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Discussion Starter #1
My 13 JK Sport had a 2.5 TF lift. Which actually yielded 3.5 inches in the front. I recently swapped axles to a set that had fewer miles on them and already had 4.56 gears and lockers. After the swap, I noted my steering was floaty in the front end. I had alignment checked and it was all within spec, although my caster was a little shallow, around 3.6 degrees. And I later discovered my front axle was shifted over by an inch. The rear already had an adjustable track bar and was centered perfectly.

I believe my drag link was wearing out, and the axle swap just exacerbated the issue, causing the floaty feeling. So I upgraded my drag link, tie rod, added adjustable control arms top and bottom, and added an adjustable track bar.

After installation, I centered my axle side to side at ride height. Got lucky and nailed it first try. I also adjusted my lower control arms to bring my wheelbase back out to factory 95.5 inches. But I couldn't get the toe right and my steering wheel was still a LITTLE crooked, so I figured I would take it to Firestone for an alignment.

Love my local Firestone, but man they don't know how to adjust lifted/modded Jeeps. I told him don't touch the cam bolts on the lower control arms. Use the upper control arms adjustment to set my caster at 5 degrees. Well of course first thing they did was mess with the cam bolts in the lower control arms and wallered out one of the adjustment washers. Then because they had those so screwed up, they couldn't get caster right. They said every time they turned the end of the upper control arm, caster would jump up or down by 2 degrees!

I actually wound up under the Jeep with them in the shop, and it took me and two of their techs about two and a half hours to get the lower arms adjusted back where they should be and the cam bolts facing the right direction. I still have to replace one washer.

They would up having to keep it over night to finish the other adjustments in the morning, and it appears everything is where I want it. They made it right by giving me a FREE adjustment with a one year warranty. So it cost me nothing.

Just wanted to give advice...if you have adjustable control arms and want to use them instead of the factory cam bolt washers on the lower arms (which I don't trust), make sure your alignment shop is used to dealing with those. It's a common upgrade for us Jeepers, but not something the standard shop sees ever.

I'll post my numbers in a pic with the final adjustments. Caster on one side is 5.3° and 5.4° on the other side, but I can't see 0.1° difference causing an issue. It was the closest they could get them. My toe in look a LITTLE high, but I think it's still within spec. If I did the calculations right, it's 0.15 inch total toe in, which is a little over 1/8 of an inch. Camber of course can be adjusted and it's within spec anyway. I don't know what steer ahead or thrust is, but they look good. If anyone sees anything that needs adjustment, let me know.
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The caster is not really separately adjustable between left and right. You can try and adjust the arms to different lengths, but the reality is each side of the axle is connected to the other side by the axle. And the axle doesn't really have much give. So adjusting the control arms to different lengths one side to the other mainly just puts the bushings on the end of the arms into a bind.
I can't see what you toe is, but caster of around 5 degrees should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The caster is not really separately adjustable between left and right. You can try and adjust the arms to different lengths, but the reality is each side of the axle is connected to the other side by the axle. And the axle doesn't really have much give. So adjusting the control arms to different lengths one side to the other mainly just puts the bushings on the end of the arms into a bind.
I can't see what you toe is, but caster of around 5 degrees should be good.
Toe was given as .07° on the left and .06° on the right for a total of .13° toe in. I used on an online convertor for degrees to inches of toe, and based on tires' actual 33.25 inch diameter, that's 0.15-inches, just a bit over 1/8th of an inch.

And I couldn't really see HOW caster could vary side to side since it's a solid axle, so I'm assuming that 0.1° difference may just be a tolerance within their equipment. But even if it's just a bit of a bind on the bushings, it should be enough to cause any issue, you don't think?
 

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Toe was given as .07° on the left and .06° on the right for a total of .13° toe in. I used on an online convertor for degrees to inches of toe, and based on tires' actual 33.25 inch diameter, that's 0.15-inches, just a bit over 1/8th of an inch.

And I couldn't really see HOW caster could vary side to side since it's a solid axle, so I'm assuming that 0.1° difference may just be a tolerance within their equipment. But even if it's just a bit of a bind on the bushings, it should be enough to cause any issue, you don't think?
As long as the arms are adjusted to the same length you should be fine. But I am not sure on toe, that sounds slightly low. But if it drives fine, it should be fine.
 

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As long as the arms are adjusted to the same length you should be fine. But I am not sure on toe, that sounds slightly low. But if it drives fine, it should be fine.
I think toe is supposed to be between 1/16 and 1/8, is that correct? So I was thinking it actually sounded high. But it seems to drive fine. I'll have it rechecked when I get my new ball joints hopefully next week.
 

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I think toe is supposed to be between 1/16 and 1/8, is that correct? So I was thinking it actually sounded high. But it seems to drive fine. I'll have it rechecked when I get my new ball joints hopefully next week.
Some amount of cross caster is built in to the axle from the factory. It varies a bit and the tolerances aren't all that great. The goal is .1 to .2 higher on the passenger side to offset road crown. As for toe, those numbers should be great as long as it feels stable on the highway. I usually shoot for .08 to .10 per side, but less is better if it drives good.

Overall, that's a great alignment you have. 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Some amount of cross caster is built in to the axle from the factory. It varies a bit and the tolerances aren't all that great. The goal is .1 to .2 higher on the passenger side to offset road crown. As for toe, those numbers should be great as long as it feels stable on the highway. I usually shoot for .08 to .10 per side, but less is better if it drives good.

Overall, that's a great alignment you have. 👍

Awesome! Thank you!
 

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yup that is about spot on perfect. It would be more rare than not to have the caster the same.
 
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