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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all!

First post, please be gentle.

This has been covered here and there, but I was unable to find anything very recent.

After being overly excited by receiving my mirror relocation mounts in preparation for doors-off season, I managed to strip the head of a torx bolt directly in front of the door mirror. After one, I didn't progress further.

Should I extract the stripped bolt with an impact driver and remove the remaining bolts with the same driver, or are there more recent tricks?

Should I replace with oem torx bolts, or move on to the stainless her-head bolts?

And meanwhile, I'll keep chasing that clunk when driving over small bumps, and trying to get used to the transmission rattle when it's idling in neutral and my foot is off the clutch. (suggestions welcome!)

Thanks for being so welcoming!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I should add..

This is an "02 sport, and that I'm brand new to the Jeep family. It's thrilling to be back into a vehicle that isn't over-engineered!
 

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What I like to do when removing torx bolts, especially the ones that have seen elements, use a big ratchet for leverage. Go very slow when turning the ratchet, this will help element stripped out heads. If you can, take the torx bit, place it in the torx bolt head, use a hammer to lightly tap the bit into the head then put your ratchet on.
 

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I've pulled these out on a few TJs now, and stripped at least one each time. Once I've felt the bolt start to strip, I stopped, pulled out a torch and heated it up. Backed out very easily after that.
 

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I use a clean soldering iron to heat up the bolt without ruining the surrounding paint, then use a torx bit in an impact driver, the kind of manual impact screw driver you hit with a hammer.
If the head is stripped, I still use the soldering iron to heat up the bolt and loosen up the lock tight, then I use a center punch and hammer on the face of the screw to get it to turn out.
 

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Like others have said, tap the bit in the head before you start to remove. Heat is your friend to deal with the locktite. Slow, steady pressure when removing or you absolutely will strip it.

Your clunking sound is likely coming from a bad sway bar end link or a bad control arm bushing. Could be several other things, and there are a lot of threads about it on here that will guide you on your way, but the end links and CA bushings is where I would look first. Don't know what to tell you about the tranny rattle, but I'm sure there are plenty of folks here willing to offer input. Welcome to the forums.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the replies and advice everyone!

I'm a bit scared to try to use heat, but that may be the way to go. Maybe an impact driver?
 

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A good solder gun with the tip directly on the fastener head puts the heat only where you want it

Not some wimpy iron for tiny circuits but a good high output gun

Much more control of where heat goes than a torch or heat gun


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 
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