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So I noticed my ABS/Traction Control lights will randomly turn on as well as the "duck" light (I think it's the hill assist button). It's happened a few times - the first, on our gravel driveway with fallen leaves so thought, "Oh, just think the road is slippery" but the next time was on pavement/asphalt. I noticed the Jeep didn't seem to have "umph" power and all those lights were on. Thought maybe i was out of gear as I've played with 4-wheel drive here and there so put it in neutral (I think) or maybe park and put it back into drive and all was good. I think the lights have come up once or twice but I have not noticed a difference in power on those go arounds.

I thought it might be a wiring issue since the "duck" light turns on too sometimes and but seeing a post re: wheel sensors, now I'm not sure. Suggestions?

Additional info in case it's relevant...she's a 2014 Sahara, 46k miles (just hit that on the 1st of Oct. Waaa!). Bought used so we are the 3rd owners and based on how she looks, is pretty much still stock. Carfax did say there was a "wreck" involving the radiator. You can see radiator fluid dried up but it also looks like everything was fixed to be as it should. Hubby can fix mechanical but he thought this sounded electrical and bodes bad news for my new toy. :( :beerme:
 

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Mine (2015 Rubicon HR manual transmission,75,000 miles) just started the same yesterday. I thought it was just a shallow pot hole or something.

Then today it happened again at a much slower speed on good asphalt, then again backing out of a parking stall at a slow speed.

I'm assuming it is a bad sensor (I thought maybe a wire) as it is all one peice.
No codes (C1247?), no limp mode. I tried as best I could to get all the mud out from arounf the wheel assy after my last wheeling trip too.

Guess it is off to the dealer for a checkup so we can determine the affected sensor(s).
 

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For the ABS/ESC light, my first suspect is steering wheel being off center. Is it straight & centered when you are driving in a straight line?


Is there a possibility the PO's crash may have left the alignment off?


If the steering is off center, then the ESC thinks the vehicle is skidding/sliding when it isn't and activates the ESC.
 

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For the ABS/ESC light, my first suspect is steering wheel being off center. Is it straight & centered when you are driving in a straight line?
Is there a possibility the PO's crash may have left the alignment off?
If the steering is off center, then the ESC thinks the vehicle is skidding/sliding when it isn't and activates the ESC.

Would the wheel off center throw a code? My lights just came on and Jscan is showing rear wheel sensor. Im going to clean it though in case something is in there since this only started after my first wheeling trip. My steering wheel is also slightly off center as well.



If op is rear speed sensor, then yeah, they are a simple fix. small probe held on by 8mm bolt, if I recall correctly. Front may be different
 

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Yes, rear is 8mm and you can easily remove it. Unplug the connection first, right at the sensor. Then use an extension and taking the 8mm bolt off is easy. Then twist the sensor a bit to free it and pull it out.

If the steering wheel is off center, that also will set off all the lights and have the brakes trying to "fix" that problem. The drag link has an adjuster and you can simply adjust that to get the wheel back to center.
 

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I've had this problem intermittently for about 6 months. Replaced all of the sensors and it went away. It pops back up if the wheel gets off center. Most recently it happened because I didn't secure the wires out of the way and they got smashed and cut between the axle and bump stop.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Buy a code reader that includes ABS/TCS codes. The cheaper ones don’t. The reader will give you a code that specifies which wheel sensor is bad. Or, just replace all the sensors. You can get all four for about $70. The rears are easy to replace. The fronts are more involved and will require more tools. Maybe just do the rears and hopefully get lucky.
 

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Buy a code reader that includes ABS/TCS codes. The cheaper ones don’t. The reader will give you a code that specifies which wheel sensor is bad. Or, just replace all the sensors. You can get all four for about $70. The rears are easy to replace. The fronts are more involved and will require more tools. Maybe just do the rears and hopefully get lucky.
Not really more tools. They just come with a wiring harness that is a bit tougher to find and plug in.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Buy a code reader that includes ABS/TCS codes. The cheaper ones don’t. The reader will give you a code that specifies which wheel sensor is bad. Or, just replace all the sensors. You can get all four for about $70. The rears are easy to replace. The fronts are more involved and will require more tools. Maybe just do the rears and hopefully get lucky.
Not really more tools. They just come with a wiring harness that is a bit tougher to find and plug in.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
I would be interested to hear how you replace the front sensors without jacking up the front, removing the wheel, caliper, rotor, and dust shield. Especially how you do all that without more tools than required for the rear sensors. Post pics please.
 

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I have had intermittent issues like described here. I bought myself a jscan license. Most useful thing I've bought in years. First, I drove just down my driveway and see that the left front wheel sensor reads zero with the rest at matched speed.

