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If you are not running larger than 37" tires I would stick to 1310. My preference is sealed joints. Also before going after a branded DC driveshaft check to see if you have a local driveline shop nearby. They are not uncommon. You might get a better deal there and warranty/balance issues can be addressed locally.
 
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I have an Adams 1350 in the front and have been very happy with it.

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I went with Adams 1310s.



When I was replacing mine, I asked my Jeep expert about the 1310 v 1350. His response was that it is not an easy choice. The 1350 is obviously a lot stronger, but if you do get something caught in a bind, the $20 1310 U-joint is a cheap and easy fix on the trail and can work as a planned fail point. Otherwise the breakage could occur in an axle shaft, gears, or in something that is much harder and expensive to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If you are not running larger than 37" tires I would stick to 1310. My preference is sealed joints. Also before going after a branded DC driveshaft check to see if you have a local driveline shop nearby. They are not uncommon. You might get a better deal there and warranty/balance issues can be addressed locally.
This is not a bad idea, I will look around socal and see what's nearby!
 

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I went with Adams 1310s.



When I was replacing mine, I asked my Jeep expert about the 1310 v 1350. His response was that it is not an easy choice. The 1350 is obviously a lot stronger, but if you do get something caught in a bind, the $20 1310 U-joint is a cheap and easy fix on the trail and can work as a planned fail point. Otherwise the breakage could occur in an axle shaft, gears, or in something that is much harder and expensive to replace.
I see that Adams prices their driveshafts better than Yukon or G2, are you happy with the quality and overall upgrade? What was the biggest difference you noticed after install?
 

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Thank you for this, I agree, do you have a brand preference?

Not really, when it comes to Jeep driveshafts there’s nothing special about them. I got mine through a local shop that has them made to their specs by Powertrain Industries.
 

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Another good brand is Tom Wood's.
 

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Olivers Driveline is who I went with and unless you are running D60's, go with 1310's.

Keep the weak link in the system something that can be easily repaired.

I popped a 1310 in my rear DS while wheeling in October. Got it off the trail with a bit of help and changed out the bad u joint that evening. It was ready for the trails when I turned in for the night. In my case, the U Joint popped because I bounced it hard on a rock when I slipped off it. A 1350 might have held enough to damage something much more difficult to repair 400 miles from home, on a weekend.
 

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Not really, when it comes to Jeep driveshafts there’s nothing special about them. I got mine through a local shop that has them made to their specs by Powertrain Industries.
This, exactly this. There is no special sauce when it comes to driveshafts. Only options. Like Tc case yoke, pinion yoke and sealed or greasable joints.

There are break out points though where some offerings differ from the pack. Some have thicker dom tubing for hardcore use. Some vendors like tatton offer shafts with teraflex high angle rzeppa joints.
 

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This is not a bad idea, I will look around socal and see what's nearby!
Oh you are in so cal. Lots of options there as tons of trucking. I'm central cal.
 

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Im going to go with the 1310 u-joint Yukon driveshaft, usa made, lifetime warranty, what else!!
 
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