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Retired Mod
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Eyourlife 20" light bar arrives next week and I need to figure out some wiring.

As nice as they are, a SPOD is not in the plans because:
a) The light itself was $59.99 shipped, and the Rugged Ridge bar was $83.24 shipped....I'm not paying +$400 to wire it. I don't plan on running a lot of lights or equipment. Plus I prefer they are wired through the ignition.

b) My Homelink is already mounted where a SPOD would go anyway.


So....I'm now looking at a few different Painless blocks vs some 1 leg wire harnesses.

I'm also considering the Rugged Ridge A-pillar pod. I've heard mixed reviews on it, but I thought I would seek advice from anyone who has gone this route.

Any thoughts on the best Painless to look at, or go another direction? Is the RR pillar pod a total piece of junk?

On a side note, if you do a forum search for Painless in the title, there are not a lot of threads about it for JK's.

Thanks
 

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If you haven't figured out how you're going to do your fuses and relays, this is a great clean all inclusive solution. I bought from this guy back in January and had it on my doorstep, customized as requested in less than 2 weeks. Basically he is (along with a couple other ebayers) producing the Bussmann fuse relay box wired and ready to go. Check it out Universal Relay Fuse Auxiliary Distribution Box Jeep Cooper Bussmann Off Road | eBay

Edit used in conjunction with RR A pillar switch mount
 

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I'll give this a stab...

Yes, there are options out there to make your own "box" - I recently saw a few items on google ( just search DIY spod) - here's a write up:

DIY Relay Box (SPOD wannabe))

For me, the priority was peace of mind, when it comes to wiring, and while spending $400 would do that, I just couldn't justify the price. So, for my 50" knockoff light bar, and dually cube lights, I went with rigid brand pre made wiring harnesses. about $50 for 2 of them on amazon, I sleep well knowing they're well made, with appropriate wire gauges and stuff.

I'm going to be ordering the a pillar switch pod as well - and yes, there are mixed reviews on it. i figure for $20, (plus $40 in switches) i'll give it a shot. worst case, the pillar pod sucks, I'm out $20, and i can return the $40 in switches.
 

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Hey, Mark...

Mike and I both have the Rugged Ridge switch pillar pod and we are happy with it. We also helped a friend install one in his jeep and his is good, too. Some people have complained about the fit, but all three, in my humble opinion, have been good.

Mike made me a SUPER power distribution center. There are some pictures in my build thread.

I'll send you a PM...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm really digging that box on eBay. I will look into that.
 

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I'm really digging that box on eBay. I will look into that.
Yeah I'd bought all the stuff to make one myself and it ended up costing more than this (blue sea box, hella relay box, addl parts etc). Plus I'd have to wire it, have 2 boxes AND find a place to put them. This box fits on the drivers side fender well under the hood and is waterproof
 

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So with the daystar, rugged ridge switch panel, are yall just wiring each light/accessory individually?
 

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So with the daystar, rugged ridge switch panel, are yall just wiring each light/accessory individually?
Well since I have that power distribution block I linked earlier I wouldn't say wiring each thing individually. Each set of lights is switched individually but I'm able to get power from a single lead off the battery since I have the distribution block
 

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Can someone explain to me the benefit of using a relay.
I have the a pillar switches with each switch on its own harness with inline fuses.
 

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Can someone explain to me the benefit of using a relay.
I have the a pillar switches with each switch on its own harness with inline fuses.
My short and sweet version..

The relay will carry the load of what ever you are running, as opposed to the switch (trigger for said load). Switches vary in load capacity like a champ. If you are using switches... you will have to use the correct amp rating. That said, some just buy the switch, with out looking in to amp (load caring capacity). this could cause problems down the road.

Also with the relays, they can all be put in the same spot w/ fuses. With the switch, if it burns up (15amp fuse, 5 amp switch and so on) you will have to pull it and replace it. pending how easy or hard it was to put said switch in said location.

Hope it helps.
~Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Lot of options out there. Might light came in this weekend (I need to silicone it), and I just ordered the Rugged Ridge Pillar Pod.

Now I just need switches and a harness/block and wires (maybe). It probably makes the most sense to order all of switches for the blanks and wire everything up to to block right now. But I'm not sure how many more lights I will add....not much.

Maybe a single reverse/quit riding my bumper light, some halo's around the headlights, and some rock lights that I won't ever use. Most of that stuff is so tiny (and LED) that it won't be much of a power draw...but in reality I probably won't order any of it.

Still, I want my 20" LED bar to come from a switched source.
 

