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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, just finally, got my Jeep project done (pictures to follow), start up, sounds great, other than needing to replace my throw out bearing (wish I did it before I put the engine back in:banghead:)
Anyway, I put a weber 32/36 on it, followed all the directions that I have gotten from Redline, and the vacuum diagram here on WF). Set the HEI distro to 8 BTDC, and set the carb in accordance with the instructions.
However, I cannot get over 55 mph. I took it to get inspected, which it passed with flying colors:dance:. But because of the issues I had with trying to get it tuned, I figured I would let the Jeep guru at the mechanic to do the final tuning. Turns out he quit a few months earlier, and the "replacement" mechanic, told me I had everything wrong and that I shouldn't try and do the complicated stuff and leave it to the experts (of course the entire American population is a bunch of idiots, at least in his opinion).

Anyway, after his $400 worth of fiddling he got me a whopping 2 extra MPH, and told me it wasn't going to be any better and I should just deal with it. Lots of colorful words later, I am driving my Jeep home and starting from scratch.

What the "Heck" do I need to do to get the Weber 32/36 dialed in to get highway speeds. I have a brand new 258, CRT dizzy, everything under the hood is not original and has been replaced with new stuff.

please help! I'm near Kings Dominion Va, and if there is anyone out there willing to come over and help, I am all appreciative. :wavey:
 

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Is the throttle cable too long now? Try to shorten it up on the gas pedal end. - vise grip or a big lead split sinker for temporary use. Take it out and try it. After changing out my carb and re-rigging the throttle linkage i had that problem. I hacksawed a fishing lead sinker in half and then pinched it back together on the cable. Still on there and it works!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The throttle cable is okay. I did check that, it opens the throttle all the way to the stops. I was told by the "ever so polite mechanic", that the carb is not getting enough fuel and that my pressure drops from 3.5 to 1 as you rev it up. I do not have an electric fuel pump on it yet, but does it really have to have the electric fuel pump? I was also told that the fuel filter that sends the excess back to the tank is taking too much fuel over the main. So if anyone out there has pictures of the electric fuel pump set-up, I would appreciate it.
 

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Is the return line at the 12 oclock position on the filter? Is the filter new? Where are you measuring the fuel pressure? The mechanical pump should be putting out a lot more than 3psi but supposedly that is what the Weber should have coming in to it. If the diaphram is bad in your pump you could be putting raw gas into your crankcase which is a very bad thing. Pull the dipstick and see if it smells of gas.

You can also replace the dual port filter with a regular single port by plugging the vent line but if you have emission inspection, that may be a no no. Some guys have reported improved performance with the single port.
 

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The throttle cable is okay. I did check that, it opens the throttle all the way to the stops. I was told by the "ever so polite mechanic", that the carb is not getting enough fuel and that my pressure drops from 3.5 to 1 as you rev it up. I do not have an electric fuel pump on it yet, but does it really have to have the electric fuel pump? I was also told that the fuel filter that sends the excess back to the tank is taking too much fuel over the main. So if anyone out there has pictures of the electric fuel pump set-up, I would appreciate it.
You dont need an electric fuel pump on it to make it run better. I think your ever so bitchy mechanic isnt as much of a mechanic as he thinks he is.

If your fuel pressure is dropping off when the rpm's climb, then i would think that the fuel pump is going bad.

Mine is a mechanical pump and it delivers fuel to a 4bbl carb on a 4.2L motor. It has absolutely no problem with keeping up with however much gas that the carb needs. I run a pretty constant 11 lbs coming off the pump, but , because of the expansion of the hoses and the restriction from the filter, i get about 8-8.5 lbs at the carb.

The older chevy 350's all run a mechanical pump and never missed a beat.
 

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Do you have Emission check where you live ? If not look up "Nutter Bypass" it will eliminate a ton of vacume lines and will help out with Idleing I did the entire process in one evening and it helped my 32/36 run alot smoother because the stock Carb was computer controlled therefore the comp is still sending signals to your other control unit (the one on the driverside inner fender well under the brake booster ) cant remember the technical name for this unit atm . as far as your lack of fuel pressure I have a mechanical fuel pump that puts out over 7 lbs . If I remember right the 32/36 calls for 3.5 so I installed a fuel pressure regulator made by holley and is mounted on the fender well inline between the fuel pump and carb (pre filter). It sounds like your fuel pump is going bad
 

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^^^^ also needs correcting. OP is running a hei ignition, a 1 wire setup that eliminates the computer and the need for the nutter bypass.
 
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