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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, this is half-a.., I mean half-Jeep, but I'm working late to wheel tomorrow. Decided to test an idea I don't recall reading about anywhere. Of course the spring compressor I took on loan works from the middle of the spring only, I didn't realize until I got home, so I cannot line things up or test the setup better at full stuff at this time. A redo is simple later.

Basically, tilt the lower bump stops to get a better alignment with the jounce. Mine do not contact at full stuff, as typical with a 4" short arm lift. So they're as they would be tilted if a spring perch correction plate was used, but as a garage DIY throw together.

I bolted the lower puck in place, and JB Welded the others on top. I've been pucking and JB'ing all 4 corners for a while to good effect, just never properly aligned in the rear.

I was holding off for a long time to do a proper upper perch relocation, but now I'm not sure I want to bother, takes too much time I don't have.

Thoughts? What kind of better wedge than a dumb nut? Maybe even a wedge under the spring backside to reorient it a bit? That would be a serious low cost DIY correction overall.

Ford 8.8 setup, appears a little different.
 

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at 4" of lift you should be running a DC drive shaft and an SYE. i think i see adjustable CA's on there, no? especially with the addition of the side offset related to that axle.

since you should have all that..........the way i understand it is, the bumps should have been lined up at the initial install using the arms to hold the pinion at the right angle and locate the bumps to a usable position under/into the top jounce.

so 1's bolted on and 3 are glued? all resting on a nut to hold a tilt. sorry but that sounds a bit flimsy.

that's a 1/4" thick aftermarket pad on that axle, and i believe you can get a wrench under those. if i had no choice but to angle the bumps, then a proper wedge and a long bolt through it all, is the way to go.
does that plate have a nut welded to the bottom? at minimum look up something called a bevel washer, that capped with a large fender washer would be more stable than that nut. or buy an extra puck and cut it at an angle. but a loose nut and glued pucks sounds like an insurance claim to me.

and if your good with cutting tools, the rear upper mounts can be relocated without even pulling the springs. cut the 4 ears loose and she'll jump up into that arch.
 

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thats a lot of very temporary bump stop extension. id be shocked if it was still intact when you get to the trail. hockey pucks are known to break apart in the best scenarios. putting all of the pressure at a single point will rip through them in no time.

zone sells universal bumpstops for ~$15 a pair that mount to the lower pad. mine have lasted more than 6 years

spring compressors are rarely a good idea. its much easier and safer to put the jeep frame on jack stands, disconnect the shocks, and jack up the opposite side to allow the side you are working on to droop and the spring will basically fall out.

the axle rotates while it moves in its upward arc allowing the pads to contact each other. did you cycle the suspension with the springs removed in order to find out where your pads are at when fully stuffed?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
at 4" of lift you should be running a DC drive shaft and an SYE. i think i see adjustable CA's on there, no? especially with the addition of the side offset related to that axle.
Indeed do, all of the above. Problem is the 8.8 cannot move as freely as the rear Danas. I need to move the axle back a little for better centering but can't because the (big 8.8) diff hits the tank skid. Centering is off just slightly and is acceptable, but the bump miss is more egregious. Can't go forward as well, obviously, because of centering.


the bumps should have been lined up at the initial install
Therein lies the problem with the PO's 8.8 install. If he'd have tilted the lower perch before welding it on the axle. Or have done the upper while the axle was out.


so 1's bolted on and 3 are glued? all resting on a nut to hold a tilt. sorry but that sounds a bit flimsy.
1 bolted, 2 JB'd. Obviously the nut is all I had, a wedge is needed.


that's a 1/4" thick aftermarket pad on that axle, and i believe you can get a wrench under those.
It's welded, from an 8.8 kit. Get a wrench under for doing what exactly?


if i had no choice but to angle the bumps, then a proper wedge and a long bolt through it all, is the way to go.
It's either angle the bumps, angle the lower perch, or relocation of the uppers. I am too busy with work and fam to do the upper relocation proper until maybe dead winter, and I wouldn't feel comfortable with my skill level to tackle welding to an axle tube.


does that plate have a nut welded to the bottom?
Tapped.

at minimum look up something called a bevel washer

Something of what I was looking for.

