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Talking to another guy who did the 8.8 swap and he accounted for the shorter axle by placing a 1.5" spacer on the short side and moving the diff closer to center.

I was planning to center the axle with WMS being the disks, this way, the WMS is disk surface to spacer surface.

How did others do this?

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I didn't mess around with that, or mess with wheel spacers. You can't really tell visually that the 8.8 is slightly narrower...personally, I wouldn't try to shift it over.
 

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Well my 8.8 is finally under the jeep. Took jack stands out from under it, tightened control arms. It's sitting really high. 4" lift springs. 12" from top of wheel. It looks terrible.lol Will driving it eventually make it settle down?
 

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Well my 8.8 is finally under the jeep. Took jack stands out from under it, tightened control arms. It's sitting really high. 4" lift springs. 12" from top of wheel. It looks terrible.lol Will driving it eventually make it settle down?
Looks typical with 4" springs. The larger diameter of the tube of the 8.8 likely only gave you another 1/2" of height in the rear. If the springs are new, they might settle a little.
 

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Curious about this part of your post, are you saying on the highway your are turning more RPMs than you would like? I am planning on going to 33s eventually but, plan to stay with the 4.10 gears that came in my 8.8. What year, engine and tranny are you running?

Originally from Minnesota myself, Anoka area. Getting pumped about the Vikings, just wondering when I should put my nut cup on for the eventual kick to the groin.

Skol,
John
I run approximately 3000-3100 RPM at 60 mph with my 3 speed auto, 4.0L and 4.56 ring/pinion. It's hard for me to say what it should be because previously it was well undergeared with 3.07 on 33" tires (around 2300 RPM). I think i'll come down about 200 RPM or maybe more with 35" tires when I get them.
Stock TJ Sport would be in the 2500-2800 RPM range I believe.
 

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it'll come down more if you put more weight on the back like a bumper and big spare tire!

I wouldn't mind going a little lower than I ended up at but it's not drastic. I also haul an adventure trailer which will definitely add some squat when it's hooked up.
 

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Yep...I almost made the same mistake. This is how it should look, bleeder valve above the brake line fitting.

This is a very helpful picture as I am trying to determine where to run my brake lines. Any chance you have pictures of where you ran the hard lines and the drivers side?

Thanks,
John
 

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This is a very helpful picture as I am trying to determine where to run my brake lines. Any chance you have pictures of where you ran the hard lines and the drivers side?

Thanks,
John
This all I did...bent the hardline (into an "S" shape) up to the block on the truss.

 

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Some good progress

Made some good progress, took calipers off yesterday, pretty rusty, will be hitting them with a wire wheel today, thought about replacing, cost was a bit much since they will just look like crap again.

Friday I order the Trak Lok rebuild, went with the carbon fiber version, should be here Tuesday.

Still trying decide what I am doing with the front axle, no luck so far finding a reasonably priced 4.10 axle, I may just do a re-gear on the Dana 30 and slide a lunchbox in at the same time.

Here are some eye candy, forgive the pics, drove over my phone while wheeling, the Jeep is fine.
 

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Replaced the clutches in the 8.8 last night, much easier than expected. Plan to finish cleaning calipers and hitting the. With paint tonight. Plan on removal of Dana 35 on March 9 and install of 8.8 on March 10.

Just sourced a Dana 30 HP earlier this week, pick up on Saturday. Probably start gutting that on Sunday to prep for gear install. This one should be a much quicker turn around.

John

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Two questios...

Brake lines did you guys use the axle to frame use and reconnect at the axle, or, did you disconnect at the frame and put in a new rubber hose?

I'm replacing control arms upper and lower connect the control arms to the axle first or frame first?

Thanks,
John

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Since I was removing my D35 and putting the 8.8, I left the control arms attached to the Jeep then slowly slid and raised the new axle into place. I installed my new flex brake hose to the new axle, then connected it up after it was in place. I think this is what you are asking.
 

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Since I was removing my D35 and putting the 8.8, I left the control arms attached to the Jeep then slowly slid and raised the new axle into place. I installed my new flex brake hose to the new axle, then connected it up after it was in place. I think this is what you are asking.
Yes, since I am replacing control arms at the same time I am thinking connect CA to axle while out and then take advantage of the Johnny joint at frame end to make aligning for the bolt to go in.

Did you have any problems getting the brake hose disconnected from hard line at the frame?

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I searched this thread about my topic and didn't see an answer.

My 8.8 came from a 99 Explorer. It had the sway bar with it which is a lot beefier than the D35. Has anyone used the 8.8 sway bar in place of the D35 sway bar? Any mods needed to make it work? (It fits the 8.8 pumpkin well, but I'm not sure about its placement on the Jeep.

Thanks
 

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Two questios...

Brake lines did you guys use the axle to frame use and reconnect at the axle, or, did you disconnect at the frame and put in a new rubber hose?

I'm replacing control arms upper and lower connect the control arms to the axle first or frame first?

Thanks,
John

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I used the stock rubber line going from the frame to the axle along with the stock T splitter. Then ran new hardlines (from ECGS) down the axle tubes.
 

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I searched this thread about my topic and didn't see an answer.

My 8.8 came from a 99 Explorer. It had the sway bar with it which is a lot beefier than the D35. Has anyone used the 8.8 sway bar in place of the D35 sway bar? Any mods needed to make it work? (It fits the 8.8 pumpkin well, but I'm not sure about its placement on the Jeep.

Thanks
My 8.8 was out of a 99 Explorer as well and I reused the TJ sway bar. I have never heard of a TJ swaybar breaking...so the TJ one works fine. :happyyes:
 

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Yes, since I am replacing control arms at the same time I am thinking connect CA to axle while out and then take advantage of the Johnny joint at frame end to make aligning for the bolt to go in.

Did you have any problems getting the brake hose disconnected from hard line at the frame?

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I left all 4 CAs dangling from the frame. I hooked the lowers in first to the axle, then rotated the axle up to get the uppers in. A ratchet strap may be needed to align them to get the last bolt in the UCA. After spraying with perpetrating oil, my brake line came apart easily by using 2 line wrenches do undo the fitting. Just kind of work it back and forth before you decide to unscrew it. I tapped a baggy over the end to catch the constant drip of fluid.
 

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8.8 is in, got some vibes at lower speeds, I already had a 3" Zone lift with a TC drop, lowered it a little further and vibes went away, temporary solution. A SYE would be the best solution, but also pricey. Body lift and motor mount would also take care of it. Any other ideas?

Axle sits a little too far to the passenger side, adjustable track arm will solve that.

Still need to connect E brake and beat her tube. Getting closer.

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Hi all. So I purchased a TJ in a box so to speak. The guy I got it from started a complete frame off resto. He put a ford 8.8 in it but it has drum brakes. Is that a bad thing? I have not picked it up yet as it is in a barn and I have to wait for the snow to melt to get a trailer to it.
 

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