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OK, so like a lot of us I got dupped in to dropping the $1700 in to the high end audio system. :banghead:. What can I say, what's done is done!

Now is the time to fix it! I'm not a bass head, nor do I want to entertain folks in a 3 mile radius. I do use my Jeep as a daily driver on my 70 mile ( round trip) daily commute. I listen to all types of music and care more about sound quality than anything else! I have some ideas and would like to hear anyone's input. Here's my plan:

1. replace the factory speakers. looking at the Kicker upgrades:


2. Upgrading Factory Sub.-Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 Sub


3. Adding a Audio Control LC2i, tapped in to the Roll bar speaker lines.

4. Adding an external Amp- have an older Fosgate 4004 I've been itching to use!

5. Adding 6x9 in external boxes mounted under the rear seat. Looking at Focal 6x9s 690CA1SG to fill in the missing midrange.

6.Lastly adding a 12" sub in a custom box on the drivers side to handle the low range the 8" cant handle! looking at the Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-12 for that duty.

I'd like to keep the front, roll bar, and 8" sub running on the factory amp and run the 6x9 and 12" sub off the 4004. Other thought is to go with a LC7i and run them through another 4004. Any suggestions?
 

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I wanted just better sound as well, I dynomatted my soundbar and replaced the factory speakers with kenwoods. Then I messed around shopping for 4 months and just scored a great deal on a clarion head unit. Can't wait for it to arrive so I can find my next area to dump money into
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I wanted just better sound as well, I dynomatted my soundbar and replaced the factory speakers with kenwoods. Then I messed around shopping for 4 months and just scored a great deal on a clarion head unit. Can't wait for it to arrive so I can find my next area to dump money into
I thought about swapping out the head unit too...but really wanted to try to keep that part stock. The nice thing is...if I do all this and the quality is still horrid I can swap the head unit a bit later :)
 

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I went with 62.11i's, 400 watts of kenwood, an lcq and a hideaway; I'm very happy for the money. The lcq is going fix most of what's wrong and clean power to good speakers gets it loud enough. About the the only thing I've been considering now is a swapping out the stock tweeters (which become passable but harsh with better crossover points) and maybe messing with the stock rear sub as it's just turned off at the moment as it's unnecessary.

Staging could be a bit better with a center channel but it's not worth the hassle in my opinion of loosing the center cubby but would be easy to fab.

Gets loud and clear with the top on and loud enough with good containment (important here regarding tickets) with the top off.

I'm one of the people that doesn't have any real problems with the 730 and it seems stock until someone sticks there head in the stage or I crank it up.

This is all in a 2014 JKUR with premium sound.

Good luck with your install, update us when you're done!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I went with 62.11i's, 400 watts of kenwood, an lcq and a hideaway; I'm very happy for the money. The lcq is going fix most of what's wrong and clean power to good speakers gets it loud enough. About the the only thing I've been considering now is a swapping out the stock tweeters (which become passable but harsh with better crossover points) and maybe messing with the stock rear sub as it's just turned off at the moment as it's unnecessary.

Staging could be a bit better with a center channel but it's not worth the hassle in my opinion of loosing the center cubby but would be easy to fab.

Gets loud and clear with the top on and loud enough with good containment (important here regarding tickets) with the top off.

I'm one of the people that doesn't have any real problems with the 730 and it seems stock until someone sticks there head in the stage or I crank it up.

This is all in a 2014 JKUR with premium sound.

Good luck with your install, update us when you're done!
hey thanks for the input! I was hoping someone has messed with the Audio Control stuff, and yeah I first looked at the LCQ-1 as well....I thought I'd see if upgrading the speakers first did the trick on those.

I've been toying with the idea of using the LCQ-1 , keeping the new Kickers up front then using the 62.11s in the roll bar. I'd run the roll bar and the added 6x9s off the 4004 amp then I'd need to add another 2channel to power the 12" sub. I'm curious to know if you can indeed get sound to all 3 channels from only tapping the sound bar wires.
 

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2015 JK Sport 2 Door Audio Upgrade

Okay, so I bought the standard sound system and it is terrible. I researched around a bit and purchased these items...

For the low end sound:

10" Stealth Pod Subwoofer Enclosure $179
Rockford Fosgate R2D2-10" Subwoofer 500w 2ohm $55
Rockford Fosgate R250-1D 250w Amp, 1 Channel, with Bass Control $89


Replaced the stock 6.5's with this:

4 Cerwin Vega 6.5” Speaker 2-Way Coaxial 100w - HED65 $71
SOUNDSTORM EV4.400 SSL 400w 4-Channel amp $47

So, $460 minus install kits and labor fees.

