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Discussion Starter #1
so i've decided to put a small lift on my rig and had intended to go the BB route. During my research, i came across the following.

Rough Country 642.20 - 3.25-inch Suspension Lift System (97-02 6 Cylinder Models) with Premium N2.0 Series Shocks for Jeep: Wrangler TJ 4WD : Amazon.com : Automotive


Side note: i have a 3/4" body lift and 31s. I really didn't want more than 2" of suspension as i didn't want to have start messing with SYE, mod'd shafts, ext... i'm considering this lift because I just ordered a SB XRC front bumper, winch and rear bumper. I hear this has the potential to drop the overall lift height due to the weight of the new products. I'll be upgrading to 33s once the 31s are sufficiently worn out.

Question: are these solid products? Does the price look legit? do i need to worry about sye/cv? is my rig gonna look weird rolling on the 31s with the increased lift? will this product actually provide some "flex" in the suspension or do i need additional products (track bar, quick disconnects, etc...).
thanks in advance, i'm a total noob.
 

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Rough country products are just what the brand implies,, Rough... A lot of guys like using the Zone lift kits, others like myself save up a bit and use Old Man Emu or other quality kits.. You get what you pay for.. If I were ever in the market for another TJ, I'd steer clear of anything with a Rough Country suspension beneath it ... If all you're after is a Budget Boost, there are several manufacturers that make 1.75" to 2" spring spacers for around $100.. With a 1.75" boost and a 1" body lift you can run skinny 33" tires and keep your stock shocks... You may need to either install a motor mount lift 1" or drop your transfer case, that depends upon driveline vibration after you go up...
 

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The RC springs will fall down a bit when you put on that gear, whereas Zone would not (as much). If I were you, I'd skip those hydraulic (2.0) shocks and buy a different brand such as Bilstein, Rancho, or even the Skyjacker M95s which seem to get great reviews.

To answer your questions: 1) Not the best in the business, but RC has a nice warranty. 2) Not 100% sure. 3) Maybe, maybe not. All jeeps are different. With your Body lift (BL) however, you could throw in a motor mount lift (mml) and not have to worry. 4) No. 5) Flex will come from your shocks, depends on the measurements how much flex you shall receive, although it'll be more than stock. Keep some cash in hand in case you need to upgrade a trackbar.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@omni... thanks bruh. i really appreciate you attempting to specifically answer my questions. Can't tell you the number of times i've replied to a post but never really answered the OP's questions. Again, thanks.

So, i seems to me that most BB and suspension lifts all provide the same type of parts. The difference being the quality. My question is, for the money, I could get a lot of usable parts from this kit and swap out the shocks for some Ranchos and still come out ahead. What are your thoughts
 

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Just to be extra clear, what's your budget? You may be able to squeeze in higher quality parts.

Lots of Jeepers that run Zone swear by them. Zone has high spring rates, which will most likely net you over 3" lift, however with the winch and bumpers, I believe you'll sag it down a bit. no guarantees tho. The shocks I know nothing about, but gas charged beat out hydraulic every day.

Based off your first post, you want enough lift for 33s, but without the hassle of dealing with the price of SYE/DC. The kit comes with a t-case drop which is counterproductive to the overall lift, yet since you have a body lift, I'd kick in a motor mount lift to hopefully prevent using that drop. If you feel vibes, then I would start placing washers in one-by-one.
I also noticed the kit comes with bumps stops (+!) and a *rear* track bar relocation bracket. That's great, but your front track bar may not agree with 3 inches of lift. I would recommend saving just in case.
One last thing, there's a guy named AOR (I think) on here, send him a pm and he could probably set you up with all you want at a discount! :thumb:
 

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Begging both your pardons here. But I was under the impression that your question revolved around a BB ( budget boost ) ... and not a suspension system.. These are two very different things ..I posted info on a BB.. and neglected to mention utilizing JKS discos for articulation..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
@rubi...no worries sir. I actually started the thread as a BB endeavor. But after a bit of education realized that what I'm really after is a suspension lift. At this point, I'm really leaning toward the Zone product line. Seems like the most bang for my buck. I live in the midwest so there's a ton of trail riding available.

I do have a question for you. I have seen people post stuff about disco'ing the rear. What does that mean?
 

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Means quick disconnects (sway bar links) in the rear. I don't believe that would be very necessary due to the rears articulation, but for the front yes.
 

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One last thing, there's a guy named AOR (I think) on here, send him a pm and he could probably set you up with all you want at a discount! :thumb:
That would be true. Screen name is AOR and given is Allen. Thank you for the mention. I am grateful.

