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Discussion Starter #1
I've posted on general about general +'s and -'s on adding a locker to my sport, but now I am wondering about this.

If I am running 35's on a Dana 30 with an E-Locker, am I asking for trouble? Will the pinion end up shredded? Would it be better to put the $1500+ I'll pay to lock and reinforce the axle towards an aftermarket D44 for moderate wheeling? It will cost me about 4200ish to add a ProRock44 with full gears, lockers, etc...which I would rather NOT do at the time, especially if the D30 can hold up to abuse of lockers and 35's
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I do like piece of mind...But the way I see it, these are the scenarios...
1. Buy the ProRock, spend $3900 + install. If this happens, If the D30 WAS going to break, I save myself $1500. Total, about $3900-$4200
2. Lock, sleeve, gusset, regear Dana30 and spend $1500. Nothing breaks. Total $1500...Save $2800ish
3. Lock, sleeve, gusset, regear Dana 30 and it breaks, buy prorock, lose $1500 plus spending an additional $3900 + install. Total $5400 + install

So peace of mind costs $2800. If the D30 is unlikely to break with moderate wheeling, I'd rather take the risk. If there is a lot of cases of D30 pinions being shredded when locked, I'd like the piece of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I suppose if I keep the stock axle shafts the weak point will be the shaft and not the R&P...Then I can upgrade and salvage the lockers
 

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You can use a $250 Aussie Locker that works just fine if you really want an inexpensive reliable locker instead of putting out for a new carrier. Just another option if you don't want to put much into it. It's easy for some to say just buy a ______ for piece of mind, but it's not always an option or else we'd all be running 60/80s. Moderate wheeling and not bouncing on obstacles will be fine. The 30 will not handle abuse, but nor will the 44. Good driving habits and knowing when to lay off is more important than conquering the hard line when it comes to not breaking. I would not hesitate locking a D30 for moderate wheeling. I have about $1500 in mine and it's been going on 4 years now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You can use a $250 Aussie Locker that works just fine if you really want an inexpensive reliable locker instead of putting out for a new carrier. Just another option if you don't want to put much into it. It's easy for some to say just buy a ______ for piece of mind, but it's not always an option or else we'd all be running 60/80s. Moderate wheeling and not bouncing on obstacles will be fine. I $would not hesitate locking a D30 for moderate wheeling. I have about $1500 in mine and it's been going on 4 years now.
If I didn't do a lot of snow and ice driving I would consider an Aussie. You are right though. A prorock would be a little pricey now considering I'll also be locking the rear and regearing
 

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Yea, I live in Colorado and had to get used to the Aussie when in the snow. On street snow though I always have it in 2wd until I need it in which I just make minor adjustments to account for the locker. If you are locking the rear and re-gearing, then maybe just leave the front open for now and see how that does. It should already make a big difference in itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yea, I live in Colorado and had to get used to the Aussie when in the snow. On street snow though I always have it in 2wd until I need it in which I just make minor adjustments to account for the locker. If you are locking the rear and re-gearing, then maybe just leave the front open for now and see how that does. It should already make a big difference in itself.
That's an idea. Just lock the rear and wait on the front until I can go with a bigger axle, or see if I even need the front locker. If I did that I'd probably not regear though because if I regear, I need to open the front axle as well, and if that's getting opened then a lockers going in. The front elocker is only about $795. To regear I'm looking at $375 per axle for install plus the gears.
 

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Unless you are really hammering on the Jeep and jumping it, etc., I wouldn't hesitate to run 35" tires on a locked beefed D30 such as you stated above. Then, *when* ;) you go bigger on tire size, you will have a somewhat valuable axle to sell to help recoup the cost and pay for the bigger front end.
 

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There's a lot of "hype" about the D30 spitting its guts out at the first sign of trouble. This used to be VERY true with the low-pinion D30, but you have a high-pinion D30 with reverse rotation. YES...the ring and pinion in the D30 are considerably smaller than those in the D44. If you are careful how you wheel, you should be just fine. Wanna add some strength to the ring and pinion itself? Have them cryogenically treated.

The Aussie locker is a good recommendation. Tough lunchbox locker, inexpensive, no carrier swap. I would definitely keep stock-style axle shafts. Make that your weak point, and keep a set of spares when you wheel.

I feel that for running 35's you should definitely gusset your C's. They're the same C's as on the stock D44 found in the Rubicon, along with many other components, and C gussets are extremely inexpensive for the return you'll get in prevention. Truss or sleeve? Up to you. Same axle tubes as the Rubicon, just not the same center section/differential housing. Truss and sleeves are inexpensive, as far as parts cost, but may be a bit high if you have to have someone do the installation for you (I have no idea what it would cost in your area...definitely get several quotes if you need them installed for you).

If you're easy on the skinny pedal, do a few smart upgrades to your D30, it should last a long time running 35's with some moderate wheeling.
 

