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Discussion Starter #1
Ive read threads upon threads in the last week to help me decide on which audio equipment to go with along with many PMs and this site has been extremely helpful. I made up my mind and decided to take the chance to bring out whats left of the teenage me and tackle my stereo install on my 16' JKU with base stereo.

I have decided to go with The CS line kicker speakers F&R = Kicker 40CSS654 components ....and I am going to risk possible theft going with the 10" PIONEER TSSWX2502 subwoofer ran off the fifth channel of the tiny yet powerful amp which is the Soundstream PN5.640D Picasso Nano 640 W 5-Channel Class D digital Car Audio Amplifier ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G051S7I?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 ) . This amp has linein for all channels and has great reviews from every site I have seen on the web selling it.

I initially planned to use an Audio Control Lc6i to feed this amp but a experienced user on here let me know he used this amp for its small size and line in abilities for each channel with great success so I will first go without the lc6i. That is a debate I am having with myself but as the user told me, I can always add this myself.

Now my question and reason for this thread is does anyone have any good pictures or care to let me know where you guys tapped the speaker wires for an input for the amp? I figured the front is easy but where has everyone tapped into the rear speakers?

Are they ran down the passenger side of the car? I plan to mount the amp either in the dash or under the passenger seat so grabbing the rear two speaker wires by the front passenger door would be the easiest. I saw a great youtube video where the guy grabbed the wires right by the pass seat belt but Id prefer to catch it either behind the glovebox or along the passenger side of the jeep.

I saw a ton of threads but do not recall any that specifically went over where to grab the speaker wires for line output converters or in my case my amp that has it built in.

Im sorry if I missed a thread with this detailed but appreciate any links/pics/descriptions. Thank You!!
 

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Your easiest option is to use a PAC AOEM-CHR3 ($33 on AMZ). This is a harness that plugs in-line btw the factory harness and the factory head unit. It includes a LOC so you might as well use it; you could bypass it if you wanted OR replace with a LC6i down the road. You would connect the 2 front RCA outputs of the PAC interface to both the front and sub RCA inputs on the Amp. This means the sub will fade with the front (main) channel as it should. The rear RCA outputs would go to the rear inputs on the amp. You would also need to cut into the PAC harness itself to send the front and rear speaker outputs of the amplifier back to the factory speaker wiring. As delivered the PAC harness just taps into the front and rear speaker outputs to send a signal to the LOC but the signal also still continues into the factory harness. You would simply cut each speaker wire after the tap and then connect the speaker outputs from the amp to the wire cut on the vehicle side (female) of the adapter. Some 9-wire would make this easy as it can carry all 4 speaker channels from the amp back to the harness and the remote turn-on from the harness to the amp.

This is where you would cut for each of the 8 speaker wires (4 pair: FL, FR, RL, RR):
wiring_harness.jpg

And this is a diagram of the change you would make:
wiring_change.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Your easiest option is to use a PAC AOEM-CHR3 ($33 on AMZ). This is a harness that plugs in-line btw the factory harness and the factory head unit. It includes a LOC so you might as well use it; you could bypass it if you wanted OR replace with a LC6i down the road. You would connect the 2 front RCA outputs of the PAC interface to both the front and sub RCA inputs on the Amp. This means the sub will fade with the front (main) channel as it should. The rear RCA outputs would go to the rear inputs on the amp. You would also need to cut into the PAC harness itself to send the front and rear speaker outputs of the amplifier back to the factory speaker wiring. As delivered the PAC harness just taps into the front and rear speaker outputs to send a signal to the LOC but the signal also still continues into the factory harness. You would simply cut each speaker wire after the tap and then connect the speaker outputs from the amp to the wire cut on the vehicle side (female) of the adapter. Some 9-wire would make this easy as it can carry all 4 speaker channels from the amp back to the harness and the remote turn-on from the harness to the amp.
Essentially you are just taking the line out from the back of the deck, Cutting right after that, capping it. Than soldering the amp'ed speaker wire to the "other half" of the harness that you just cut. Right?

That is pretty simple and you leave all factory wires in tact. That's def convenient.
 

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Essentially you are just taking the line out from the back of the deck, Cutting right after that, capping it. Than soldering the amp'ed speaker wire to the "other half" of the harness that you just cut. Right?

That is pretty simple and you leave all factory wires in tact. That's def convenient.
Yep, that's exactly what you are doing. That harness makes an install such as yours so easy that it's definitely worth the $33.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep, that's exactly what you are doing. That harness makes an install such as yours so easy that it's definitely worth the $33.
perfect. Ordered ! Thanks...

Now I just have to determine where I am going to install the amp. If i could hide everything behind the dash that would be fantastic. Otherwise Ill do under the passenger seat.
 

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I mounted a Kenwood KAC-M3001 behind the dash under the steering wheel. I love the location as it provides easy access to all the controls. I'm pretty sure the PN5.640d could fit in the same location with a slightly different bracket/mount design.

