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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had this jeep since 35,000 (now 94,000) and I was assuming the rear track bar hadn't been replaced. But when I replaced it the other day with a Moog Problem Solver part, it looked exactly the same. Also, is the Torx bolt on the the axle side fully threaded? Mine is and the sleeve in the bushing flattened the threads. I realize that it doesn't matter but I still want to know. It seems that Chrysler would have put a partially Torx through there since they put a partially threaded bolt on the frame side.
I have an even more impressive "clunk" in the back end since I swapped the rear track bar and i'm trying to diagnose whats going on.
 

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Did you torque the bolts at each end of the TB to factory specs?

Were any of the holes in the mounting bracket ob-longed?

Go from there and report back.

Also, those threads aren't even utilized. Better to have more threads than not enough
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
None of the holes were ob-longed and I will re-torque (74 ft. lbs.) tomorrow and report back. I've noticed that it doesn't "clunk" under a load, like when accelerating backwards. When just rolling off the curb at the end of the driveway, it will clunk. More so when rolling back while turning to the left.
 

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None of the holes were ob-longed and I will re-torque (74 ft. lbs.) tomorrow and report back. I've noticed that it doesn't "clunk" under a load, like when accelerating backwards. When just rolling off the curb at the end of the driveway, it will clunk. More so when rolling back while turning to the left.
Sure it's not a control arm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am wondering about a control arm. I'll have to YouTube how to check those. As far as shocks, anything is possible but I replaced those with Bilstien 5300 series within the last couple years.
Thanks for the replies
 

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I've had this jeep since 35,000 (now 94,000) and I was assuming the rear track bar hadn't been replaced. But when I replaced it the other day with a Moog Problem Solver part, it looked exactly the same. Also, is the Torx bolt on the the axle side fully threaded? Mine is and the sleeve in the bushing flattened the threads. I realize that it doesn't matter but I still want to know. It seems that Chrysler would have put a partially Torx through there since they put a partially threaded bolt on the frame side.
I have an even more impressive "clunk" in the back end since I swapped the rear track bar and i'm trying to diagnose whats going on.
The two OE 10mm bolts have a smooth shank where they pass through their steel bushings. It should not be threaded where it passes through the steel bushing. The hex head bolt holds the track bar in the the bracket, the torx holds the bracket in place.

I still have my OE track bar bolt, here's a pic I just took of it. I'd replace that bolt with a smooth shank bolt. It's a metric 10x1.5x80. Go for one with an 8.8, or better,10.9 strength rating. The bolt at the frame side of the track bar is a 12mm.
 

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HHmmm I wonder if my bolts were replaced by the PO.
Mine are fully threaded in the rear and partially threaded in the front TB.

Also, check your sway bar end links for excessive play.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well gentlemen, the bolts are torqued to the specified 74 ft. lbs. So then it would seem that both 8.8 and 10.9 grade bolts are insufficient? The dealer gave me a pn# for the rear track bar bolt as 6505467AA and its a 12mm x 1.75mm x 80mm button head. According to Parts.com, that is the bolt for both sides. I realize some might think that all this attention to bolts is nonsense but I'm going to replace them because $5.00 a piece to eliminate them from the equation is worth it to me. Shocks, end links and sway bar bushings are less than 2 years old so control arms are all that's left to consider. A YouTube search talks all about replacing them, nothing about checking them. How do you guys check yours?
Unless I'm missing something (and that is VERY much a possibility) it has to be bolts or control arms. I'm sure I'm missing something.
Guys, I really appreciate the help on this one.
 

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Nope the table I linked shows a metric grade 10.9 12 mm bolt good to 142.8 NM so 105 ft lbs which is well past 74 ft lbs


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