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***I'll start by saying this was done with my aftermarket alarm - I have not tried it with a stock alarm although I believe it's possible. If you are in the OKC area and want to do it, let me know if you want my help and we'll add it to this thread. If you do it, please feel free to add to this, as I'm just guessing on how it will work for a factory alarm.***

Adding a hood pin alarm trigger to an aftermarket alarm system. I haven't looked into adding this into a stock alarm system, but if you have, please feel free to add notes. I know someone has added a motion sensor into the stock alarm system, so it may be easy to do.

** How to Assemble the Plug **

When you get the package with the plug components, the plug is not put together. The two purple wires already have a metal connector attached and it takes only a few minutes to put it together.

The plug has a grey top on it that isn't put together tight onto the black base. Give it a gentle but firm pull and the grey top will slide out of the base completely.

Take each wire and slide it into the top of the base and pull it through the entire connector. The metal connection needs to be wiggled a bit to get it to go into the base but will line up so the wider sides of the each connector slot are side by side. Check your alignment with the pin it plugs into.

Once both wires are flush with the black base, slide the grey top back into the base and push it down until it clicks together. The weatherproofing gasket will be a perfect fit if it's pushed in correctly.

You may want to add a little grease to the bottom where the wires come out, there is a silicone gasket there, but just a little more protection.

** Pin Modifications **

The pin itself needs a modification too. If you look into the base of the pin where the plug clips in, there's a resistor soldered at the top inside. That resistor keeps a circuit going. As it is, if you run power through it, an LED light that is wired up to it will go from bright (pin in) to dim (pin released). It doesn't completely go off. Once the resistor is removed, the LED goes off completely when the pin is released. (I used LEDs for testing only, it has nothing to do with how it's hooked up.)

To remove the resistor, we took a pair of heavy duty tweezers and pulled lightly until it came loose, it didn't take much.

** Installing the Bracket and Pin **

Slide the u-nut into place, and place the bracket over it then tighten it in place with the bolt.
The bracket will fit on the driver's side of the engine compartment, right above the horn.

Slide the pin into the TIPM slot on the bracket (nearest the bend). Make sure the two prongs fit snug on the sides and the wires hangs free underneath.

** Wiring the Pin **

The wiring on the pin is the same on each side. I took both wires and ran them up the driver's side of the engine bay. The first wire I attached to an o-ring, and then added it to the grounded post already on the driver's side about a foot behind the headlight.

On my aftermarket alarm it has a few wiring options. I tried the grounded hood pin it had listed, and the alarm wouldn't set with the hood up (good), but once it did set, I lifted the hood and it wouldn't trigger (no good). I ended up using the wiring diagram on my alarm that showed an “existing negative door pin switch - GM type”.

The other wire was attached to the wire run back to the alarm. I won't go into all the details. Basically I ran a new wire from the hood pin to the area I have my alarm's brain installed using 16 gauge wire, could have probably run 18 gauge but used what I had. For wiring, you will need to get this wire to the passenger footwell area under the glove box area with about 2 feet of wire to spare. You'll remove the plastic kick cover along the front door edge, and the tailgate wire for the door sensor. I suggest finding the tailgate wire, so when you take doors off it will still trigger. Or you can wire this in directly to the alarm wire between the doors and the plug - this is explained below.

My alarm is set up with each door pin wired individually, and each has a diode to prevent feedback. When a door is opened the alarm is triggered if set, and the dash will show the correct door open. I tested this line with the hood pin wire and it worked, so I added it to that lead in front of all the doors and tested it out, all is good, I did not add a diode to it because there is no feedback to any doors with the diodes in place already. Until there is someone that does this to a factory alarm and adds some notes - I cannot say whether a diode is even needed. I would personally wire it without to the tailgate line as I would remember if the tailgate 'door open' does light up on the dash, it could be the hood too.

You're done! Close the hood, set the alarm, and test it out. After the alarm is fully engaged, it should trigger if you open the hood. All it took for mine to go off (on my aftermarket alarm) was for me to undo the hood latches and lift the hood. I didn't even get as far as getting my finger under the edge to undo the latch.

** For those of you with stock remote start. **

You will already have this system installed in your Jeep as part of the remote start system you might be able to use the second slot in the bracket to add a secondary hood pin and hook it up like I explained above. Not sure it is will work right, the bracket may need to be bent to get both pins to stay closed properly on your hood. Maybe install a second bracket on the passenger side.. not sure, haven't looked into it. I would not try to wire into an existing hood pin for a remote start, it may cause the Jeep to not start or worse, just not something I would do.

Parts I bought from a dealer source :

6508601-AA U-bolt nut --- clips into existing hole on Jeep *
6104368-AA Bolt (hex) --- attaches bracket to u-bolt nut *
68067791-AA Bracket H
5026211-AA Switch
5017129-AA Wiring 2

This was not a cheap job. The parts from the dealer were about $90 and that was through a dealer warehouse. I suspect some dealers may charge even higher, so check around and online. I have bought through some dealers on eBay for far less than I could locally, I simply contacted them through an auction listing and asked about the part number I was looking for and they either listed it on eBay so I could buy it, or sold it directly to me. I felt having the install for this looking stock and clean was worth the cost in the end.

* dealer pricing was almost $14 for this nut and bolt, I suggest looking at Ace Hardware or such for a compatible U-bolt nut and bolt set.
 

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Reviving the thread.. found a source for parts for this project that is online and comes in a bit less too.

2015 JEEP WRANGLER SPORT 4x4, 3.6L V6 24V VVT, 5-Speed Auto W5A580 Remote Start

Parts 1, 3, 4, and 5 on this page - a subtotal of $34.52

That leaves the wiring which I found here for $11.45 -

WIRING-2 WAY | Genuine Mopar | 5017129AA

Prices have dropped since I did this project so maybe others might consider it now, a additional $45 or so isn't too bad. I was also reminded of mine today when I unlatched the hood and stuck my finger under it with the alarm on - yep it works.
 
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