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Discussion Starter #1
Good afternoon all.

I'm looking for some advice on mounting an ARB HO Air comp under the hood of my YJ. Most plate adaptors that i've seen for the YJ are for the I6 (and specify only the I6).

Is there anyone out there with a 2.5L that has mounted the ARB Air Comp under the hood of their YJ? If so, can you share how you did it, possibly with pics?

Cheers!
 

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Do yourself a favor an DON'T mount it under the hood. Under the passengers seat or in the rear beside the roll bar would be closer to the operating temperature of the compressor. MOST of the jeepers whining and crying about how much of a piece of crap ARB compressors are, mounted them under the hood, without a clue that ARB recommends 100% Duty Cycle at ROOM TEMPERATURES. I bought the portable twin and put it on the RF Passengers seat with a tube directing the AC onto it while it's running. I plan on making my investment last no less than 10 years before needing rebuilt. They have an overheat cutoff to prevent damage??? Yea RIGHT!!! Every time it cuts off, takes a year off of it's total life.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the tip. My main concern with mounting (outside of easy access) is basically keeping it out of sight, since it's my DD and I can't lock it up. How does it handle water/moisture in the passenger seat position? I feel like being that low might cause issues. I bought the middle of the line model (not the twin).
 

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cyberworm, if your compressor will fit inside a 50 cal. ammo can, you can secure the ammo can to the floor and then put a padlock and hasp on the can to keep the compressor secure. Lots of Jeepers mount an ammo can on the top of the rear wheelhouse.

I have a cheapo compressor that I carry in a plastic tub along with a few tools and some recovery gear that I throw in the back of my Jeep when I go off road.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I appreciate the advice given. Got around to actually looking under the hood to find someplace to mount to.

Funny enough I found this useless thing called a "jack" under my hood. Probably never need that! lmao. Turns out with just a wee bit of cutting, it made the perfect platform and position to mount the pump. High enough to avoid just about any water I'm likely to encounter, and a short run to the battery (as recommended by ARB for compressor longevity). As you can see, it's also far enough forward to avoid most heat issues since there's a lot of room, plus airflow.

It's only mounted up right now. I still have to get a switch block and mounting position in the cab to wire up to.

If anyone has a recommendation for a small 4 gang switch panel that fits that blank space below and to the right of the steering wheel (87 YJ) I'd love to hear it. I don't have (or plan to get) lockers, but having rocker switches for lights and PBS would be pretty rad.

Cheers!
 

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Just a thought here. I would highly recommend using not only the switch banks, but a relay system as well. If that's what you have and meant, then disregard. But if you want to have a better system using switches to run the relays keeps all the big heavy duty long power wires out of the cab, and you can run the power wiring shorter, and cleaner, and the switch wiring doesn't need to be the heavy duty stuff. Switches usually only need less than 5 amps, where as a light or air comp would need 20-40 amps. And, fuse all your powered accessories too. Just my 2 cents worth.
 

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Just a thought here. I would highly recommend using not only the switch banks, but a relay system as well. If that's what you have and meant, then disregard. But if you want to have a better system using switches to run the relays keeps all the big heavy duty long power wires out of the cab, and you can run the power wiring shorter, and cleaner, and the switch wiring doesn't need to be the heavy duty stuff. Switches usually only need less than 5 amps, where as a light or air comp would need 20-40 amps. And, fuse all your powered accessories too. Just my 2 cents worth.
Actually, that is my plan. I started poking around to find a switch bank on amazon, and seem to have found one that will work out. I was hoping maybe others could chime in as well if they've located switches in the same position. In addition to that, I found what seems to be a decent relay box that is waterproof, etc. That I can also locate near the air compressor/battery area to keep those runs short and tight, and do what you're suggesting, and keeping a simple run to the switches. :)
 

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Cyberworm, I used this one from Amazon. It has mounts for a different Jeep, but who cares, you can mount it anywhere. I mounted it to my fender well easily without even fabricating a special mount. The wire harness for the switch head unit is not as long as what I needed for my application, so I just made an extension. I tracked down the proper plugs for the ends, bought a CAT 6 cable 10 feet long, and the correct crimper for the plug inserts. All Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRO131G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07517JSZ3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07476C1LD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Konsait-Modd...93CC0BEBDNT&psc=1&refRID=41R59MW0W93CC0BEBDNT

I got the PC tool kit in case I needed to make more cables in the future, or other mods, so I can remove the pins from the connectors easily. The CAT5/6 cables are great to use to control the relays from the switches and they are small in diameter, and save space if you end up with a lot more switches. This is only if you need an extension, I mounted the switch unit above my rear view mirror and the factory cable would not reach with the relay unit all the way forward on the fender. And, I ran the extension around the windshield frame to keep it low visibility. Hope this helps, and Good Luck!
 
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