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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey all. i use a safe snatch strap (no hooks just looped ends) any ideas for attaching to vehicles that do not have tow hooks, i personally like to put it in my recievier hitch and put the pin through but many cars have no hitch.
 

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:cool: A snatch strap is VERY DANGEROUS to use for recovery of "STUCK" vehicles without "D" rings or "TOW" points, a "TOW" strap is easier, but still dangerous under a strain, without "TOW" points

I won't doit atall-unless

If it's a family/friend-thats different, but if the vehicle doesn't have factory frame "secure" brackets-your kinda in trouble-

You can EASY pull a vehicle in snow, but mud/over edge--lotta chances-

Leave itup to the tow truck-

Good luck

:rofl::rofl: JIMBO
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sorry should have been more specific.... offroad its snatches tow hooks to tow hooks only with other trusted wheelers..... im talking rescuing 'cars' and the likes in the snow.... would a big D ring hooked up into the frame somethere work?
 

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I've pulled a few cars out of snowbanks and ditches with snatch straps where the "car" had no official attachment point without a problem, but common sense should prevail.

I've attached to one or both wheels (through the spokes), around an axle, and around a leaf spring if it's there. On my end, it's strictly a D-ring on the hitch receiver (or a special slip-in receiver adapter just for that purpose if I have it with me) or occasionally, a front bumper tow hook. We *EASE* those vehicles out of the bad spot, with both drivers pulling using idle speed only. If more pulling is needed, we get a few guys to push the stuck vehicle a bit to break it loose. And I usually double-up the strap and use no more than 10 ft between us to minimize stretch/snap for safety.

And if it needs more than that, it's time to call in the professional wrecker who can lift/pull at the same time from a great distance away for safety. And as Jimbox mentions, forget it if they're over a cliff or deep in mud. A heavy wrecker with a strong winch is needed for this.

For a family member or friend, it's free. For a stranger, anything less than $50-bucks in advance gets them no more than a smile and wave goodbye. I've paid strangers in Jeeps for their assistance in the past and always appreciated the help.

For most snow pulls on FWD cars, I usually thread the strap through both rear wheel spokes, and hook the ends up to the tow hooks on my front bumper. This pulls evenly and gives you a LOT of control if you need to pull them backward more than a few feet and lets you turn their back end around to straighten them out.
 

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What we do with our tractor is keep a short piece of chain with large washers and a thick bolt. Attach the tow strap to the chain and put the chain on the frame
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
great info guys thanks...... was thinkin over my front tow hook around stuck cars axle then back to my other front tow hook, then 4L in reverse and slow and steady on the clutch
 

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:cool: Well, unless you can't turn around, you should NEVER tow using reverse !!

Also straping around the axle is very, disasterous, SHOULD be frame associated hookup !!


great info guys thanks...... was thinkin over my front tow hook around stuck cars axle then back to my other front tow hook, then 4L in reverse and slow and steady on the clutch
Not much more too say !!

:rofl::rofl: JIMBO
 

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Differential gears don't like towing in reverse!
 

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:cool: Well, unless you can't turn around, you should NEVER tow using reverse !!

Also straping around the axle is very, disasterous, SHOULD be frame associated hookup !!




Not much more too say !!

:rofl::rofl: JIMBO
Differential gears don't like towing in reverse!
Wait do you mean actual long distance towing or recovering? Should I not hook up a strap to my front bumper hooks and the other side to a h2 stuck in mud and pull backwards?

Please explain whats wrong with it I cant get my head around it :punk:
 

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From what I understand, differential gears are designed such that they are much stronger pulling forward
 

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From what I understand, differential gears are designed such that they are much stronger pulling forward
Interesting thesis. Can you cite the authority on this? If so, I'd like to investigate your claim further.

When backing a stuck vehicle out at idle speeds, very little strength is required, so it's probably a moot point, but I'd still be interested in your findings.
 

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From what I understand, differential gears are designed such that they are much stronger pulling forward
I've not heard this. I've pulled quite a few people out, going backwards. I prefer to go forwards, but sometimes circumstances don't allow that. I too, will look into this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks all. good info.... i'd like to hear more as well.....forward is no problem i just figured ive seen people go nose to nose many times....
 

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:cool: Heh Heh, No it's not Diff. gears they couldn't care less--

It's either stick/auto reverse (think small) gearing and shafts, they have probably 50/60% less strength than the forward splines/gears/synchros/bands-

Yes, of course you can doit if you HAVE to, but it's a much safer/better idea to use the recovery vehicle REAR tow points !!

:rofl::rofl: JIMBO
 

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:cool: You read my commenrts about the Differentials-

Here's a brief U.S. Army vehicle recovery manual for your perusal:

http://www.landroverbrotherhood.com/bestanden/USArmydrivingmanuavehiclerecovery.pdf

Hmmm..nowhere do I see anything about transmission reverse or differential gearing being "weaker" then forward gearing for the purposes of vehicle recovery.

I await proof of this claim...
I'm not going to research info for the dangers of using the tow vehicle, (normal) in reverse, auto/manual, but

I've seen a Toyota and Ford blow reverse gears for recovery, using there front D-rings and I've read about the dangers for quite a few years--

If thats not good enough for you, thats fine-do what you want to, this isn't a training manual (join the ARMY)-



:rofl::rofl: JIMBO
 

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Check out the profile of ring gear teeth. The drive side is almost perpendicular to the ring. The coast side is at an angle. Towing in reverse puts pressure on the coast side instead of the drive side which pushes the ring and pinion gears away from eachother creating a lot of stress inside the differential. That said, pulling a car out of the snow slowly in reverse isn't going to hurt anything.

 

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I await proof of this claim...
:(

I do too. I thought it was almost better to pull in reverse because the reverse gear is lower than 1st. I've pulled people out lots of times in reverse with no problem.
 

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I've never heard of that. Should I start running difficult trails in reverse now?:rolleyes:
Here are the ratios of the gears, the higher the number the more power you will get aka more turns of the motor to the transmission


AX-15 - 1997-1999
* 5 speed manual
* Used with 6 cyl models
* 10 spine input
* 23 spline output
* Ratios:

1st - 3.83
2nd - 2.33
3rd - 1.44
4th - 1.00
5th - 0.79
Rev - 4.22

Check out the rest here
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/tj-transmissions-specs-26347.html

As much fun as reverse through an entire trail run sounds I might advise against it :)
 
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