts, and Bilstein 4600 shocks all around. I've had great experiences with Bilstein on other trucks and they've turned what I considered bad springs/shocks into a very smooth and controlled ride. I'm making a few other changes as well and I've only driven this Jeep for a test ride and loading on the trailer. We'll see how it works out, but I'm very hopeful that it will meet my needs.
Rut
 

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OP already has the TC drop that comes with the OME kit. We don't know the condition of his shocks or shackle bushings.

Most posters recommend new "U" bolts. I reused my old ones with no ill effects. Unlike many "U" bolts that we see, the ends were undamaged by rocks and other trail debris. Some posters say to replace them due to possible stretching. In the 25 years they were on my Jeep before I bought it, I guess they stretched as far as they were going to. I re-torqued everything after a couple of weeks and don't remember turning the "U" bolt nuts more than a couple or few degrees. Same thing with the main eye and shackle bushing bolts.

I may get new "U" bolts when I install an 8.8 rear axle.

No matter which way he goes with the springs, he will want to go with some form of stock length shackle.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
...and for the minimal size lift you have, the T/C drop should be unnecessary, since it does nothing for added tire clearance
I know. I just mentioned that because the PO (or shop) put on longer shackles (bolt holes 5-5/8" on center), AND for some reason a 1" t-case drop! WTF

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As far as damaged hardware, I don't think this Jeep was ever off road. It spent most of it's life behind a motorhome, and the second owner got it for his high school aged daughter, who I think grew tired of it quickly. No air and a noisy top! :)

No rust, original paint, original plug wires.
 

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Stock springs (I guess General Spring is the best option) and Bilstein shocks. Install the springs first and see where your Jeep sits. Then order the shocks. You may end up needing "lift" shocks. My front shocks are 4" lift shocks and rears are 2.5" lift. Fronts are still too short and rears are still too long.

I prefer to lift mine up high so when I take my date on the trails, she'll ask me to lift her up into the Jeep...
 
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...I may get new "U" bolts when I install an 8.8 rear axle...
You're gonna need them - the 3.25" axle tube is much wider than the Dana 35 :)

FWIW, there are some places that offer "Dana60/70, Ford 9', Ford 8.8" U-bolt kits. These are all too narrow... I went through 2 sets before sending them both back and ordering a set of RE u-bolts from Quadratec.
 
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