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I am by no means a mechanic not even close so forgive the basic lingo and any replies I'd appreciate in very laymen's lingo....

Ok so I have a 95 wrangler 2.5L 4cyl, only have about 2000 miles on a rebuilt engine. It has been purring like a kitten that is until recently. I noticed that for some reason it'll shift fine going highway speeds until I get to 5th gear and then it acts like it won't let me shift into 5th, I'll move the shifter around and mess with the clutch and eventually it'll let me shift into 5th. When I come to a stop it slides right in to 1st but it seems like the idle is just a little higher than normal and because before I could sit at a light with it in first and clutch in no problem, now it seems like once I'm at a stop and in first gear with the clutch in its acting like its ready to go I have to actually put the brake down. I noticed that it seems like I'm shifting a little closer to the floor than I remember but that could be just me... I don't know maybe someone can shed some light on something that could be wrong. I did check the fluid for the clutch and there are no leaks and fluid is present. When the engine was rebuilt they also put a new clutch kit in. That was a couple years ago and absolutely no problems til now...

Any help will be very appreciated....
 

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Hey man I was in the same boat as you, no idea of how a clutch operated, that is until I had to redo one myself twice Cus I screwed it up the first time. But what it sounds like is that your clutch isn't totally disengaging, now that could be any number of things starting with your master and hydraulic setup, and your throwout bearing and fork that its set on. I still wouldent put it past there being air in your hydraulic setup somehow that isnt giving you the power, were the hydraulics replaced with the clutch, and if you think so can you confirm it?
 

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If I had to guess I'm going to go with no, I don't think the hydraulics were replaced I think it was just the clutch kit
 

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Try bleeding it first, brake fluid breaks down and takes on water over time. That can cause the clutch not to release properly, and might save you from replacing the slave cylinder. I'd give it a try, its cheap and easy to do. Also leaving the clutch depressed and the transmission in first waiting at lights puts a lot of wear on your throw-out bearing. I stay in Neutral with my foot off the clutch at lights. Just something to keep in mind.
 

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Sounds like a weak master/slave cylinder , I put the two together because its almost impossible to tell exactly which one is the culprit. Unless you are a skilled mechanic replacing one or the other is tough because the system is difficult to bleed. Your best bet is to purchase them together as an assembly and install them together, they com pre bled. They cost a little more that way but you will be glad you spent the extra bucks.
 

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I agree with the two of them, see if you can maybe bleed it but if that s the original there's a good chance that its bad and needs to be replaced. The pre bled and assembled system is available from Napa for about 170 bucks and takes all of 20 minutes to replace
 

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Oh one other thing I forgot to mention, this may not have anything to do with it but maybe... The last time I drove it when I got home I put it neutral before I went to put it in reverse and noticed that it was idling a little higher than normal well apparently it was because it wouldn't let me go into reverse I hit the gas a few times and clutch in and out and it finally idled down so I backed into the driveway but when I came to a stop I engaged the clutch again and still seemed like it was a little higher rpm than normal... Could it all be tied together or is this something seperate ?
 

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There is a possibility that that could have something to do with it, when you tried to put it in reverse did you put it in first gear then reverse to stop the synchros? It will usually slide into reverse better if you do that. And for your idle I'm not totally sure if something is wrong but there is the idle control that controls your idle by slightly opening and closing the throttle and I hear that sometimes they can get stuck or need to be cleaned
 

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Master cylinder is shot/ on it's way out.
Time to replace. I replace both as the other can go out soon after with no notice. Then your pulling things apart again.
As for your idle. Your IAC needs to be cleaned. It might not be closing all the way.
Look inside your throttle body, you will see a slit inside just above the valve plate. That's where the IAC is located (well the part that moves anyway). Using a sensor safe throttle body cleaner, spray in the little slit. Clean the entire TB as per instructions. Focus a lot on the slit. You should also remove the IAC and clean the stem/plunger as well. Be careful as there is a rubber o ring that may stretch and could need to be replaced. Keep that in mind. See how that works for you. Good luck.
 
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