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Personally I would take the $1500 and put it towards an aftermarket 44. Of course it's more expensive but it's also totally reversible down the road if you want to sell and it's something that is strong and you really won't have to worry about when you are on the trails. While I do agree if you are easy on it the 30 will probably be fine, I tend to err on the side of caution.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Personally I would take the $1500 and put it towards an aftermarket 44. Of course it's more expensive but it's also totally reversible down the road if you want to sell and it's something that is strong and you really won't have to worry about when you are on the trails. While I do agree if you are easy on it the 30 will probably be fine, I tend to err on the side of caution.
Yeah. It's a tough call. If I were to get an aftermarket at $4K, I'd still have to regear and lock my rear which would be another $2k. That puts me in Rubicon territory. Granted, the aftermarket axle would be stronger, but I'd have a difficult time recovering that on a future sale unless I sold it independent and put the stock axle back on.
 

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Yeah. It's a tough call. If I were to get an aftermarket at $4K, I'd still have to regear and lock my rear which would be another $2k. That puts me in Rubicon territory. Granted, the aftermarket axle would be stronger, but I'd have a difficult time recovering that on a future sale unless I sold it independent and put the stock axle back on.
You can buy stock geared rear 44's for a dime a dozen so if necessary you could put stock axles back in it and sell the PR44 and re-geared rear 44 seperately. Keep in mind a PR44 is also way stronger and more desirable than a stock Rubi front 44.

If you are not doing labor yourself it's tougher to recoup costs and would probably just try to get another few thousand out of the Jeep sale.
 

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I am running 37s...going to put the elocker in w my gears soon. My boss runs the same setup...we rock climb. No issues with the d30. As every one says, it's all about throttle control. Even the "built" axles we'll break with to much throttle. Yes keep the stock shafts the weak point.
 

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Take a look at this...

I knew about this from blowing up three 9" rear ends drag racing. I was told about this treatment by a guy who ran a couple pro mods and figured I had nothing to lose. Never broke another ring and pinion. Twisted a couple Strange axles and broke a drive shaft but the ring and pinion and some other parts I had treated never broke.

Take your gear sets and have them cryo treated. It is said to improve the strength of the metal parts treated by 100%:jawdrop:. This should make your 30 ring and pinion similar in strength as a 44. I am in the process of building my front axle and without concern I am adding a Yukon zip locker, 4:56 gears (cryo treated), Ten Factory axles, Synergy sleeves and C-gussets. I won't do anything to intentionally brake my front diff assy but I have no intention on being gentle with it either.

See article link...

Cryogenic Gear Treatment - Four Wheeler Magazine
 

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Take a look at this...

I knew about this from blowing up three 9" rear ends drag racing. I was told about this treatment by a guy who ran a couple pro mods and figured I had nothing to lose. Never broke another ring and pinion. Twisted a couple Strange axles and broke a drive shaft but the ring and pinion and some other parts I had treated never broke.

Take your gear sets and have them cryo treated. It is said to improve the strength of the metal parts treated by 100%:jawdrop:. This should make your 30 ring and pinion similar in strength as a 44. I am in the process of building my front axle and without concern I am adding a Yukon zip locker, 4:56 gears (cryo treated), Ten Factory axles, Synergy sleeves and C-gussets. I won't do anything to intentionally brake my front diff assy but I have no intention on being gentle with it either.

See article link...

Cryogenic Gear Treatment - Four Wheeler Magazine
Been a while... How has this held up for you?
 

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How much to treat the R&P gears?
 

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I would contact Yukon Gear and see if they still Cryo their gears. I was told that at one time all their gears were Cryo’d for strength.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Been a while... How has this held up for you?
So a little change to the post. I went with an ARB locker instead of the Zip. Other than that I ran that axle for a year with 35s with no problems. I took out the 4.56 gear set for a set of 4.88s that I also cryogenic treated and stepped up to 37x 13.5 Nitto Mud Graps. I ran that for a year and again had no issues. Like I said in my other post I didn’t go out and hammer down every obstacle but the combination took quite a beating. I did eventually swap out to a Teraflex 44 that I built and also Cryo treated the gears! Haha... I did put the 4.56 gears back in the Dana 30 and my buddy has been running the axle pretty hard for the last year with a set of 315/70/17 STT Pros. Still haven’t broken a gear set but did break a universal in the passenger axle shaft. Easy trail fix and kept wheeling.

I would have no worries with that axle and a set of 35s as long as you aren’t full time black/Red trails and you can lay off the skinny pedal. You can break anything if you want.
 

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How much to treat the R&P gears?
The most I paid was $115 after they quoted me $85. They said they had to clean the ring and pinion first and they also broke the sharp edges of the ring and pinion gear teeth with a stone. They say this step alone minimizes fracture points on the ring and pinion. Sort of like having a set of rods shot peened.
 
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