I tried to shop around and find the cheapest options, with good reviews. Hoping this will be a vast improvement to the stock sound system.
 

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Sounds like you have a nice upgrade planned. Curious, why you decided to upgrade the factory 8 and also add the 12? Did you have any concerns with blending the subs? I like your idea of adding 6x9s to help with mid-range --do you see any issues with sound dispersion from the under the seat location? Definitely keep us updated and gluck.


hey thanks for the input! I was hoping someone has messed with the Audio Control stuff, and yeah I first looked at the LCQ-1 as well....I thought I'd see if upgrading the speakers first did the trick on those.

I've been toying with the idea of using the LCQ-1 , keeping the new Kickers up front then using the 62.11s in the roll bar. I'd run the roll bar and the added 6x9s off the 4004 amp then I'd need to add another 2channel to power the 12" sub. I'm curious to know if you can indeed get sound to all 3 channels from only tapping the sound bar wires.
 

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I tried to keep the head unit and replace speakers and add amp and sub. All I got was a louder version of the crappy head unit. The only way to get better sound is to replace the head unit. I went with the Kenwood DDX392. Did a 10" Kenwood shallow mount subwoofer, Memphis audio speakers, and a 5 channel Kenwood amp installed into the driver seat. Great sound and they retained the steering wheel controls. I recommend Kenwood. Very pleased. I was replacing the 130n head unit.
 

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Hey guys,

I'm looking to upgrade the speakers in my jeep but know nothing about sound systems or speakers. I'm going to be doing a lot of camping this up coming summer and would like to have a nice sound system for it. I would just like to replace the stock speakers and sub-woofer, not add an amp. Any suggestions?
 

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Hey guys,

I'm looking to upgrade the speakers in my jeep but know nothing about sound systems or speakers. I'm going to be doing a lot of camping this up coming summer and would like to have a nice sound system for it. I would just like to replace the stock speakers and sub-woofer, not add an amp. Any suggestions?
We have developed a very nice upgrade path for the Premium Infinity and Alpine systems. It's quite economical and quite effective.

Visit these 3 threads for more information:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/stock-tweeter-mod-cheap-662985.html

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/speaker-upgrade-infinity-6032si-904409.html

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/subwoofer-mod-replacement-921921.html

The focus was on optimizing the speaker impedance to the factory amplifier while increasing efficiency to give the effect of a much larger amplifier as well as correcting the crossover on the stock tweeters.

This is a milder upgrade than what Tomba is doing.
 

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OK, so like a lot of us I got dupped in to dropping the $1700 in to the high end audio system....

1. replace the factory speakers. looking at the Kicker upgrades...

I'd like to keep the front, roll bar, and 8" sub running on the factory amp and run the 6x9 and 12" sub off the 4004.
I believe your current speakers are 2 Ohm to match the 2 Ohm rating on the factory amp, while the 77KICK10's have 4 Ohm voice coils. If you put in 4 Ohm speakers, you are effectively cutting power to your speakers in half and making your stereo more quiet, not louder or clearer. And your choice of 2 Ohm speakers is pretty limited - the Infinity Reference 6032si was one that many have used, but it is discontinued. The Infinity Reference X REF-6502ix is similar, but is 3 ohm rather than 2.

Many Wrangler owners end up eliminating the factory amp and installing a 4 ohm rated amp to drive the four upgraded 6.5" 4 Ohm speakers. But I've read that if you eliminate the factory amp you lose some radio functions such as volume control because the radio and amp work together over the canbus. The way around that is to install a new aftermarket head unit and an install kit with steering wheel control module.

You may wish to do a little more research to figure out all this stuff. Good luck!
 

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Jeep really screwed everyone with the 2 ohm system and the CANbus....especially if you opted for a 430 or 730 and Connectivity (it would suck to spend the money upfront, only to dump everything).

There are a few things you can do, but your options are pretty limited. I added polyfil, and went with new 6.5" speakers (that are 4 ohms, so I lost volume).

1. You can do the tweeter mod, find some 2 ohm 6.5' speakers, and add a new sub amp and sub.

2. You can add something like CleanSweep downstream of the factory amp, and then run new amps from that point. This would allow you to keep your factory HU.

