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Hi guys, I bought a '95 YJ that has a crushed tub from a fallen tree. I was hoping to get the 4.0 engine and AX15 tranny out and swap it with my 2.5 4-banger in my '94 YJ. I have seen several post saying this is not a good or easy thing to do.



The '95 YJ has the 4.0 I6, AX15 transmission, 9" Ford rear axle, Tom Woods slip yoke eliminator, SOA lift, etc. All of the chassis is better than my '94 so I was thinking about swapping all of my '94 2.5 YJ's body onto the "95 YJ, is this a good idea? Will this work? Will everything fit...and how hard is it to do?



Thanks for your advice!
 

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Thread moved from YJ Build to YJ Tech.

Hopefully you'll get more answers in this section. :thumb:
 

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Yep would be a straight forward swap BUT swapping the drivetrain and wiring is also an option... what condition are the frames in?

The biggest difference between swapping drivetrains and swapping bodies will be welding the 4.0 motor mounts on the 2.5 frame
 

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As for "how hard is it" that is hard to quantify without knowing you..... tell us of a mechanical project you did that you thought was really hard so we can compare for ya.

To me NOTHING is hard, just more bolts, more cutting and welding, and MORE money....
Well maybe reverse engineering complex wiring and computer stuff to make a non standard swap starts getting hard bordering on impossible but you wouldn't have any of that to worry about.
 

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As for "how hard is it" that is hard to quantify without knowing you..... tell us of a mechanical project you did that you thought was really hard so we can compare for ya.

To me NOTHING is hard, just more bolts, more cutting and welding, and MORE money....
Well maybe reverse engineering complex wiring and computer stuff to make a non standard swap starts getting hard bordering on impossible but you wouldn't have any of that to worry about.
I'm 54 and getting achy doing this kind of work but I've been pulling motors and transmissions since I was a teen. I pulled my 4L60E out of my '99 Z71 and rebuilt the transmission by myself with some good info from nice guys sharing their know-ho with me on the internet. My son may be a lot of help on this project if I can get him over here. I wanted to make sure the tubs are the same and I am wondering if I have to use the '95 instrument panel or will the '94 work with the '95 ECU.

Thanks for your reply!
 

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I'm 54 and getting achy doing this kind of work but I've been pulling motors and transmissions since I was a teen. I pulled my 4L60E out of my '99 Z71 and rebuilt the transmission by myself with some good info from nice guys sharing their know-ho with me on the internet. My son may be a lot of help on this project if I can get him over here. I wanted to make sure the tubs are the same and I am wondering if I have to use the '95 instrument panel or will the '94 work with the '95 ECU.

Thanks for your reply!
You should be good to go as long as you have the necessary equipment and have a plan in place before you start.
I'm like Gottagofast in regards to nothing is too hard. It just requires more thought, more tools and more money. With the internet available, a person can research just about anything. I'd start with UTUBE and go from there.

As far as being 54 and getting achy, I'm 75 and I'd tackle switching tubs on a YJ. As long as the tub on your '94 is in good condition (not rusted) and the frame on the '95 isn't damaged from the tree falling, I'd switch tubs rather than change drivetrains from the '95 into the '94.

You'll need the under hood and maybe under dash wiring harnesses from the '95. I don't know how the plug on the firewall is set up on each year Jeep. As long as the connections at the firewall are the same you should be able to use the entire dash from the '94 as long as you use the '95 computer. If the '94-'95 YJ's are like my '87 the computers are a totally separate harness. You'll also want the brake booster/master cylinder from the '95 to end up in your completed vehicle.
I'd begin by stripping everything off the '95 tub and setting it aside. Then remove the '95 tub and set it aside. Look over the '95 chassis for anything that might need attention and get it fixed. Meanwhile you can keep driving the '94. Don't get rid of anything until you're actually driving the completed combined vehicle. There's always a little do-dad that you'll discover that you need.

Once you're ready to move your '94 tub onto the prepared '95 chassis, have the equipment and tools ready. If you have a gantry crane on a large enough paved surface, you're golden. Most of us don't have a gantry crane so you'll have to have a plan in place. Four 55 gallon steel drums and two 4X4's are handy to support the '94 tub while you pull the old chassis from under it and roll the '95 chassis back under it.

There's probably a lot more to consider than what I've pointed out above (like soaking everything in your favorite penetrating oil for weeks before beginning the project) and other posters should add to it.
As long as you have the equipment, tools, space and a good plan, you should only have the normal amount of problems.

When you're all done and happily motoring down the road or down the trail in your combined Jeep, you'll have a bunch of parts to sell and recover some of the cost of your project.

Wishing you the Best of Luck, L.M.
 

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Oh yeah, Please post some pics of your project as you do it.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh yeah, Please post some pics of your project as you do it.

Good Luck, L.M.
Thanks, that's some good info! I'll get a few cans of PB Blaster on it right away!

I'm going to have to use the fenders from the '94 too, it will be a complete body swap all the way down to the chassis, however, I would like to keep the '95 instrument panel because it is in better shape and has cool blue dash lights. Some of the stuff under the dash is crushed around the fan motor and vents, I'm hoping I can use that stuff from my "94.

I will post pics when this gets underway!
 

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Fwiw 4 guys can easily lift and carry a jeep tub...

The ecm does not have a seperate harness.... I THINK most stuff will interchange between 94 and 95 except the engine specific stuff

You'll be fine.... giterdone
 

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If you have done neither, the tub swap is by far the lesser of two evils, as there is zero fabrication involved. Tub swaps are straightforward and certainly easy to accomplish, all things considered. And since the differences between the two years are virtually nil (removing the engine/trans. combo from the equation), it will be cake.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you have done neither, the tub swap is by far the lesser of two evils, as there is zero fabrication involved. Tub swaps are straightforward and certainly easy to accomplish, all things considered. And since the differences between the two years are virtually nil (removing the engine/trans. combo from the equation), it will be cake.
Thanks, This is encouraging!

Just to clarify... Now we are talking about a complete body swap all the way down to the chassis right?

Also, I have not done this before and not sure where to start. Would it be best to start with the dash or under the hood, fender/firewall?

Here's a pic of the donor Jeep.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fn_639XXzzcrUNbjOP8txd2NA42L1tB4
 

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Pull the hood grill and fenders top doors...
Unhook brake lines hoses throttle clutch wiring steering etc at firewall
Remove body bolts and fuel fill hoses
Begin jacking tub up slowly looking for anything you missed.
 

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Thanks, This is encouraging!

Just to clarify... Now we are talking about a complete body swap all the way down to the chassis right?

Also, I have not done this before and not sure where to start. Would it be best to start with the dash or under the hood, fender/firewall?

Here's a pic of the donor Jeep.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fn_639XXzzcrUNbjOP8txd2NA42L1tB4
Yes, tub=body.

Gottagofast gave you the condensed tutorial. Pretty much covers it.

As stated, pull the front groups off both (grilles, hoods, fenders), makes it a whole lot easier to work with and you don’t have to manually lift everything over the engine (assuming you don’t have a lift). Also, remove the shifters for the same reason. Research removing them via depressing the shift lever retaining rings and spinning counterclockwise slightly. No need to unbolt the shift lever housings.

Dive in, it won’t bite.
 

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Ah yes shifters.... t case shifter is a little tougher to remove... I'd remove the knob and boot on it and lift over
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks guys! I'm gonna make this happen.

I think this will be a good time to change colors as well, that black on black looks bad ass! The brilliant blue pearl coat on my '94 looks a bit dated.
 
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