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Discussion Starter #1
On AEV's website they claim the 3.5" Dualsport suspension kit has superior performance on and off-road (Especially onroad) vs the 2.5".

In looking at the parts included in each kit, the difference I see is the inclusion of the geometry brackets (which can be added to the 2.5) and the high steer kit (not needed on the 2.5).

I think the case for better off-road performance is fairly evident.

Besides the included geometry brackets and the high steer kit, what makes the 3.5" kit dramatically a better on-road performer. While it is only 1", a higher COG and better on-road performance seems counter intuitive.

Are the springs and shocks different/better and not just longer in the 3.5 kit? Does the high steer kit ad a performance upgrade?

Thanks!
 

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I have had both on a 2016 Rubicon 2 door and I will say the 3.5” really was nice. It would be my choice if I went that way again.
 

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On AEV's website they claim the 3.5" Dualsport suspension kit has superior performance on and off-road (Especially onroad) vs the 2.5".

In looking at the parts included in each kit, the difference I see is the inclusion of the geometry brackets (which can be added to the 2.5) and the high steer kit (not needed on the 2.5).

I think the case for better off-road performance is fairly evident.

Besides the included geometry brackets and the high steer kit, what makes the 3.5" kit dramatically a better on-road performer. While it is only 1", a higher COG and better on-road performance seems counter intuitive.

Are the springs and shocks different/better and not just longer in the 3.5 kit? Does the high steer kit ad a performance upgrade?

Thanks!
The shocks on the 2.5 are really short... With the 3.5 they give you a shock that allows for significantly greater articulation.
 

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What else did you guys need to do with the 3.5 beyond the kit? New driveshafts? Also, what size tires did you go with on the 3.5? 37’s?

I have the 2.5 on now with 35’s, but I’m constantly debating the cost vs fun factor of the 3.5 and 37’s. But I’d have to re-gear, bolster my D44’s, upgrade tie rod and ball joints, probably change driveshafts, etc. to do it right.


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Discussion Starter #5
I also have 2.5 with 35s. I will be adding weight to the vehicle in the coming year (Rack, tent, fridge and camping gear) so I'm interested in that weight management as well as added clearance, but I really like the idea of better onroad performance. I have 30F/44R with 35s now. My understanding is I need nothing other than the 3.5" kit. No need for new driveshaft, but moving to 37s from 35 you may need to regear. I plan to regear also since I am on 35s with 3.73 now
 

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no need for anything else. I ran Toyo 35's on AEV rims as well as 285/75-17 on stock rims (I usually have two sets of tires) the geo brackets actually have another function other than caster correction they make life on your driveshaft easier.
 
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no need for anything else. I ran Toyo 35's on AEV rims as well as 2895/75-17 on stock rims (I usually have two sets of tires) the geo brackets actually have another function other than caster correction they make life on your driveshaft easier.


Great to know about the geo brackets - thank you!


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this is with 3.5

 

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Amazing how 1” more lift gets you that much more articulation. Great flex, looks awesome!


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Amazing how 1” more lift gets you that much more articulation. Great flex, looks awesome!


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it is because the coil free length and shocks are so much longer. 2.5 has like 24.5 long shocks and 3.5 27.5 long shocks. here is the 2.5 on the wall on golden spike.
 

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Night and day difference! Time to start saving the pennies...


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I think it’s the high steer kit that gives it the nice on-road manners.

I’ve got a two door with the 3.5 DS kit, 35s and stock fenders.

You’ll also need exhaust spacers and you’ll want quick disconnects

Here’s mine loaded down with a ton of weight.
Steel bumpers
Engine, Trans, Xfer, LCA steel skids
Steel sliders
Winch
HEAVY gear bag
Full tank of gas
Hard top
105lb wheel/tire spare
Big heavy steel tire carrier
 

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Looks great. Thanks for the info!

I’m good on disco’s, but I definitely need the exhaust spacer. I run a JKUR, steel bumpers, Rubi rock rails and Barricade sliders since the fit with the Rubi rock rails, hard top, fairly heavy gear bag (around 90lbs with straps and tools). I don’t have all of the under armor yet, either, but I really don’t do much with rocks. I do have front skid and Rancho oil pan skid.


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Discussion Starter #14
Good stuff. Thanks. I'll be saving my pennies too. Hopefully I can sell the 2.5" for something to cut down the cost.

Between the 3.5 kit, re-gearing and the need for new tires next year....going to be an expensive year.
 

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FYI: I still have 3.73s with my 35s and its bearable. After the lift, wheels/tires, and tire carrier it would kill me to spend any more so Ive put off the re-gear and taking time to contemplate lockers. What I'm getting at is that 3.73s w/ 35s are livable (a hell of a long way from ideal but livable). 3.21s, theres no way...
 

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On AEV's website they claim the 3.5" Dualsport suspension kit has superior performance on and off-road (Especially onroad) vs the 2.5".

In looking at the parts included in each kit, the difference I see is the inclusion of the geometry brackets (which can be added to the 2.5) and the high steer kit (not needed on the 2.5).

I think the case for better off-road performance is fairly evident.

Besides the included geometry brackets and the high steer kit, what makes the 3.5" kit dramatically a better on-road performer. While it is only 1", a higher COG and better on-road performance seems counter intuitive.

Are the springs and shocks different/better and not just longer in the 3.5 kit? Does the high steer kit ad a performance upgrade?

Thanks!
I run an AEV 3.5 kit and it has worked great. The geometry brackets are the key to the compliant on road handling (Other manufacturers offer similar products so it's not just an AEV thing and they are used to correct your drive line geometry without having to add adjustable control arms and gives it a stock like ride). I ran on stock drive shafts and 37's until I did my engine swap so no need to replace. The drive angle is aggressive, but had no issues on the rocks or sand. Just watch your DS boots for leaks.
 

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FYI: I still have 3.73s with my 35s and its bearable. After the lift, wheels/tires, and tire carrier it would kill me to spend any more so Ive put off the re-gear and taking time to contemplate lockers. What I'm getting at is that 3.73s w/ 35s are livable (a hell of a long way from ideal but livable). 3.21s, theres no way...


I still run 3.73 with 35s as well and it is fine for the most part. But I would like to get 4.56s in there eventually, because like you said, it’s the difference between livable and ideal.


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I run an AEV 3.5 kit and it has worked great. The geometry brackets are the key to the compliant on road handling (Other manufacturers offer similar products so it's not just an AEV thing and they are used to correct your drive line geometry without having to add adjustable control arms and gives it a stock like ride). I ran on stock drive shafts and 37's until I did my engine swap so no need to replace. The drive angle is aggressive, but had no issues on the rocks or sand. Just watch your DS boots for leaks.


I’ve got the geo brackets with my 2.5, so all good. IIRC I still have plenty of adjustment for going to 3.5. I appreciate the info on the ability to run 37s on stock driveshafts as well, good thought on watching the boots. Much appreciated!


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I have the AEV 3.5 and it is fabulous on the road, on the trail and in the rocks. I have 285/75R17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W for the winter performance. My Jeep is a lightweight (4500 lbs) so I actually got 4.5 out of the lift. I switched to Adams drive shafts and have 4.56 Spicer gears.
 

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Does AEV provide any path to upgrade from one to the other? I have the 2.5" kit but I also have the geo brackets and a Procal already. Is the track bar the same between the two kits? Any other components different?
 
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