Now, I pull the wheel, caliper, rotor. 5mm hex undone. A bit of pb blaster to help loosen up and use some vice grips to wiggle the sensor out. In my case, the sensor end is all covered with crap. Here's where the jscan really pays for itself. I clean the sensor well, use my compressor to blast air into the hole to clean anything that might be in there and wiggle the sensor back in. Now with my phone showing the wheel speeds, I turn the hub. It registers 1 mph. I now know that I don't have to replace the sensor. I know the connector on the back of the shock mount area is a real pain in the ass to get off and on. Put the whole thing back together and retest on the driveway (my driveway's 800 feet long). All's good. Lights are now all off. Besides the jscan and obd to bluetooth adapter, it cost me nothing but some pb out of the can and some contact cleaner on the sensor.
 

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I have had intermittent issues like described here. I bought myself a jscan license. Most useful thing I've bought in years. First, I drove just down my driveway and see that the left front wheel sensor reads zero with the rest at matched speed.

Now, I pull the wheel, caliper, rotor. 5mm hex undone. A bit of pb blaster to help loosen up and use some vice grips to wiggle the sensor out. In my case, the sensor end is all covered with crap. Here's where the jscan really pays for itself. I clean the sensor well, use my compressor to blast air into the hole to clean anything that might be in there and wiggle the sensor back in. Now with my phone showing the wheel speeds, I turn the hub. It registers 1 mph. I now know that I don't have to replace the sensor. I know the connector on the back of the shock mount area is a real pain in the ass to get off and on. Put the whole thing back together and retest on the driveway (my driveway's 800 feet long). All's good. Lights are now all off. Besides the jscan and obd to bluetooth adapter, it cost me nothing but some pb out of the can and some contact cleaner on the sensor.
Once you’ve done all that work, why not replace the 15 dollar sensor while you’re at it?
 

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Once you’ve done all that work, why not replace the 15 dollar sensor while you’re at it?
From what I've read, these things get dirty and act this way pretty often. Once cleaned up the original sensor looks as good as the new one. I'm sure either way, in another 30k miles (what's on my Jeep), it'll be crapped up again.
 

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There shouldn't be anything in there to build up on it, other than maybe a little grease from assembly. Sounds like one of your unit bearing seals is failing.


When I pulled mine, it was clean, just not working. Looked perfect. Just an internal failure somewhere in the sensor, wire, or connector. Solid state electronics are like that... (unless the smoke has escaped. Then it's usually pretty obvious!)
 

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So... I have had this issue on my '07 JKU for going on 3+ years now. Here is the list of things that have been done to "fix" it and I still have the issue.
Multiple alignments
Speed sensors changed
ABS module changed and reprogrammed
New clockspring
Sterring wheel set
Suspension checked
Switched to stock tires/wheels w/programming to set speedo... switched back to my 35's.
NO CODES at ALL
All dash lights are currently on after 3 days of starting it, left the drive way, traction control kicked on hard, lights lit, and now they don't turn off.

Anyone have any ideas? Multiple shops haven't found the issue including the dealership.
 

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When you say no codes at all, what are you reading it with? I tried the normal options when mine started misbehaving, but found that the common methods of reading codes didn't show anything. This is because the ABS system is not queried by the built in method or by basic code readers. I had to get a Bluedriver, which can query all the computers, not just the main one to find the problem sensor, as it and a few other more expensive ones can query the ABS module as well. Although, the dealer should be able to query it & find anything there.


From what you have written, I'd lean towards a wiring issue between a sensor & the ABS module. Has the loom between the sensors & ABS module been checked?
 

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When you say no codes at all, what are you reading it with? I tried the normal options when mine started misbehaving, but found that the common methods of reading codes didn't show anything. This is because the ABS system is not queried by the built in method or by basic code readers. I had to get a Bluedriver, which can query all the computers, not just the main one to find the problem sensor, as it and a few other more expensive ones can query the ABS module as well. Although, the dealer should be able to query it & find anything there.


From what you have written, I'd lean towards a wiring issue between a sensor & the ABS module. Has the loom between the sensors & ABS module been checked?
It is being read by one of those expensive ones that my shop probably paid too much for. They have driven it and all wheels are reading correctly while the traction control is kicking in. They hve checked everything so far.

I just heard about a new update from the dealer (about 6 months old) that is supposed to take care of this. Now to call them and see if I can get this update... hopefully for not too much out of the wallet. I have put too much money into this one issue.

I will try to update you guys when I find out.
 

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Chased a similar problem on my wife's 2015 JKU Rubicon. Pulled the electric sway bar disconnect and put in a manual knob control. No more random ESC/ABS lights. Im guessing the disco motor wasn't keeping the sway bar locked allowing just enough difference in angle to set off the lights. No codes were ever thrown.
 
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