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Discussion Starter #1
I've been doing a little work on my lighting. I have been adding individual relays here and there and I had a kludged together switch panel that I really wasn't happy with.

I did not originally go with an SPOD for a couple of reasons. I have been doing this in piece parts over the last 6 years. And the SPOD switches apparently don't work with a manual shifter. And, when it comes down to it, I just felt like doing it this way rather than just bolting in a ready-made solution.

So I bought a Rugged Ridge A-Pillar switch pod and installed some pushbutton lights in it.





I also decided to build a better set of relays. I bought 8 waterproof relays to go with the 8 switches. I also found an 8 position fuse panel. The wire running to it has a 100A circuit breaker on it. I bolted everything to an EVO Manufacturing air compressor mount.











I still need to install and wire up the rock lights I just bought. And I need to finish a couple other little things. But everything seems to be working out well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looks great. Just curious why you think the spod is incompatible with a manual? I have 2 spods in my 6spd.
I remember reading back in the early days that the switch panel didn't work with the manual shifter. Something about the shifter hitting one or two of the switches.

Besides, when I started it was just two lights so a SPOD was overkill. Then two lockers. It's taken me 6 years to get to the point where this was an upgrade I wanted to do.

And really, there's no reason I couldn't have gone with a SPOD. I just felt like building my own.
 

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I remember reading back in the early days that the switch panel didn't work with the manual shifter. Something about the shifter hitting one or two of the switches.

Besides, when I started it was just two lights so a SPOD was overkill. Then two lockers. It's taken me 6 years to get to the point where this was an upgrade I wanted to do.

And really, there's no reason I couldn't have gone with a SPOD. I just felt like building my own.
That was the Daystar switch panel. The SPOD mounts above the mirror.
I have a Daystar in my standard but had to swap out the boot to keep it from hitting the switches.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That was the Daystar switch panel. The SPOD mounts above the mirror.
I have a Daystar in my standard but had to swap out the boot to keep it from hitting the switches.
I stand corrected.
 

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Well done on the wiring. I like the lighted push button switches. A parts list would be nice.

Is the bracket for the relays, is that purchased or did you make it?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The bracket is an EVO Manufacturing air compressor mount. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TEA14ZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I drilled out holes where I needed them for the relays and fuse block.

The metripack connectors are from this kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cei-103009

I also have the matching crimp tool to go with the kit: https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/caspers-electronics?PageSize=100&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=crimp tool

I used these relays and bolted them to the bracket with some #10 screws: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HJFDJ8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The metripack kit comes with a tool that can be used to push the pre-wired terminals out of the plug. I used it on the relay plugs. I bought a pack of these crimp on spade connectors so I could put my own wires in, and the crimp tool for the metripack connectors works well on them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFEDLM4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The fuse block is an 8 position one from Blue Sea systems that gets bolted to the bracket with some #8 screws. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074ZX6LR7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One thing that is not pictured is the circuit breaker I used at the battery: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LW1C0DX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ran some 10 gauge wire from the battery to the breaker, and then over to the fuse block. The fuse block is rated for a total of 100A even though I won't be pushing anywhere near that much. The 10 gauge wire is sufficient for a short run across the firewall and far easier to work with than heavier gauge wire.

The switch panel is just a Rugged Ridge A-Pillar switch panel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X23B2U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used a step bit to drill out a 3/4" hole for the switches. Be careful because it will "drift" if you don't drill carefully and your switch hole will be off. (Look at the top left switch in the picture.)

These are the push button switches. The link will let you pick from a couple of colors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZR7MQBC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don't like the chrome switches, these are basically the same with a matte finish: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017KP67FY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have them in my XJ and they work just the same. Though you have to order the pigtail separately: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H5BXC0G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Beyond that, it's just 14 and 16 gauge wire, along with some crimp terminals (that I soldered on) and heat shrink tubing that you can pick up at any auto parts store.
 

