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Discussion Starter #1
Been using this forum often enough for assistance, might as well start a build thread.

In June I bought a 94 YJ:
PO #1: Swapped the 2.5 to Chevy 4.3, carbed
PO #2: Kept it on the road

As I bought it the Chevy was running alright, unknown mileage on the block or body, around 200K on the odometer. Body was pretty solid, had been bedlined and was holding up fine to the northeast winters. Electrical was a nightmare, soft top was good.

Needed reverse switch, some brake work, etc.

After a few weeks of driving it around I upgraded to the '95 booster and MC, replaced the springs, shoes, pads, and cylinders in the rear. Then I started having power problem with the engine cutting out, my mechanic thought it was electrical but also found that the frame was not inspection-worthy.

Found a '95 Sahara that was already torn apart for body restoration with a good block, tranny, and frame. Sold off the bits I didn't need and swapped the body onto the new frame. Not sure how long the 4.0 had been sitting but got her fired back up and running.

New fuel system went in, new head gasket, manifold gasket, water pump, stat, stat housing, belts, pulleys, alternator. Changed the fluids, and she’s almost ready for inspection again.

Last weekend found a leaking axle seal, need to get the speedo working, HVAC connected, and figure out why I have no dash lights.

Overall goal - daily driver. Not worried about how she looks, she just has to get me from A to B
 

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Sounds like a fun project! Post some pictures please!!

By the way good thinking on getting rid of that 4.3. They've never been great motors and why someone would've swapped a carb'd one into a 94 YJ Is beyond me...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What is the best way to upload photos? Usually I upload to Flickr and copy the links over but those don't seem to want to display well on this forum and the forum gallery is a bit clunky for uploading.

As for the 4.3, had it been Vortec I probably would have kept it, it was my first carbed engine and I was hoping to get some good experience with carbs
 

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I've been using the "go advanced" and "manage attachments" method and uploading directly from my project folder on my computer. when the photo uploader on a forum of this type works, i find it the easiest way to go. Went thru the lost photo fun of p-bucket on one forum and use imgur on another, but still prefer to skip the middle step of moving my pics to another site.
 

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What is the best way to upload photos? Usually I upload to Flickr and copy the links over but those don't seem to want to display well on this forum and the forum gallery is a bit clunky for uploading.

As for the 4.3, had it been Vortec I probably would have kept it, it was my first carbed engine and I was hoping to get some good experience with carbs
I'll typically use imageshack or tinypic and just copy the url.

Really any imagehosting site will work too, just as long as you got the link!
 

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Body swap weekend:
New shocks
Rear track bar removed
Verified electrical from ignition to starter
Cut out old gas tank support and welded in new one
Swapped the body to the new frame

I think I made 7 hardware runs that weekend...

https://flic.kr/p/21gjFA5
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update: Trying to get rid of the huge clunk that happens when I engage a gear. Upgraded the tranny mount, installed the torque arm stud, put new u-joints in the rear driveshaft. Replaced the axle seals and bearings this weekend as well, didn't seem to have excessive play in the diff, but I'm no expert. Pinion spins clean, no hang-ups. The sound now sounds less like it's coming from the rear end and a bit more like right under the back of my seat - something with the transfer case? Is there a torque arm for the transfer case as well? Maybe time for new motor mounts?

Still chasing down the speedo problem, console install, lack of dash lights, and high idle (2k-3k rpm)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Seems like the PCM reset id the trick for the idle, at least so far.
Disconnected battery negative, removed positive, grounded positive cable to negative terminal for 30 seconds, reconnected positive, then negative, key to on headlights on for about 1 second, headlights off, key to off. Fired her up and she found a good idle at just under 1K.

In case anyone was wondering, the blower motor from a '95 is too large to fit through the firewall hole in a 94. That's now a tomorrow problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Any luck finding your "clunk" yet? Does it make noise when driving or just when you first put it in gear?
Not exactly. I was sure it was coming from the rear end for a bit, but then once the new ujoints went in it definietely sounded like from tcase area. I have an upgraded tranny mount and am using the torque arm, so I don't think those are moving too much anymore, but I could be wrong. Is there a tcase mount that I could be missing?

It is also not stuck in 4wd - I thought that perhaps the extra noise was 4wd related but that it not the case.

Clunk still happens when I put start moving in gear. Not as bad at speed, but there is still more noise than I think there should be. Even if I let the clutch out real slow I still have that clunk once the driveline engages.

