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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I think I have my funds to pull the trigger on a lift. I have read almost every lift thread on here, and seems that all they do is contradict each other.

My situation. I will be moving back to SoCal soon. My Jeep is my daily driver, but will be off road frequently once back in SoCal. Trying to decide between AEV 3.5 or a RK 3.5 Max travel.

My questions:

1. Everyone says that AEV is expensive, but the RK 3.5 max travel is about the same price and doesn't come with shocks, is there a noticeable advantage to the RK, and if so what shocks would you pair with it?

2. I don't have tools or work area to install myself, what would be an approx cost for the install of these systems from a GOOD shop?

Thanks in advance for the help, and sorry to post another stupid lift question.
 

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RK is in a different class than AEV. AEV is not recommended for offroad. I'd pair RK up with Bilistein shocks. A good shop will charge you their hourly rate X the labor called out on the pdf instructions.
 

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If your close to my area in SoCal I'll offer up the garage and tools to help you install it. Other then that I don't know which lift you should get. I've got rough country 2.5" lift that most talk trash on but so far I love mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys for inputs.

@Chris, thanks for the offer, but will probably get it before I move and it would be in San Diego.
 

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hadn't heard that about AEV, is there a known reason on this?
 

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aev uses brackets for everything and rk doesnt. brackets tend to come loose or bend and break. they just arent as heavy duty as control arms.
 

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It all depends what you want/expect from your kit.

Each have their advantages and disadvantages. I disagree with Pluke, anyone can break any part from any manufacture, RK, AEV, TF, BDS, MC, etc. And RK is not in another league; it's different.

If there was a simple answer to this question, then there would only be one company in business. What do you want from your lift? There are pros and cons, let us know what you expect and members can steer you in the right direction and hopefully apply a few facts, not opinions.

If we are going to discuss the "offroad" capabilities of a lift, then I would point to the driver more than the equipment. I have seen driver run stock TJ (only lockers and tires) up grades that fully build buggies struggled with.
 

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Fact, a control arm made by Rock Krawler is stronger than a bracket made from AEV.

Fact, everyone I know in real life who has had AEV suspensions ends up replacing their suspension less than a year later. In fact, all actually i know has swapped their AEV kits to Rock Krawler.

Fact, that Stroked420 doesn't know what he is talking about in regards to AEV brackets versus Control Arms.
 

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Fact, a control arm made by Rock Krawler is stronger than a bracket made from AEV.

Fact, everyone I know in real life who has had AEV suspensions ends up replacing their suspension less than a year later. In fact, all actually i know has swapped their AEV kits to Rock Krawler.

Fact, that Stroked420 doesn't know what he is talking about in regards to AEV brackets versus Control Arms.
:whistling: Ha ha ha!

There is a reason that both (and other) kits exist. Your narcissistic opinions never hold weight and rarely include fact; if they did you wouldn't have been sack riding OME, then TF, now RK. No one was comparing the arms vs drop brackets except you. Believe it or not, they are two different parts with different purposes, designs, and carry different loads. The moments on them aren't even comparable; but I don't expect you to understand. So why do you feel the need to compare the two? I don't get it.

I like the "... everyone I know in real life who has had AEV suspensions ends up replacing their suspension..." :rolleyes:

my opinion: all mfg have advantages and disadvantages, that's the beauty of it. Hence the reason I will be researching and mixing parts.

I am not going to turn this into a pissing match with you, or like most of your posts, we will be wasting people's time and not providing anything useful to the forum! Cheers!
 

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i'm now into savvy but it's soooo much money! about 2000 for a 4 inch lift alone. my other idea is about 1500 for an OME kit from DPG. get a 4 inch lift, you need a new driveshaft and SYE ($500), extended brake lines (120), and new shocks ($500 for ranchero). the OME kit is a 2.5 inch lift you could probably get away without doing all that crap.
 

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techflork said:
i'm now into savvy but it's soooo much money! about 2000 for a 4 inch lift alone. my other idea is about 1500 for an OME kit from DPG. get a 4 inch lift, you need a new driveshaft and SYE ($500), extended brake lines (120), and new shocks ($500 for ranchero). the OME kit is a 2.5 inch lift you could probably get away without doing all that crap.
No SYE with the Jk

I love the RK x-factor because it addresses the steering with a real highsteer kit.
For a "complete" kit the price is not too bad.
 

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No SYE with the Jk

I love the RK x-factor because it addresses the steering with a real highsteer kit.
For a "complete" kit the price is not too bad.
Agree, pricing is great and so far their tech support has been as well. I can't wait to hear about some long term MC users. The new joints look promising!
 

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X2

I would strongly consider MC if starting over.
My Tf lca joints lasted about 5k. I'm sure that can be beat rofl
Not the first I have heard, though that's prob the lowest mileage. Arms are easy to build, it's a good, quiet, comfortable, long lasting joint that MC may have in their favor.

What issues did you see?
 

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I will not recommend a specific lift to you because as you have seen opinions tend to differ vastly. What I would do is recommend a lift philosophy. The first thing to do is figure out what your frequent off road excursions will entail, and I mean SPECIFICS. What you must do, in my opinion, is quantify each of the following areas with a minimum/maximum value (as appropriate):

Running Ground Clearance, Body and Diffs
Break-over Angle
Approach/Departure Angle
Articulation/Shock Travel
Center of Gravity
Loaded Weight

Once you nail these down, and maybe you have already, you should have a pretty good idea of both how much lift you need as well as what size tires. Then it's just a matter of fleshing out details to make the lift and tires work. As far as which lift I would look at - in my opinion, whether you crawl or not, if your rig is a DD you ought to be thinking "Overland" first and foremost since you're going to be logging most of your miles on pavements and trails. A well balanced rig is going to do its part on the rocks if you do yours and is likely a better choice all around, hence balanced.
 

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stroked250 said:
Not the first I have heard, though that's prob the lowest mileage. Arms are easy to build, it's a good, quiet, comfortable, long lasting joint that MC may have in their favor.

What issues did you see?
With my joints ? Front axle vibes. Both joints were sloppy and worn out.
I bought the rebuild kit and tool for about $100.
Greased the shit out of them and will every few thousand.
Actually wanted to use a JJ but don't think they would work with angle of the Tf arms.
TF was smart :)
 
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