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Discussion Starter #1
Here is the situation, Hood has some minor hail damage, bout 15 little dings in it. PDR guy wants 400 for repair. Replacement hood painted about 600. My dilemma is I was planning on Bedlining the raised section of my hood but I wanted to get the dents out. Would getting some glazing putty or bondo and just filling the dings be applicable in this situation?
 

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Here is the situation, Hood has some minor hail damage, bout 15 little dings in it. PDR guy wants 400 for repair. Replacement hood painted about 600. My dilemma is I was planning on Bedlining the raised section of my hood but I wanted to get the dents out. Would getting some glazing putty or bondo and just filling the dings be applicable in this situation?
Depending on how deep they are... maybe. You'll have to prep the surface properly to make sure the bondo doesn't crack and split off when the metal heats/cools. Are all of the dings in the area that will be covered by bedliner?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah they are all in the center part. some on the outer but not too worried about them right now. Would bondo be better than glazing putty?
 

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zombie & ninja slayer
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Park in the sun to get the hood as hot as possible and put ice in the dents, sometimes they will come out

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"When your stupid, your whole body suffers"
 

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Install hood louvers that replace that section entirely. :) Get it unpainted/powdercoated, then you can bedline it before installation (or just leave it in the black how it comes).
 

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Park in the sun to get the hood as hot as possible and put ice in the dents, sometimes they will come out

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"When your stupid, your whole body suffers"
Uh huh.

OP... If the dents arent very deep you can sand them with 120 grit then apply a glazing putty then sand them out. If they are very deep at all you will need to hammer & dolly them out and apply some bondo or glazing putty. The ice cubes and sun deal will never work. The theory is that the sun heats up the metal and the ice shrinks it back to normal. Not gonna happen without a torch/ getting the metal red hot and quenching with water. This shrinks the molecules back to normal. Dont try it. Some pics would be good so I could see how deep they are and i could walk you through it.
 

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zombie & ninja slayer
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It's works sometimes, I went to school for auto body and we did it in class

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"When your stupid, your whole body suffers"
 

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It's works sometimes, I went to school for auto body and we did it in class

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"When your stupid, your whole body suffers"
Id have to see it to believe it, and i doubt it would work on anything but a soft dent. Sorry but i cant see it happening
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm not sure how to get pics on here. The hood louvers idea is pretty good. But I think I'm gonna try the glazing putty idea first. They aren't deep at all really. And they are about as round as a pencil eraser
 

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I'm not sure how to get pics on here. The hood louvers idea is pretty good. But I think I'm gonna try the glazing putty idea first. They aren't deep at all really. And they are about as round as a pencil eraser
Lemme know if you need some pointers.
 

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Yipeee Kay Ayyy
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I vote the louver route because, not only will it look good, it will help keep the engine cool. But, if you do decide to fill the hail dents, glazing putty is meant to fill sand scratches in body filler. It's really not designed to fill dents(well, maybe really really shallow dents). If you want body filler to stick, you need to grind it down to metal using a grinding disc, feather out the paint and then apply the filler. Block it down with 36 grit to make it straight, then 80 grit to take out the 36 grit scratches, then 180 grit to remove the 80 grit scratches. After that, primer and then prep the entire panel for the undercoating.
 

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I vote the louver route because, not only will it look good, it will help keep the engine cool. But, if you do decide to fill the hail dents, glazing putty is meant to fill sand scratches in body filler. It's really not designed to fill dents(well, maybe really really shallow dents). If you want body filler to stick, you need to grind it down to metal using a grinding disc, feather out the paint and then apply the filler. Block it down with 36 grit to make it straight, then 80 grit to take out the 36 grit scratches, then 180 grit to remove the 80 grit scratches. After that, primer and then prep the entire panel for the undercoating.
This is false
 
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