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Did you use the existing light source wiring as the trigger for the relays? I was thinking about using relays to eliminate the LED flickering I'm getting on the OEM LED's I got from a 2018 JK Rubi. I've got a 2016 JK that came with standard lights and fogs. Some people say I should pay to have the computer flashed with the LED codes, but others say that's not necessarily e
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did you use the existing light source wiring as the trigger for the relays? I was thinking about using relays to eliminate the LED flickering I'm getting on the OEM LED's I got from a 2018 JK Rubi. I've got a 2016 JK that came with standard lights and fogs. Some people say I should pay to have the computer flashed with the LED codes, but others say that's not necessarily e
All of the lights I wired up were auxiliary lights. I used these on my LED headlights to kill the flicker: https://www.amazon.com/Truck-Lite-Headlamp-Anti-Flicker-Module-Harness/dp/B00F50T8GM
 

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Thanks for the idea, but I would need two of them and get the adapter for the headlight plug. Mine is like the newer ones three prongs in a row and oval
 

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Thanks for the idea, but I would need two of them and get the adapter for the headlight plug. Mine is like the newer ones three prongs in a row and oval
Most people use a pair of them.
 

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Thanks for the idea, but I would need two of them and get the adapter for the headlight plug. Mine is like the newer ones three prongs in a row and oval
It may be as simple as getting the feature code updated at the dealer. There were posts where other who had gotten the take off Mopar factory LED headlights from 2016 to 2018 JKs and installed them in prior year JKs. I do know that the entire front end is LED if the lights came from the factory. Not only the head lights, but the fog lights, front marker lights and the turn signals are all LED. Of course it's possible that the entire front light wiring system is different when the JK comes with LEDs.

If your lights are full illumination, then the PWM adapter previously listed would work if ganged with an H4 to H13 adaper. Be careful for most are H13 to H4.

Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/H13-Adapter-PAIR-Conversion-Motorcycle/dp/B01A89762W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526619333&sr=8-3&keywords=H4+male+to+H13+female+adapter

I don't know about the quality. When I had to get H13 to H4 to mount the ecode headlights in my Sahara, I went with a cheap set which would not plug up right (pins kept moving out of the socket) so had to replace with a set by KC Hi-Lite. But they don't show an H4 to H13.
 

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Nicely done Derf! There's a lot to be said for the feeling of accomplishment you get from a nice DIY job. Maybe that's a Jeep thing too?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nicely done Derf! There's a lot to be said for the feeling of accomplishment you get from a nice DIY job. Maybe that's a Jeep thing too?
Yeah. But I forgot rule #1 when it comes to vehicle electronics.

Always check your grounds first.

The switches are wired up to light up only when you turn on the one switch.

What I saw this weekend was that when I turned one switch on, all the lights turned on.

So I took apart the switch panel and rewired it. Out of the Jeep, I hooked it up to a battery and the switches worked exactly as they should. I plugged it in and then got some weird behavior. Moving the wiring bundle around would cause some of the other lights to come on an off.

Sure enough, the screw I used to ground the switches was loose. Tightened it up and it all worked perfectly. So that was a couple hours down the drain. :pullinghair:

I'm sure @lindel would scold me for forgetting that lesson.

Always. Always check your grounds first. Every time.
 

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There's a member here who has something like "it only cost a little bit more to DIY". Still, I'm proud to say that I have done all of the mods on my Jeep, except the new gears.

Besides, now you know more! :)
 

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There's a member here who has something like "it only cost a little bit more to DIY". Still, I'm proud to say that I have done all of the mods on my Jeep, except the new gears.

Besides, now you know more! <img src="http://www.wranglerforum.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />
I was lucky enough to have help doing my own gears. So I've done pretty much everything on this Jeep (once I drove it off the lot) except mount and balance the tires.
 

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Since the Spod switch panels connect using standard CAT5 you can really put them anywhere. I made a mount for mine



Here is my coms and navigation panel.




I did make a DIY version but needed a few specialized options that I didn't have the skills for. In the end the 2nd spod was what I went with and saved some space



sPOD SE vs their new Bantam








 
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