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... to this forum and whoever posted this link..

Mopar Connection Repair Kit

I ordered my '16 HR with the upgraded Alpine sound system, but did not upgrade the head unit because I had a, not too old, Pioneer AVH-X5600BHS stereo that I had installed in a previous car waiting for the Jeep. 2 weeks ago or so, I finally decided to install this head unit into the HR. I used the idatalink Maestro RR interface along with the CH1 wiring harness. The install went off without a hitch, and everything worked properly for this head unit. It sounded much better with a couple of exceptions.

1) The rear speakers were very weak. I could not hear them over the fronts. I don't know about you, but I like sitting in the middle of a sound field. I really dislike not being able to hear sound from behind me in a vehicle.

2) I lost fade control. When I faded 100% to the back, there was no sound at all... almost like there were no rear speakers installed. When faded to 0, I could hear sound when I put my ear to the rear speakers, but it was so weak, the fronts really over powered them to where they could not be heard at all, as stated.

The fix? Along with the Pioneer head unit, I had a PDX-F4 Alpine amp sitting around from that earlier vehicle. I decided, to install that amp to help with the rear speakers. It took all day, yesterday to do this install, but it sounds amazing. I tied into the factory speaker wiring at each of the front tweeters and woofers by running new wiring, and cutting the factory wiring and a making a pig tail at each speaker plug. To get sound to the rear speakers, I was able to cut the wiring at the factory harness and tie in new wires in the dash. I could not do this for the fronts because there are no speaker leads to the front in that harness. I now have fade control again, and the rear speakers kick like they are supposed to!

I also used the PAC Audio GM1 USB adapter to retain use of the center console USB port. The connector works well, but it's too short. I had to use a USB extension to reach the port on the head unit. I was like WTF is this thing so short? Another 3 inches and it would be golden. The sub... I did nothing to the wiring for that component, and it still thumps like it's supposed to.

Anyhow... the link posted above shows each individual speaker plug and the colors of the factory wiring used for (+) and (-) connections. If it had not been for the info on that website, I'd still be scratching my head trying to figure out how to get the correct polarity for the speaker connections.

So again... this forum and its members have been and continue to be a huge help... THANK YOU!!
 

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Correct. With the oem alpine upgrade and when you upgrade your head unit, you will lose fade control unless you add an amp. I'm glad they helped you out. My jeep wouldn't be in its current state without the help of forum members.
Wow, I just spent $$$$ on a Kenwood Excelon, iDatalink Maestro RR kit. Fade Control would be lost unless I add an amp??

Ugh, time to return these items I guess and just add a backup camera to my 430N and call it day.
 

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Guess I'm screwed then, I have a '16 JKUHR with the 430N/Alpine upgrade.

:-/


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It won’t be that bad. I replaced my HU with a pioneer 6200nex and kept all oem speakers/amp.

It was good but the oem speakers can’t handle the additional bump and less than a year, I had to upgrade the speakers due to distortion. I added an amp at the same time.
 

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It won’t be that bad. I replaced my HU with a pioneer 6200nex and kept all oem speakers/amp.

It was good but the oem speakers can’t handle the additional bump and less than a year, I had to upgrade the speakers due to distortion. I added an amp at the same time.


OEM speakers as in alpine? They looked beefy to me.


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Wow, I just spent $$$$ on a Kenwood Excelon, iDatalink Maestro RR kit. Fade Control would be lost unless I add an amp??

Ugh, time to return these items I guess and just add a backup camera to my 430N and call it day.
With the maestro you shouldn't have an issue. I believe it's the PAC systems which present the fade issues. The PAC systems aren't sophisticated enough to properly communicate to can bus.

I have Kenwood, alpine upgrade, and maestro and I don't have fade issues.

I will say though I was disappointed in the way the alpine amp handles the sub woofer and opted for a new subwoofer amp a while later.
 

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With the maestro you shouldn't have an issue. I believe it's the PAC systems which present the fade issues.

I have Kenwood, alpine upgrade, and maestro and I don't have fade issues.

I will say though I was disappointed in the way the alpine amp handles the sub woofer and opted for a new subwoofer amp a while later.
can you elaborate more on your dissapointment? I don't want to hijack the thread, so feel free to PM me or I can start another thread.