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If you haven't figured out how you're going to do your fuses and relays, this is a great clean all inclusive solution. I bought from this guy back in January and had it on my doorstep, customized as requested in less than 2 weeks. Basically he is (along with a couple other ebayers) producing the Bussmann fuse relay box wired and ready to go. Check it out Universal Relay Fuse Auxiliary Distribution Box Jeep Cooper Bussmann Off Road | eBay

Edit used in conjunction with RR A pillar switch mount
WOW! Thanks for that ebay link - I'm seriously tempted right about now... Really, THANK YOU! (I had no idea about this one)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm still debating on which one to get. Where is everyone getting their colored wires from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
After doing more research, I have to say....I now know far more about relays than I thought I would ever imagine.

With that said, I'm now really disappointed in a lot of the pre-built units....but I'm not sure if it is worth the money to build my own the way I want it (economy of scale and all).

I've basically scratched the Painless off my list. They offer two waterproof 7 circuit designs.....but why does the 70217 only use wires rated for 10 amps even though is has TWO 40 amp relays? The 70207 (which was what I was looking at) uses wires rated at 20 amps, but it only uses one 40 amp relay for some reason.

I guess I'll look at the ebay version again. It it least uses five 35A (NO) / 20A (NC) relays and 16 gauge wire....but all wires are only 3 feet long, so I'm going to have to source even more 16 gauge wire in multiple colors, along with lots of connectors if I go with it.

Given that my biggest item will be a 126W 20" light bar, so my biggest draw will be 10.5 amps (and I'm guessing if I do everything I plan, I won't draw more than 14 or 15 amps total)...I can now fully understand why people are making their own blocks.

I'm halfway tempted to skip a relay and just go with an inline fuse since the switches are rated for 20 amps anyway.
 

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After doing more research, I have to say....I now know far more about relays than I thought I would ever imagine.

With that said, I'm now really disappointed in a lot of the pre-built units....but I'm not sure if it is worth the money to build my own the way I want it (economy of scale and all).

I've basically scratched the Painless off my list. They offer two waterproof 7 circuit designs.....but why does the 70217 only use wires rated for 10 amps even though is has TWO 40 amp relays? The 70207 (which was what I was looking at) uses wires rated at 20 amps, but it only uses one 40 amp relay for some reason.

I guess I'll look at the ebay version again. It it least uses five 35A (NO) / 20A (NC) relays and 16 gauge wire....but all wires are only 3 feet long, so I'm going to have to source even more 16 gauge wire in multiple colors, along with lots of connectors if I go with it.

Given that my biggest item will be a 126W 20" light bar, so my biggest draw will be 10.5 amps (and I'm guessing if I do everything I plan, I won't draw more than 14 or 15 amps total)...I can now fully understand why people are making their own blocks.

I'm halfway tempted to skip a relay and just go with an inline fuse since the switches are rated for 20 amps anyway.
So what did you end up going with? I'm looking at the ebay link, and it's looking a crap-ton easier than the pile of harnesses and relays I have sitting on my coffee table right now.
 

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Wiring your own Bussman box is pretty straightforward. Here is a great write-up from another forum member;

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/hoozs-diy-spod-ish-project-1109890.html

The thread includes someone who made some how-to videos as well. I viewed the first video and they guy seemed to really like soldering. I just used a wire crimper designed for those connectors and it all worked out fine.

I doubt you will save much (if any) money vs. buying the ebay pre-built system but if you do it yourself you can customize things the way you want. It was also fun project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So what did you end up going with? I'm looking at the ebay link, and it's looking a crap-ton easier than the pile of harnesses and relays I have sitting on my coffee table right now.
Nothing.....except a light bar and pillar switch collecting dust in the garage. :hide:

Between work, starting the urgent process of buying a selling a home, a 2 year old, and another one on the way (hence the urgent need for a bigger home now), I just have not had the time or energy to dig into it.

Plus my prego wife was giving me some serious stink eye when I was doing Jeep stuff instead of house prep. :blackeye
 

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Can someone explain to me the benefit of using a relay.
I have the a pillar switches with each switch on its own harness with inline fuses.
My short and sweet version..

The relay will carry the load of what ever you are running, as opposed to the switch (trigger for said load). Switches vary in load capacity like a champ. If you are using switches... you will have to use the correct amp rating. That said, some just buy the switch, with out looking in to amp (load caring capacity). this could cause problems down the road.

Also with the relays, they can all be put in the same spot w/ fuses. With the switch, if it burns up (15amp fuse, 5 amp switch and so on) you will have to pull it and replace it. pending how easy or hard it was to put said switch in said location.

Hope it helps.
~Bill
Yes....and using a relay also gives you the ability to run shorter lengths of heavier gauge wire to feed directly to the load (relay circuit) while using smaller gauge wiring for the control circuit (switch etc).
Imagine a 40 amp load needing to be wired up to a 40 amp rated switch inside your jeep. The heavy wiring, cost, hassle to install is overcome by simply installing the relay close to the load or battery and turning the relay circuit on/off with a lighter gauge switch circuit.
 
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