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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm sure this is probably taboo, but I figured I'd ask anyways. After getting my lug nuts off, and caliper bolts breaking on me, after having to pound off my rotors, does anybody use Anti-Seize on their wheel bolts/caliper bolts? It would seem adding lubrication around the breaks would be a :nonono:.

Thoughts?
 

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If you torque the bolts they should not be hard to remove.
 

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You can use anti-seize on the lugs but I don't recommend it or know of anyone that does. If you go that route you'll have less resistance when torquing them down so you'll have to reduce torque to avoid over tightening them. So instead of 100-110 lbs on the torque wrench i'd drop it to 70-80.

The reason your caliper guide pins were seized is because they weren't lubed. The calipers are a floating design so the pins need to be lubed and only tightened until it's snug (20ish lbs). I wouldn't use anti-seize though (can dry up quick), use a good high temp brake lube. I use this stuff and it's great...Napa also carries it.

Amazon.com: Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz.: Automotive
 

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Abe Froman
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I use anti-seize on most bolts that I will need to remove again someday, but not lug nuts. Just remember that the torque values need to go down when using anti-seize.
 

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Yes, definitely reduce the torque wrench's setting by about 20% after applying antiseize to the lug nut studs. I used to torque my lug nuts to 90 ft-lbs. but now tighten them to around 72 which with the antiseize in place, gives roughly the same clamping force that the previous 90 ft-lb. setting did.

I started using antiseize because of the number of seized lug nuts I was seeing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the info! Since I've started wrenching on the Jeep, I've been generous with the anti-seize. Like Docloui said, I've been throwing it on any bolt that I may ever have to deal with again.

I haven't found anybody who knows how to use this torque wrench, maybe somebody on this forum can give me a hand? It says it measures in newtons-meters up top, but the same for the bottom black ring, that measures 1-14 ( think?) As you turn it left, the handle moves up, the shaft, and right, down. I can't figure out how to measure "x" ft-lb. It was also brought to my attention that I purchased the most expensive non digital torque wrench I could find, and nobody at the autozone knew how to use it either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sure, at work at the moment, so it's not on my person, but if you click on the second picture in that link, and mouse over it, it will show you said business end up close and personal.
 

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Thanks for all the info! Since I've started wrenching on the Jeep, I've been generous with the anti-seize. Like Docloui said, I've been throwing it on any bolt that I may ever have to deal with again.

I haven't found anybody who knows how to use this torque wrench, maybe somebody on this forum can give me a hand? It says it measures in newtons-meters up top, but the same for the bottom black ring, that measures 1-14 ( think?) As you turn it left, the handle moves up, the shaft, and right, down. I can't figure out how to measure "x" ft-lb. It was also brought to my attention that I purchased the most expensive non digital torque wrench I could find, and nobody at the autozone knew how to use it either.
Just use the ft lbs setting which is on the metal bar and the top numbers on the black ring. The black twist ring is for the inbetween numbers...so if you want 22 ft lbs set the black ring zero'd out on the 20 mark (metal bar) and click the black ring to the 2. And then lock it with the red ring.
 

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Full Size Jeep Dr.
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Thanks for all the info! Since I've started wrenching on the Jeep, I've been generous with the anti-seize. Like Docloui said, I've been throwing it on any bolt that I may ever have to deal with again.

I haven't found anybody who knows how to use this torque wrench, maybe somebody on this forum can give me a hand? It says it measures in newtons-meters up top, but the same for the bottom black ring, that measures 1-14 ( think?) As you turn it left, the handle moves up, the shaft, and right, down. I can't figure out how to measure "x" ft-lb. It was also brought to my attention that I purchased the most expensive non digital torque wrench I could find, and nobody at the autozone knew how to use it either.
That particular torque wrench only goes up to 250 inch pounds. It's not big enough for lug nuts. You'll want to step up to a 1/2" drive that does foot pounds.

As far as how to use it, you line up the "zero" mark on the handle as closely as you can to the numbers engraved into the body of the wrench. Then use the lock-unlock function to lock the setting in.
 

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That particular torque wrench only goes up to 250 inch pounds. It's not big enough for lug nuts. You'll want to step up to a 1/2" drive that does foot pounds.

As far as how to use it, you line up the "zero" mark on the handle as closely as you can to the numbers engraved into the body of the wrench. Then use the lock-unlock function to lock the setting in.
+1. I made the same mistake buying that same in/lb wrench and wondered why it always clicked immediately. I stepped up to the 1/2" drive ft/lb wrench and it works very well.
 

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That particular torque wrench only goes up to 250 inch pounds. It's not big enough for lug nuts. You'll want to step up to a 1/2" drive that does foot pounds.

As far as how to use it, you line up the "zero" mark on the handle as closely as you can to the numbers engraved into the body of the wrench. Then use the lock-unlock function to lock the setting in.
It says right on the bar that it's foot pounds...goes up to 80 ft lbs
 

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It says right on the bar that it's foot pounds...goes up to 80 ft lbs
The link in YHSubime's post lead to an in-lb model. But if you want to torque to 80 ft/lbs, an 80 ft/lb torque wrench won't be the most accurate. They are most accurate in the middle of the torque band.
 

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Yea that site is all screwed...in the description is says foot, under specs it says inch, the second pic shows foot, third shows inch. No wonder why I haven't been to sears in years.
 

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Yea that site is all screwed...in the description is says foot, under specs it says inch, the second pic shows foot, third shows inch. No wonder why I haven't been to sears in years.
yea, I'm starting to lose faith in them now that half of their craftsman line is made in China. Even HF offers lifetime replacements so that's not a selling point anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Unfortunately the next closest place is Home Depot. And out of all the hardware stores, Sears was the only place that happened to have them when I needed them, including an advanced auto, and a autozone. Thanks for the headsup, I'll trade it out today. I've never had a problem with them upholding their warranty, but I have had to bring back a couple of long arm wrenches that had the "left" or "right" clicker for some strange reason stop working, or locking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Picked up the 1/2, goes by ft-lbs instead of inches-newtons. Also, I'd like to mention, say what you will about Sears, but what an amazing return policy. I switched out my torque wrench, no receipt, no questions, and my quick release 3/8 in drive ratchet that I've had for about a year now. It was my favorite ratchet, and I used it for most things on my Jeep, and everything in-between. I screwed up the locking tab on it while using a cheater bar (I broke it, and knew I may break it while using it) and it was grimy as all getup, and just grabbed a new one, again, no questions asked. You cant beat that, seriously.
 
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