Are you replacing the top or bottom arms or all of them? You many want to undue the shocks at the axle and the drive shaft at the diffs for some added drop for the new arms. Have funodanny said:I've got it jacked up and on jackstands, got some Currie Johnny Joints I'm gonna put on, anything that makes this entire experience easier?
Cool, thanks for that information. I will put a socket on the zerk fitting like you mentioned and check the angle. I take it by lengthening or shoretening the CA's it will change that angle slightly?JeepCrawler98 said:Wrong! The CAs and cam bolts have everything to do with your caster adjustment. Caster should be set between 5 to 8 degrees negative (so that the top of the axle is tipped towards the rear). The higher the angle, the more it will want to track straight (and thus fight you when turning, and helps recenter your steering wheel after turning). I've always just cleaned off the flat area on the top ball joint, then put a socket over the zirk fitting and placed an angle finder on top of that and adjustes as necessary. The driver's side caster should be 1/2 of a degree less than the passenger side to compensate for the crown of the road that clears water off the motorway. It will keep it tracking in a compensated straight line (it will be effectively steering to the left just a hair). You don't need a professional shop to do a full alignment on a TJ - in fact I think you can do a better job in your driveway as long as it's level.
hmm...i was under the assumption that the stock settings for a tj's d30 were 5* to 7* positive caster. as you lifted the jeep you would slowly decrease the positive caster...so when around 5" of lift you would be in the ballpark of 3.5* to 4* of positive caster.JeepCrawler98 said:Wrong! The CAs and cam bolts have everything to do with your caster adjustment. Caster should be set between 5 to 8 degrees negative (so that the top of the axle is tipped towards the rear).
I believe you are correct. The dealer just adjusted them to almost 7 degrees caster, which meant he added 6 full turns on the control arms to lengthen them. They were at around 4.2 degrees of caster and are now 6.7 degrees.quadna71 said:actually, i think we are both right! i believe what you are describing as "top-back" is actually positive caster. they way it was described to me is if you run a straight line through the upper and lower ball joints and then mark it on the ground. as you move that spot on the ground forward (as in top-back) you'll be inducing positive caster. moving it backwards (or pitching the top-forward) you'd be inducing negative caster. anyone? or am i speaking out of my arse again???