I was pretty impressed watching the video on the R&D alpine did for the upgraded system (i.e. using the CANBUS to detect when the top is off to adjust the frequencies and sensitivity to compensate for wind noise, etc..). I wonder if this is also retained with an aftermarket head unit.

Thanks @dawhitesJKU for your input as well.
 

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In the 2015 and later with the Alpine system, all the speakers are Alpine and Alpine makes the sound bar as well. It is different then the stock soundbar. The front in dash speakers (not the tweeters on top) are in specially designed Alpine enclosures.
 
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can you elaborate more on your dissapointment? I don't want to hijack the thread, so feel free to PM me or I can start another thread.

I was pretty impressed watching the video on the R&D alpine did for the upgraded system (i.e. using the CANBUS to detect when the top is off to adjust the frequencies and sensitivity to compensate for wind noise, etc..). I wonder if this is also retained with an aftermarket head unit.

Thanks @dawhitesJKU for your input as well.
The better quality Aftermarket head units (like the one you got) have a ton of adjustments for gain and frequency cutoffs for the sub (and other speakers) so you can set it up the way you want. You can't however do this with the alpine upgrade since all controls are set by the alpine amp and it makes its own adjustments which you can't control.

If you disconnect the sub from the alpine amp and connect it to its own amp and connect that amp directly to the low level outputs on the HU then then YOU can control the sub to your liking. Turn it up... down... adjust the frequencies... etc. It sounds pretty amazing once you tailor it to how you want it.

It should be understood though that the reason why fade control... speaker volumes... etc are handed over to the alpine amp and can bus is specifically because there is an auto adjustment for when the top is taken off. If you decide to power the sub on its own amp then obviously can bus can no longer automate this for you.

Here is what you retain with Maestro (pretty much everything). The whited out option will depend on your type of steering wheel control and the type of head unit you get. The NEX version retain it all.

http://maestro.idatalink.com/search...17&vehicle_model_id=91&vehicle_audio_id=12056
 

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The better quality Aftermarket head units (like the one you got) have a ton of adjustments for gain and frequency cutoffs for the sub (and other speakers) so you can set it up the way you want. You can't however do this with the alpine upgrade since all controls are set by the alpine amp and it makes its own adjustments which you can't control.

If you disconnect the sub from the alpine amp and connect it to its own amp and connect that amp directly to the low level outputs on the HU then then YOU can control the sub to your liking. Turn it up... down... adjust the frequencies... etc. It sounds pretty amazing once you tailor it to how you want it.

It should be understood though that the reason why fade control... speaker volumes... etc are handed over to the alpine amp and can bus is specifically because there is an auto adjustment for when the top is taken off. If you decide to power the sub on its own amp then obviously can bus can no longer automate this for you.

Here is what you retain with Maestro (pretty much everything). The whited out option will depend on your type of steering wheel control and the type of head unit you get. The NEX version retain it all.

http://maestro.idatalink.com/search...17&vehicle_model_id=91&vehicle_audio_id=12056


Ahhhh I see now. Choosing my Kenwood Excelon DNX693S, site confirms it will retain the digital fader/gain controls:

FACTORY AMPLIFIER
Amplifier Turn On
Digital Fader (Premium Audio)
Gain Adjustment (Premium Audio)

Sigh of relief here.


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Ahhhh I see now. Choosing my Kenwood Excelon DNX693S, site confirms it will retain the digital fader/gain controls:

FACTORY AMPLIFIER
Amplifier Turn On
Digital Fader (Premium Audio)
Gain Adjustment (Premium Audio)

Sigh of relief here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah. The Maestro is a heck of a lot more sophisticated than the PAC systems. There is 100% communications between Maestro and can bus. The PAC units can only communicate with can bus on a very rudimentary scale.

Combine that with the ability of certain head units to attain 100% communication with the Maestro (higher end Pioneers, Kenwoods, Alpines... etc) and you have a system that matches the stock systems, and in some cases, surpasses in certain areas.
 

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Yeah. The Maestro is a heck of a lot more sophisticated than the PAC systems. There is 100% communications between Maestro and can bus. The PAC units can only communicate with can bus on a very rudimentary scale.

Combine that with the ability of certain head units to attain 100% communication with the Maestro (higher end Pioneers, Kenwoods, Alpines... etc) and you have a system that matches the stock systems, and in some cases, surpasses in certain areas.
Awesome. I don't really like the 430N interface including maps.
 
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