KAC_M3001.jpg
 

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Your easiest option is to use a PAC AOEM-CHR3 ($33 on AMZ). This is a harness that plugs in-line btw the factory harness and the factory head unit. It includes a LOC so you might as well use it; you could bypass it if you wanted OR replace with a LC6i down the road. You would connect the 2 front RCA outputs of the PAC interface to both the front and sub RCA inputs on the Amp. This means the sub will fade with the front (main) channel as it should. The rear RCA outputs would go to the rear inputs on the amp. You would also need to cut into the PAC harness itself to send the front and rear speaker outputs of the amplifier back to the factory speaker wiring. As delivered the PAC harness just taps into the front and rear speaker outputs to send a signal to the LOC but the signal also still continues into the factory harness. You would simply cut each speaker wire after the tap and then connect the speaker outputs from the amp to the wire cut on the vehicle side (female) of the adapter. Some 9-wire would make this easy as it can carry all 4 speaker channels from the amp back to the harness and the remote turn-on from the harness to the amp.

This is where you would cut for each of the 8 speaker wires (4 pair: FL, FR, RL, RR):
View attachment 2860297

And this is a diagram of the change you would make:
View attachment 2860305

With this, could I just amp the front speakers and leave the rear speakers to run off of the factory amp?
 

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Quadratec sells a tap kit that connects in behind the switched power outlet in the dash. Plug it in and you have available switched power that is not controlled by the CANBUS.
 

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Your easiest option is to use a PAC AOEM-CHR3 ($33 on AMZ). This is a harness that plugs in-line btw the factory harness and the factory head unit. It includes a LOC so you might as well use it; you could bypass it if you wanted OR replace with a LC6i down the road. You would connect the 2 front RCA outputs of the PAC interface to both the front and sub RCA inputs on the Amp. This means the sub will fade with the front (main) channel as it should. The rear RCA outputs would go to the rear inputs on the amp. You would also need to cut into the PAC harness itself to send the front and rear speaker outputs of the amplifier back to the factory speaker wiring. As delivered the PAC harness just taps into the front and rear speaker outputs to send a signal to the LOC but the signal also still continues into the factory harness. You would simply cut each speaker wire after the tap and then connect the speaker outputs from the amp to the wire cut on the vehicle side (female) of the adapter. Some 9-wire would make this easy as it can carry all 4 speaker channels from the amp back to the harness and the remote turn-on from the harness to the amp.

This is where you would cut for each of the 8 speaker wires (4 pair: FL, FR, RL, RR):
[iurl="http://www.wranglerforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2860297&d=1456925644"]
[/iurl]

And this is a diagram of the change you would make:
[iurl="http://www.wranglerforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2860305&d=1456925644"]
[/iurl]

How do you go about splitting the front channel between two front speakers and a sub?
 

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Chuck. When you cut harness for splice of new amp signal do you lose any controls of factory amp like the eq or steering wheel controls. Etc. I'm in the process now of doing this I have 2016 jk with 430 radio has factory 15 watt amp. Don't think it is a premium infinity or alpine amp. But there is an amp. Radio is not run from head unit. Just curious how yours turned out.


Thanks for this post
 

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Harness connection

Your easiest option is to use a PAC AOEM-CHR3 ($33 on AMZ). This is a harness that plugs in-line btw the factory harness and the factory head unit. It includes a LOC so you might as well use it; you could bypass it if you wanted OR replace with a LC6i down the road. You would connect the 2 front RCA outputs of the PAC interface to both the front and sub RCA inputs on the Amp. This means the sub will fade with the front (main) channel as it should. The rear RCA outputs would go to the rear inputs on the amp. You would also need to cut into the PAC harness itself to send the front and rear speaker outputs of the amplifier back to the factory speaker wiring. As delivered the PAC harness just taps into the front and rear speaker outputs to send a signal to the LOC but the signal also still continues into the factory harness. You would simply cut each speaker wire after the tap and then connect the speaker outputs from the amp to the wire cut on the vehicle side (female) of the adapter. Some 9-wire would make this easy as it can carry all 4 speaker channels from the amp back to the harness and the remote turn-on from the harness to the amp.

This is where you would cut for each of the 8 speaker wires (4 pair: FL, FR, RL, RR):
View attachment 2860297

And this is a diagram of the change you would make:
View attachment 2860305

Great post,

When you cut harness for splice of new amp signal do you lose any controls of factory amp like the eq or steering wheel controls. Etc. I'm in the process now of doing this I have 2016 jk with 430 radio has factory 15 watt amp. Don't think it is a premium infinity or alpine amp. But there is an amp. Radio is not run from head unit. Just curious how yours turned out.


Thanks for this post
 

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I "think" it will work the the factory Alpine, but you have to install it downstream of the existing amp. I'm not sure though. That's my plan anyway.
 

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