3. Dump EVERYTHING and start from scratch.
 

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re: inexpensive upgrade path

Just to add another perspective here?
I followed Pressurized's upgrade path he outlines in the threads below. (I have a 2014 JKU with the Alpine "premium" audio and 730n head-unit.)

As someone who appreciates good car audio, but doesn't necessarily dump BIG $'s into it .... I'd say this path is well worth pursuing, at least as a starting point.

IMO, the Pioneer subwoofer replacement is totally worth considering, even if you plan on going further with the rest of the upgrade than what's being done here. Whether you power the Pioneer replacement sub with an inexpensive 2 channel amp like the one suggested, or you do it with a larger multi-channel amp that also powers your other speakers? It's a huge improvement over the factory sub once it gets additional power -- and looks completely stock.

The factory tweeter mod is great primarily because at least on the 2014's, they don't even sound like they're functioning until you do this mod. But if you're inclined to spend a little more on the project, I'd say you'd be better off not even wasting time with it. Just pull the stock tweeters out and upgrade them to something better. (After you mod them and they're firing the way you'd expect them to fire - you find that they're a little on the "harsh" side. No "silky smooth" highs like more expensive ones can do.)

IMO though, the single biggest remaining issue I have with my sound after doing all of Pressurized's upgrades is just some lack of warmth to the sound. I feel like I've got plenty of bass now, and plenty of highs (if perhaps a bit too harsh vs. what I could obtain with more upgrades). There's just a lack of "fullness" to the sound that I suspect has a lot to do with low power output of the 730n's factory amp, plus possible limitation of the factory 6.5" speakers in the front. (Can't speak for the Infinity 6032si's I put in the soundbar as part of the upgrade, because maybe they produce more mid-bass/mids with more wattage? But the factory amp also EQs things so full-range sound doesn't get sent to the soundbar. So that's just as likely a factor, or THE factor?)

We have developed a very nice upgrade path for the Premium Infinity and Alpine systems. It's quite economical and quite effective.

Visit these 3 threads for more information:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/stock-tweeter-mod-cheap-662985.html

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/speaker-upgrade-infinity-6032si-904409.html

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/subwoofer-mod-replacement-921921.html

The focus was on optimizing the speaker impedance to the factory amplifier while increasing efficiency to give the effect of a much larger amplifier as well as correcting the crossover on the stock tweeters.

This is a milder upgrade than what Tomba is doing.
 

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re: eliminating factory amp

Yeah, IMO, pulling out or bypassing the factory amp is *not* the right way to handle the upgrade. I know people do it -- but with the CANBUS system we've got, the factory amp serves as part of the "brains" of everything.

If you're not willing to replace the factory head unit, then you need to keep the factory amp in the system as though it was part of the head unit, because in some ways it is for our Jeeps with premium audio.

Although they're not very common, it is possible to find 4 channel amps that accept speaker or "high level" inputs. I'd rather use one of those, chained off of the output wires coming from the factory amp, to power upgraded 4 ohm speakers.

Or for best results (because they eliminate the issue of the EQing done by the factory amp that you can't control), use a Cleansweep or equivalent sound processor between the factory amp and the new one.

Personally though, I'm not sure I'm willing to go the sound processor route for the Jeep? I think you're going to get enough improvement with just adding a suitable amp for the 6.5" speakers that it's "good enough". Sound processors have to be calibrated just right to do their thing properly, and that can present its own challenge (especially on a Jeep where the dynamics change if you go from a hard top to a soft top, or remove the top).

Many Wrangler owners end up eliminating the factory amp and installing a 4 ohm rated amp to drive the four upgraded 6.5" 4 Ohm speakers. But I've read that if you eliminate the factory amp you lose some radio functions such as volume control because the radio and amp work together over the canbus. The way around that is to install a new aftermarket head unit and an install kit with steering wheel control module.
 

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Although they're not very common, it is possible to find 4 channel amps that accept speaker or "high level" inputs. I'd rather use one of those, chained off of the output wires coming from the factory amp, to power upgraded 4 ohm speakers.
If it was my Wrangler, this is the option I would choose. Crutchfield has a bunch of 4 channel amps with speaker level inputs. Here is one that looks about right (50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms, or 75 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms). It is very small (about the size of a dollar bill) so it will easily fit under the dash, and it is not too expensive. You would have to figure out the best place to pick off your factory amp's speaker-out wires, and a place to tap into ignition switched power to trigger the amp.

