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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got it jacked up and on jackstands, got some Currie Johnny Joints I'm gonna put on, anything that makes this entire experience easier? :confused: :cool:
 

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odanny said:
I've got it jacked up and on jackstands, got some Currie Johnny Joints I'm gonna put on, anything that makes this entire experience easier? :confused: :cool:
Are you replacing the top or bottom arms or all of them? You many want to undue the shocks at the axle and the drive shaft at the diffs for some added drop for the new arms. Have fun
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Lower control arms only, adjustable ones. Thanks for the tips on the shocks, I will if I have to, the only thing I'm concerned with is making the news one the correct length.
 

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I've always done mine without even jacking the Jeep up. Just do one side at a time. It may be a bit harder to do though since you have adjustables and they may not match the factory length, unless you plan on using the cam bolt still.
 

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Find a lift

I've done it several ways I think it was less trouble if you know someone with a floor hoist like you see in a garage or service department.

You will bust up your knuckles a whole lot less.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·




Should be pretty straightforward, I'm more worried about adjustment. Will I need to have my front end aligned by a shop to make sure that these are properly lengthened? Someone told me that adjustable CA's have nothing to do with your alignment.
 

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Wrong! The CAs and cam bolts have everything to do with your caster adjustment. Caster should be set between 5 to 8 degrees negative (so that the top of the axle is tipped towards the rear). The higher the angle, the more it will want to track straight (and thus fight you when turning, and helps recenter your steering wheel after turning). I've always just cleaned off the flat area on the top ball joint, then put a socket over the zirk fitting and placed an angle finder on top of that and adjustes as necessary. The driver's side caster should be 1/2 of a degree less than the passenger side to compensate for the crown of the road that clears water off the motorway. It will keep it tracking in a compensated straight line (it will be effectively steering to the left just a hair). You don't need a professional shop to do a full alignment on a TJ - in fact I think you can do a better job in your driveway as long as it's level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
JeepCrawler98 said:
Wrong! The CAs and cam bolts have everything to do with your caster adjustment. Caster should be set between 5 to 8 degrees negative (so that the top of the axle is tipped towards the rear). The higher the angle, the more it will want to track straight (and thus fight you when turning, and helps recenter your steering wheel after turning). I've always just cleaned off the flat area on the top ball joint, then put a socket over the zirk fitting and placed an angle finder on top of that and adjustes as necessary. The driver's side caster should be 1/2 of a degree less than the passenger side to compensate for the crown of the road that clears water off the motorway. It will keep it tracking in a compensated straight line (it will be effectively steering to the left just a hair). You don't need a professional shop to do a full alignment on a TJ - in fact I think you can do a better job in your driveway as long as it's level.
Cool, thanks for that information. I will put a socket on the zerk fitting like you mentioned and check the angle. I take it by lengthening or shoretening the CA's it will change that angle slightly?
 

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Yup - If you keep the cam bolt in there, put it so the little indicator circle/hole is pointing all the way front, and on an axis parallel to the ground between itself and the bolt's centerline - that should put you really close in the ballpark for a lift consisting of a few inches. See where that puts you, then make fine adjustments with the arms.
 

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JeepCrawler98 said:
Wrong! The CAs and cam bolts have everything to do with your caster adjustment. Caster should be set between 5 to 8 degrees negative (so that the top of the axle is tipped towards the rear).
hmm...i was under the assumption that the stock settings for a tj's d30 were 5* to 7* positive caster. as you lifted the jeep you would slowly decrease the positive caster...so when around 5" of lift you would be in the ballpark of 3.5* to 4* of positive caster.
chris
 

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"Top-back" is negative caster isn't it? Forward caster would cause some major tracking and steering issues in our type of setup. As you rotated the axle "towards teh back" it will beging to track straighter and straighter, and the return-to-center on the wheel will become stronger and stronger. This is the reason dragsters are tipped back like that as well on the front knuckles - except they're at a MUCH more agressive angle than any stock vehicle; it helps them stay in a straight line.
 

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actually, i think we are both right! :) i believe what you are describing as "top-back" is actually positive caster. they way it was described to me is if you run a straight line through the upper and lower ball joints and then mark it on the ground. as you move that spot on the ground forward (as in top-back) you'll be inducing positive caster. moving it backwards (or pitching the top-forward) you'd be inducing negative caster. anyone? or am i speaking out of my arse again??? :)
chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
quadna71 said:
actually, i think we are both right! :) i believe what you are describing as "top-back" is actually positive caster. they way it was described to me is if you run a straight line through the upper and lower ball joints and then mark it on the ground. as you move that spot on the ground forward (as in top-back) you'll be inducing positive caster. moving it backwards (or pitching the top-forward) you'd be inducing negative caster. anyone? or am i speaking out of my arse again??? :)
chris
I believe you are correct. The dealer just adjusted them to almost 7 degrees caster, which meant he added 6 full turns on the control arms to lengthen them. They were at around 4.2 degrees of caster and are now 6.7 degrees.

It made a big difference in the vibration in the front, almost eliminating it. It is barely noticeable now.
 

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i saw that you replaced the bottoms with johnny joints. what about the top? i have a johnny joint (new in box) made for replacing the OEM bushing atop the diff on the front axle. if you are interested in it let me know. here's a link to my thread on our local board for it.
chris (always cleaning out the garage :) )

http://www.delawareja.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=5072
 
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