My 4wd gear selector seems seized in place in 2H, maybe that is related?
 

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possibly up in the front axle engagement area and the noise is transmitting back thru the front driveshaft? I know u said shifter is stuck in 2H, a few years back my switch went bad and I locked the front axle in 4wd up there. wonder if someone tried the same and got it wrong??
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It really sounds like something is moving around that shouldn't be. There is only the one mount. Mount a gopro under there and drive it around and see if anything is moving around.
I'll have to look around for an old junk camera, that's a good idea.

possibly up in the front axle engagement area and the noise is transmitting back thru the front driveshaft? I know u said shifter is stuck in 2H, a few years back my switch went bad and I locked the front axle in 4wd up there. wonder if someone tried the same and got it wrong??
I have a posi for the front on the old frame, need to get that moved over at some point. But I know I'm in 2H - tried to pull out the other side of the garage last weekend and nearly got stuck in the snow. Definitely no drive to the front wheels at the moment
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finally ready for inspection, my list is down to the clunk, 4WD selection, speedo, and rear wiper.

Got the heater cables all set, dash lights working again, console mounted. I forgot to take pics of the console, I did a little fab work to the ammo can to hinge the lid.

FWIW, if you need to replace the defrost vent cable (connects to heater controls on the top right side, vent door is on center down low) you can take the cable that controls the driver vent door (connects to heater controls on the top left side, vent door is behind speedo) and turn it around backwards (put the cable adjuster on the vent door side). Fits perfectly for the space, doesn't have to go over the steering column, and the adjuster allows you to play with the cable length until it's correct. You may have to cut the plastic sheath off of the adjuster end. I removed the sheath up to the clip when trying to install the cable the opposite direction, then realized it would work better reversed, so I don't recall if that will get in the way or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Love that heat. No freezing cold hands anymore!
Console works great. Forgot to take pics of that again, and she's dropped off for inspection and a few tests.

I am beginning to suspect motor mounts may be causing the clunk, as I have a lot of torque steer when I get on and off the gas. Steering is pretty loose right now, so it's a bit hard to tell if that is exaggerating the issue, but I'll have my guy put in some poly mounts and see how much clunking continues. Still wouldn't be surprised if the throwout or pilot bearings are part of that issue.

Picked up and engine stand this afternoon, once I get back from Germany I'll pull the 4.3 off of the old frame and see if it is salvageable, at least get it cleaned up and hopefully running again. I will probably sell the AX15 from that frame, but until the 4WD gets resolved I'll hold onto the tcase. A sculptor will be picking up the frame, springs, and whatever else is getting scrapped, leaving me with the axles, shafts, and steering components
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Love that heat! No more cold hands

Forgot to take photos of the console again, but dropped her off for inspection and testing. I think the clunk may be the result of old OEM motor mounts, as I have quite a bit of torque steer when I get on and off the gas with the tranny still engaged. We'll start with poly mounts and see how that does.

Picked up and engine stand so in a month or two I can pull the 4.3 off the old frame, clean that up and figure out what to do with it. Will probably sell the AX15, holding onto the tcase until the 4WD issue is resolved. I may need a storage unit...

Found a sculptor who is taking away the old frame and whatever metal bits I was going to scrap, so that will be re-purposed in a neat way
 

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you're probably on the money on the engine mounts being the noise source. I kind of figured you'd ruled that out already. Take the hood off, whack the gas and you'll see it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
you're probably on the money on the engine mounts being the noise source. I kind of figured you'd ruled that out already. Take the hood off, whack the gas and you'll see it.
I thought I'd ruled that out too, since a sitting rev didn't seem to rock the jeep much, I guess once you connect all of that torque something has to give. I asked my guy to install poly mounts so by April she should be nice and secure.

It's going to be weird not working on the cars for a month or two
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Any luck finding your "clunk" yet? Does it make noise when driving or just when you first put it in gear?
possibly up in the front axle engagement area and the noise is transmitting back thru the front driveshaft?
Got a call from my mechanic yesterday, seems like he found the trouble. The rear spring alignment pins were so shot that the axle was effectively rotating every time I get on and off the gas. Plus the front right spring had broken near the frame mount.

I'm kicking myself for not looking over the suspension better but honestly I don't know if I would have caught the pins with my lack of experience.

New springs and ubolts are on their way, along with motor mounts (might as well). Hopefully that does the trick
 
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