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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so im the proud owner of another yj this times its a 95 with a 2.5,soa,4.56 gears,and 35's but no front sway bar or rear track bar .i drove it 1and a half hours home in 30 mph wind gusts at 55 and it was quite the white knuckle ride :eek: my question is do i really need the one in the rear ? i have the front swaybar just not on the jeep could i get it to work without new end links or should i just break down and buy some quick dicos?
 

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I'm sitting on a SOA with 4" springs and no front and rear track bars.... I'm running a front Addco sway bar with disco's and it drives like a dream..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
so what your sayin is if i run just the sway bar i'll be ok,
thanks !!
 

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I ditched the track bars way before i even did the soa and never had an issue.. I strongly recommend going to urethane leaf springs bushings though if your not already.. It helps..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I ditched the track bars way before i even did the soa and never had an issue.. I strongly recommend going to urethane leaf springs bushings though if your not already.. It helps..
ok i got what u mean . i have the stock swaybar but all i need is some aftermarket end links or should i just go with an all aftermarket swaybar and links? not really worried about money just want to do it right cause i will be driving it on the road quite a bit .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Cut-N-Pasted from a post I made on Pirate a few years ago.

Installed a Currie AntiRock meant for a TJ on my SOA YJ.
The end result was a big reduction in body side to side sway on uneven pavement and body lean in turning was also reduced. Overall a thumbs up. My highly scientific testing was done with the AntiRock in the next to stiffest setting. The softest setting had the YJ acting as no AntiRock was installed at all.

The bushings that Currie supplies had to be turned down a bit to fit in the front frame tube of the YJ. Guessing the bushings are made of UHMW plastic as they were pretty tough. A lathe would make this a simple task but some patience and a big ass file will also work.

Once the bushings are installed the rod itself is pushed through. Although close, an extra 1/4 or so additional rod length would be nice. But it does work.

The supplied heims are mounted to the Currie arms. Then I mounted the lower heims to the SOA spring plates. Used a combination of some small scrap steel pieces to make a lower eye similar to a shock mount.

Only other mod was to trim the front bumper were it covers the round frame tube. Depending on what bumper you have this may not be required.

Worth the $325 TYD and the time and effort to install ? Right now I`d say yes. Keep in mind I had no stock sway bar, bushings, mounts or links to start with. And the fact that my axle is pushed forward a couple inches would have meant that some fabbing may have been required.

HTH

Currie Enterprises 4x4 Rear Ends Antirock
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
hey very interesting , thanks
 

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Cut-N-Pasted from a post I made on Pirate a few years ago.

Installed a Currie AntiRock meant for a TJ on my SOA YJ.
The end result was a big reduction in body side to side sway on uneven pavement and body lean in turning was also reduced. Overall a thumbs up. My highly scientific testing was done with the AntiRock in the next to stiffest setting. The softest setting had the YJ acting as no AntiRock was installed at all.

The bushings that Currie supplies had to be turned down a bit to fit in the front frame tube of the YJ. Guessing the bushings are made of UHMW plastic as they were pretty tough. A lathe would make this a simple task but some patience and a big ass file will also work.

Once the bushings are installed the rod itself is pushed through. Although close, an extra 1/4 or so additional rod length would be nice. But it does work.

The supplied heims are mounted to the Currie arms. Then I mounted the lower heims to the SOA spring plates. Used a combination of some small scrap steel pieces to make a lower eye similar to a shock mount.

Only other mod was to trim the front bumper were it covers the round frame tube. Depending on what bumper you have this may not be required.

Worth the $325 TYD and the time and effort to install ? Right now I`d say yes. Keep in mind I had no stock sway bar, bushings, mounts or links to start with. And the fact that my axle is pushed forward a couple inches would have meant that some fabbing may have been required.

HTH

Currie Enterprises 4x4 Rear Ends Antirock
id rather just roll with no sway bar... i zip tied up my link 4 months ago and have never looked back
 

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I don't really think there is a straight for your question. I like driving with my sway bars on. There is a noticable difference, but some people prefer the difference.

It's something you'll have to feel out yourself.

Also, does your steering feel screwed up? Put the sway bar back on and feel it out. You might have deeper issues then just not having sway bars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't really think there is a straight for your question. I like driving with my sway bars on. There is a noticable difference, but some people prefer the difference.

It's something you'll have to feel out yourself.

Also, does your steering feel screwed up? Put the sway bar back on and feel it out. You might have deeper issues then just not having sway bars.
that would have been my next question and because it's f'n freezin here the swaybar is gonna have to wait it's just kinda weird my buddy has a 94 rollin on 33's with no swaybar or tracbar and his yj runs staight as an arrow ? i will certainly keep you guys posted maybe even throw up a couple of pics tomorrow !
 

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Now i'm beginning to question that whoever did the SOA has the correct caster angle on the front diff.. That will make a huge difference on how it handles.. Post up a few pics and deffinitely get a side shot ...I'm curious to see your front pinion angle..

I just did my SOA and at 80+mph with 35's mind you i can let go of the wheel and it stays put....Front diff geometry is crutial..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok i will get some pics up tomorrow afternoon ! thanks uplifted for all you help !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
sorry wasnt trying to be rude!!!!!:( i thank EVERYONE who has helped so far!! sorry if i came across as a dick .
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
some people wanted pics to aid them in aiding me so here they are hope this helps ! i was thinkin of goin with a 1.5 lift spring as the stockers are wore out
 

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Well I'm pretty sure i see your stability issue...That front diff is pitched way to high.. If you look close it appears that your upper balljont is actually ahead of your lower causing a sever caster issue.... read this link
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thats kinda what i thought when i looked under there but i wasnt sure . so it def needs to be rolled down a bit ? and what do u think about 1.5 lift springs instead of the stockers ?
 

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You need to roll it back till the upper ball joint is behind the lower giving you a positive caster.. That will help you track straight and have the steering return to center. Read up on caster angle and it's effects to give you an idea of what you need....... I'm a fan of lifted springs with soa... as i mentioned i have 4" springs with my soa and it's stable as all hell..
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ok so since i did not put this lift on how hard is it to do that ? i am good with a wrench but not with bein technical lol
 
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