Clarion XC1410 Compact 4-channel amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield.com

Check Amazon's price on this too.

Oh, one other thing. In an earlier post I said "the Infinity Reference 6032si was one that many have used, but it is discontinued." These are no longer available thru Crutchfield, but I see Amazon still has them available at a reasonable price. Someone who has used these speakers could tell you how they adapted them for mounting.
 

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^That is very possible....but it means we actually have to dump power.....

We have to take our "listed at" 368 Watt premium system (it isn't realy 368 Watts), and run it into a 200 or 300 watt amp. That is going backwards.
Plus we can only use the front speakers for a full range signal, (so no fade), and we would be using a noisier 2 ohm signal.

It has been a couple of years since I thought about all of this stuff...and now I'm back to being angry.

Whatever engineer thought up this "premium" system needs to be elbowed in the throat.

The base system is so much easier to upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sounds like you have a nice upgrade planned. Curious, why you decided to upgrade the factory 8 and also add the 12? Did you have any concerns with blending the subs? I like your idea of adding 6x9s to help with mid-range --do you see any issues with sound dispersion from the under the seat location? Definitely keep us updated and gluck.

Hey! Sorry for the long delay...I'm not a bass head at all...but I do like it to be clear when the lows hit. I've altered my plan just a bit. I don't foresee any problems running both the 8 and the 12...I' planning on using the 8 more as a mid bass and adding a blocker to prevent extreme lows from going through the 8. Then with the 12, blocking it at around 100hz or maybe up to 150.

You know, I was just thinking about the dispersion issue while driving in to work. I don't think it'll be too much of a issue...the boxes I'm planning to use have a 45 degree (ISH) upward angle. I was also looking at some wheel well mounted boxes that are made for the TJ but could probably be modified easily for the JK...I don't think , at least on my JKU, that that location is ideal because of the size of the second row seat. So, that brings be back to under the seat! Might as well try it...the boxes are cheap enough so if I don't like it I can try something else!

I agree 100% with what some other folks are saying....if I had my way I'd get my hands on the Fosgate PBR 300x4 that would mount nicely behind the glove box next to the cabin filter area. But...with a little one on the way I'm having to do this on a tighter budget than I normally do on projects like this. Pampers and wipes stock before toys...:whistling:. I already have the amp so I have to use what I have.

Eventually I will be dumping the 730n and adding a unit that doesn't reroute me 40 miles to take me around a 5 minute long traffic jam or barfs when I connect my iPhone and work phone at the same time. I did get my hands on the LC6i a few days ago! just need the replacement roll bar speakers and I can get started on the hard parts!

The biggest obstacle so far is placement of the amps and LC6i. the 4004 is too big to fit comfortably under the front seats or the second row seat. mounting it on the back of the passenger side second row seat is do-able but here in the DC area its best to keep them out of sight. my plan is to construct a small box under the 12" sub to house the amps, covered with an interior matching colour carpet. I'm an electronics geek by background, so I've incorporated a temperature switch and some 80cm brushless quiet fans to keep it cool inside on hot days.
 

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I tried to keep the head unit and replace speakers and add amp and sub. All I got was a louder version of the crappy head unit. The only way to get better sound is to replace the head unit. I went with the Kenwood DDX392. Did a 10" Kenwood shallow mount subwoofer, Memphis audio speakers, and a 5 channel Kenwood amp installed into the driver seat. Great sound and they retained the steering wheel controls. I recommend Kenwood. Very pleased. I was replacing the 130n head unit.
X2...only I had the 430N and replaced it with the Pioneer AVIC-7000NEX. It's a night and day difference over the factory head unit. I'm also not too fond of AudioControl as I originally had the DQ-61 installed and I can honestly say it's a piece of garbage. It's extremely difficult to tune and didn't improve the overall sound quality.
 

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It is funny to see these threads pop back up again. There was a ton of them a few years ago, but they had died out for awhile.

People were looking for all kinds of ways to get better sound (which is always subjective), but in the end, a huge chunk of those people said "F it....I'm going to bite the bullet, dump it all, and start from scratch". That is the only way to get a true, "clean" sound.
 

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I think that's right but I have to say - I wish it hadn't cost so much to get good sound. I almost think I overdid it. I have enough bass to have a heavy duty hick-hop concert in my rig!
 
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