Allen
 

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Discussion Starter #11
AOR, thanks for weighing in. I kind of have an idea of what I want to do, but now that I have your captive expertise, would you mind sharing your thought. I think I want to go with the Zone 3". I figure that if I'm going to go through the effort of installing a BB I'm really only a few steps and a couple hundred away from a suspension lift. plus, I like the added functionality and increased travel the suspension lift will provide. so the one area that I'm not clear about is how to increase articulation. this is my first attempt at upgrading a suspension so I really don't know/understand the difference/function of a trackbar, swaybar, etc... I can't afford to spend thousands off the bat, so I need to be able to upgrade in order of importance.
thanks in advance, I really appreciate your time.
Rob
 

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AOR, thanks for weighing in. I kind of have an idea of what I want to do, but now that I have your captive expertise, would you mind sharing your thought. I think I want to go with the Zone 3". I figure that if I'm going to go through the effort of installing a BB I'm really only a few steps and a couple hundred away from a suspension lift. plus, I like the added functionality and increased travel the suspension lift will provide. so the one area that I'm not clear about is how to increase articulation. this is my first attempt at upgrading a suspension so I really don't know/understand the difference/function of a trackbar, swaybar, etc... I can't afford to spend thousands off the bat, so I need to be able to upgrade in order of importance.
thanks in advance, I really appreciate your time.
Rob
Not a problem Rob.

Let's start out with the list of parts you said you were fuzzy on.

Track bar:

This is what centers the axle under the vehicle. With a coil spring suspension you do not have the stabilizing factors like you do in a leaf sprung vehicle to maintain the axle under center. Therefore you need something to maintain the axle from exiting the vehicle.

Sway bar:

This reduces body roll when cornering or making agressive emergency maneuvers on the surface streets. Which helps drivability and safety on roads. Offroad it is a limiting factor to articulation. In most cases of mild offroading you can keep the sway bar connected to the axle and all is good. You start rock krawling or getting into deep ruts or holes, you will want the sway bar to be disconnected. You only have as much traction as you do wheels on the ground and some type of carrier locking ability. More wheels on the ground without a locker, the more traction you have.

One you didn't mention but falls under "etc." Control arms (adjustable):

The factory suspension has a certain geometry that is designed to work together. When you install a spring suspension lift, you effectively change that geometry. Without changing the control arm lengths, since you still have the same achor points (in a short arm lift), you have shortened the arch at which the system functions. This results in a less than factory or ideal driveline angle situation. This in turn can cause vibrations at various and varrying rpms. This can also cause premature wear and/or failure of many components.

So you want to get adjustable control arms to be able to restore the best possible geometry/driveline angles into the suspension. Not to mention that the adjustable arms are a significant upgrade in terms of allowing articulation in the suspension itself without the increased risk of failure of the remaining stock components (mounts, etc).

Articulation:

Increasing articulation is a function of total wheel travel (both up and down). Down travel you will achieve by having longer springs/shocks to allow the axle to "drop out" while still having the springs stay in the front end. Up travel is limited by length of the shock in a compressed state ( you do not want to bottom them out and ruin them; hence the use of bumpstops), and also the room you have to stuff the tire without contact to other components under max wheel lock and up travel. Make sense?

A Zone 3" kit with a cam alignment kit (aids in realigning after geometry changes and adds back some caster) with an adjustable track is a good start. Much better than a BB; and yes you are better off once in there going the extra cost with a sring lift. You can add adjustable arms, SYE kit, and CV driveshaft later in anticipation of taller springs (if you're so inclined). Sway bar diconnects are a good idea if you plan on some aggressive wheeling soon. They will speed up the process of unhooking the sway bar and increasing articulation on the trail. Not to mention, after a long hard day of wheeling, when you are tired, get you back home faster.

A point about caster mentioned above. Caster helps you return the steering to center after making a turn. When you lift a rig without adjustable controls arms, you effectively reduce or swing the caster towards the zero or negative side. You want to have at least a few degrees of positive caster for a trail rig. Much easier driving on and offroad.

One more thing about your original question. Keep the existing BL if it is in good shape and everything is currently working like it should. With it installed you can always opt for a belly up skid plate to increase clearance under the Jeep. Yes the extra weight will reduce the lift height of any suspension. I can not attet to RC porducts as I do not run or sell them. You may or may not get vibrations from any 3" lift. It really depends on the current state of the rest of your drivetrain and the universe. Each Jeep is different.

Any other questions just shoot me a PM or post here.

Have a blessed and prosperous evening!

Namaste,

Allen
 
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