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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone analyze these results from the dealer and let me know if they look within spec? I feel like I have a very slight pull to the right.

This is after I just installed the Teraflex 2.5 Coil Lift and 35s.

Thanks
 

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Red of course is out of spec. Geo brackets or adjustable front lower control arms or even tf sport control arms will get you in spec. The camber number on the left side is pretty normal and nothing to worry about.
 

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Pretty normal for a TF 2.5 without caster correction. Caster is low and rear axle is over compensated.

I would add either Rancho Geometry Correction Brackets or Synergy fixed lower control arms if you want to go the easy route or TF Alpine lower control arms if you are ok setting them up yourself.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...ncho-control-arm-geometry-correction-brackets

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...nufacturing-control-arms-front-lower-3in-lift

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/control-arms/1415500-teraflex-alpine-front-lower-flexarm-kit

I run the geo brackets and really like they way they make the Jeep drive, but my daughter has the Synergy arms and I dig how they are bent for max ground and tire clearance.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/new-rancho-rs62103-control-arm-bracket-kit-1809713.html

As for the rear axle, I suspect you have the rear track bar in the top hole on the new bracket... Move it to the bottom hole and it will improve your rear track. The only way to fix it completely is to put on a rear track bar that adjusts shorter than stock. This is common and it isn't really a problem unless you have OCD... Then you can correct it with a Superlift rear track bar for $123.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/16202_3005.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the input. I think I will do the rear track bar and some correction brackets.

Could this be part of the reason it feels like its pulling slightly to the left?

Do the #s seem ok overall as far as the toe etc?

Pretty normal for a TF 2.5 without caster correction. Caster is low and rear axle is over compensated.

I would add either Rancho Geometry Correction Brackets or Synergy fixed lower control arms if you want to go the easy route or TF Alpine lower control arms if you are ok setting them up yourself.

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...ncho-control-arm-geometry-correction-brackets

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...nufacturing-control-arms-front-lower-3in-lift

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/control-arms/1415500-teraflex-alpine-front-lower-flexarm-kit

I run the geo brackets and really like they way they make the Jeep drive, but my daughter has the Synergy arms and I dig how they are bent for max ground and tire clearance.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/new-rancho-rs62103-control-arm-bracket-kit-1809713.html

As for the rear axle, I suspect you have the rear track bar in the top hole on the new bracket... Move it to the bottom hole and it will improve your rear track. The only way to fix it completely is to put on a rear track bar that adjusts shorter than stock. This is common and it isn't really a problem unless you have OCD... Then you can correct it with a Superlift rear track bar for $123.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/16202_3005.htm
 

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Did you have the pull before ? Do you feel your steering wheel is centered, or do you have to slightly keep it towards the left to make the Jeep go straight ? you could try to move your drag link a 1/4 turn, assuming the steering wheel is not perfectly centered, it takes a couple of tries to get the steering wheel centered right, your numbers seems ok, just low caster like it has been said,once you correct that, she'll drive a lot better, also, are you using the TF rear TB bracket on the 2nd hole ? if so, move it down to the 1st hole, your rear axel will still be shifted, just not as much as it'll go on the upper hole.
 

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Yes, I like total toe around .16 to .18. Usually the thrust angle doesn't have an effect on "pull". But you will put a lot more caster in with geometry brackets which will increase the self centering effect. This is what makes your steering wheel go straight when you are going around a corner, etc. That same self centering effect may also eliminate your "pull".
 

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Your numbers look real close to mine after the tf 2.5 lift on the caster. I've done nothing to correct caster. I only recentered my steering wheel. My buddy owns a garage that does alignments.

I have driven about 10k miles. Three tire rotations down. No abnormal wear.

It doesnt pull but it "wanders" a little on the highway. Not a lot. I don't notice it at all now. But I let my wife drive it to work one day and she called me when she got there and said she couldn't drive the jeep straight. Then when she got home she said it was fine. Guess she learned to adjust to it.





Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

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Your numbers look real close to mine after the tf 2.5 lift on the caster. I've done nothing to correct caster. I only recentered my steering wheel. My buddy owns a garage that does alignments.

I have driven about 10k miles. Three tire rotations down. No abnormal wear.

It doesnt pull but it "wanders" a little on the highway. Not a lot. I don't notice it at all now. But I let my wife drive it to work one day and she called me when she got there and said she couldn't drive the jeep straight. Then when she got home she said it was fine. Guess she learned to adjust to it.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
That's the good part about low caster, it doesn't hurt anything... But for $100 to $250, depending on how you fix it, doesn't it make sense to make it right?
 

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That's the good part about low caster, it doesn't hurt anything... But for $100 to $250, depending on how you fix it, doesn't it make sense to make it right?
At some point I will but right now I am fine with it. It doesn't bother me at all.

I am done spending money on and wrenching on my jeep this year. Next spring it's getting new gears, 35s and probably adjustable control arms all around.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
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