I wasn't clear on what I was seeking. Comments on wedging the bumps only rather wedging the perches with correction plates. No gain in lift, fast, cheap, simple. If done with good wedges, it seems to me, a real option that apparently few do for some reason.

Thanks for the reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
spring compressors are rarely a good idea. its much easier and safer to put the jeep frame on jack stands, disconnect the shocks, and jack up the opposite side to allow the side you are working on to droop and the spring will basically fall out.
Ah, did not know that technique. I'll give it a try this weekend.

did you cycle the suspension with the springs removed in order to find out where your pads are at when fully stuffed?
That was the plan with the spring compressor. Estimated the angle and went with it instead. Wheeling Sunday showed it was decently contacting near center, but not ideally so.

Bigger question is this: is this (tilting just the bumps) a viable option? Relocation of the upper perch I'm just not going to be able to get to anytime some. Slapping some lower perch plates on costs and I don't want any extra lift to disturb things, hence this. Yet I don't see anyone having discussed this very simple mod.

Don't underestimate the hockey pucks and JB Weld setup! I've been running these on some pretty hard CO trails with no disintegration for 2 years, even at the poor contact angle as it sat in the rear. Key is bolting the lower for the initial solid pad, as I don't think the minimal contact area between first puck and perch would be sufficient. But JB is a seriously good bond between pucks when cleaned properly, lot of surface area. Started with that 2 years ago as I was experimenting with bumps as I learned Jeeps and suspensions as a noob. Total noob, had to see and adjust and learn on the fly. These have never given way and I haven't bothered to through-bolt or mod them since. Now, not rock crawling is a big reason for the lessened pressure, but on my trail outings, which are creek crossings and high passes, I'm bumping dozens and dozens of times while articulating, so they've been worked.

Thanks for the reply.
 

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i don't have anything bad to say about angling them off to get good contact.........just need a sturdy, through bolted stack at your preferred angle with a proper wedge, is all i was suggesting.

the lack of a nut welded below the plate makes it easy to drill out to pass a bolt through. and if it has room for a wrench it has room for a nut, room for a nut means you have room to use a through bolt and a proper wedge. the bevel washer i mentioned would give you an angled surface with a through hole. and if there was enough room to add another below with the nut, the pair would ensure a stable, angled and through bolted stack.
and the mention of a fender washer (large diameter) is to keep the pressure even across the surface of the puck, they are known to become brittle over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i don't have anything bad to say about angling them off to get good contact.........just need a sturdy, through bolted stack at your preferred angle with a proper wedge, is all i was suggesting.
Got it, Dave, thanks. I'll see what I can piece together before this weekend.
 

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May not be time b4 the wkend but there's a product called UHMW. It's a high density polymer. It won't rot and most chemicals can't hurt it it won't shrink or break. is cheap for small pieces and drills and cuts easily with same tools you'd use for lumber. Take a peek on Amazon they sell rounds flats and square bars.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
May not be time b4 the wkend but there's a product called UHMW. It's a high density polymer. It won't rot and most chemicals can't hurt it it won't shrink or break. is cheap for small pieces and drills and cuts easily with same tools you'd use for lumber. Take a peek on Amazon they sell rounds flats and square bars.
I was thinking about what polymer might be shapable by cutting. Perfect, thanks, I'll do some research.
 

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i use it for everything..... standoffs for my brackets on my alum fenders. bump stop blocks and insulating/isolating washers.. and it's super slippery (white) and would make awesome sliders
if strips were fixed to the skid or on the front control arm skids that so many weld in. even so far as to use for armor........ they sell tubing that can be split and put onto steering rods and CA's to keep them from getting beat up in the rocks. they sell thin sheets that could be wrapped around the rear corners like the metal armor is.

comes in diff grades white is purest and densest and most slippery, black, i think is #2 grade and green would be the least dense and least slide able, at least of the stuff we use at work..
 
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