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Cannot get either bolt to budge. Cursed at it, heated with torch, impact drill, breaker bar... Next step is a week long soak in PB blaster I suppose. Or I saw a video where he just sheared it off with an angle grinder.

I have the entire rear lifted and on stands - I assume this is the least amount of pressure on the joints. Would lifting from the frame, or one side only, give a mechanical advantage?
 

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Angle grinder, cut the bolt head off! Don’t be scared.


1992, 4.0,5 spd, BDS 4.5 heavy duty lift, jb conversions ss sye, 8.8 with ARB, Aussie front, tj shafts, dual dia.brake booster, 33” bfg a/t
 

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I cut the track bars off a friends rust bucket
 

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Cut it... take your time and get it all or just hack out the big peices...
Who cares if an inch remains....
 

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So sawzall the bar and just leave the bushings bolted in? Y'all some maniacs!



I cut the brackets and all off the frame on a friends jeep. My jeep the bolts came right out so i never cut the mounts off because it wasn't needed.
 

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Cheetos, ZP cut the bolt off not the bar, Agalloch cut the brackets off, again not the bar. Either way, you will get rid of the bar.
 

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Cut bolt, or bar, or brackets, doesn't matter....

On my Sahara I got the bolt out of the axle end 12 years ago and wired that end up to the frame.... It stayed that way for about 10 years till I finally got around to taking the other end loose and tossing it...

I would use an angle grinder with a cut off wheel... a sawsall would take forever....
 

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When I removed the 4:10 axles from a junked rustbucket YJ, I uses a sawzall to cut the track bars. All I had was a 24" breaker bar and I couldn't loosen the nuts. The track bars cut pretty easy compared to the spring main eye bolts that I had to cut to replace my springs.
When I got the axles home, I could heat the nuts and use my impact to get them off.

The place that had the rustbucket YJ didn't have power (meaning no air besides no electricity).
I used a 700 watt converter attached to my F-150 to power the sawzall.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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