Jeep Wrangler Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of JUNE's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 1995 wrangler with 105,000 miles on it. It is a 4 cylinder with the AX-5 5 speed. I think I got a good deal only paying $2000. It is very clean and very stock. When I went to test drive it, the seller told me he thought it was going to need a new clutch soon. It makes a grinding noise going to put the stick into 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, and occasionally in 5th if I'm really revved up when I go to put it 5th. It only makes the grinding noise if it is rolling. When at a dead stop, it goes into all gears fine with no problems. Will only grind when I put it into reverse if I am still slightly rolling when I put the stick into position.

I replaced the clutch with a full clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing & pilot bearing), replaced the slave and master cylinder, and changed out the fluid. Still making the sound. Tried manually bleeding the old and new slave cylinder, with no results. Once the stick is into the gear position, the clutch feels fine when engaging and disengaging it. I also never slips out of gear. Transmission feels great except for the quick grind it gives you when you put the stick into position.

I'm trying to figure out if I have missed something, or if I am just unlucky enough to have a transmission with all the sychros worn out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
580 Posts
IMHO it's mathematically impossible to have all synchros go at once although I've been told it happens, I still don't believe it.

I've been through every word you wrote, and although it's subjective, and I only speak from experience I would say it's faulty hydraulics in the clutch or your tranny's not bolted in right (or perfectly flush) to engine which could be tranny mounts or bolting.

Both scenarios require another teardown, sadly. Wait around though, there's prolly a lot better advice than mine coming down the pike.

And no matter what happens, I feel 2 thousand was a steal---good job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,868 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,303 Posts
That would be my first thought.......trans fluid.. second make sure clutch is operating properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the advice guys.

I flushed the transmission with Redline M/T 90, and it did not seem to get any better. This fluid was recommended to me by a local trans shop that does a lot of work on Jeeps. They said it was the best around.

Before I removed the trans to change the clutch, it was making the same grinding sound, and then after I changed the clutch, the sound persisted exactly the same. I know it is possible that it wasn't mounted flush before I worked on it, and that I somehow didn't mount it flush again, but I would like to think I have better mechanical skills than that and find it unlikely that it could happen twice.

The hydraulic system that came on the Jeep looked almost new, and seemed to be working fine. However, I replaced all of it and the problem persisted in exactly the same way.

Is it possible, or has anyone heard of the clutch fork getting bent on these transmissions. Also, Is there anyway I could check to make sure the clutch is being fully disengaged when the pedal is all the way engaged?

I appreciate all your help and hopefully I can get this figured out. I'm very mechanically inclined and have worked as an assistant in a couple shops and really do not want to have to take this to trans shop.

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,868 Posts
Also, Is there anyway I could check to make sure the clutch is being fully disengaged when the pedal is all the way engaged?
Check your floor mat, if its in the way it could be your issue....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Went and checked out the carpet and the clutch pedal in general. It does not seem to be getting stopped early by the carpet. In fact, it seems like the clutch is at its most disengaged point several inches before the pedal is all the way down.

I tried to have my girlfriend sit in it and put it in first, with the clutch pedal all the way down and tried to manually push the jeep backwards on my flat driveway. It seems to be giving me a little resistance, but I cannot be sure.

I am going to try and manually bleed the hydraulic system again, but I have already done this a couple of times in hope for results with none, so I don't have high hopes.

Again, I'm thinking that maybe the clutch fork might be bent or warped. I didn't notice anything while I was down there, but I wasn't really looking for it at the time and didn't look at the fork that carefully. I can't imagine how this could happen, but has anyone ever heard of a clutch fork bending or warping?

Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
665 Posts
Try double clutching when you shift, if no grinding then your synchro's are the problem. You said it had the grind before you changed the clutch prob they went bad with the PO. I'm having same prob with my AX5 just wait till warm weather to repair it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Tried double clutching and still the same thing. I have a spare AX-5 in my shop that I was told could use a rebuild when I bought it, and have rebuilt a AX-15, so I have no issue rebuilding it, I would just really like to avoid it if it's not the problem. I can't imagine the disappointment of rebuilding a whole transmission just to put it in and problem still persists just because of something I didn't think of before.

Thanks for the help and keep the ideas coming. If I haven't gotten anywhere by next weekend, I may break down and take it to a shop for their synopsis.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
1st off are you sure its a ax-5, if so does it have an internal slave cylinder.. now if you have issues with all the gears then 99% time its hydraulics... if it had an external slave i have a way to check the throw, if the slave is inside imo you have either... air in the hydraulics,the wrong slave,clutch kit, or the flywheel has been turned a few times and needs a shim.. now since you said you had an issue and change the clutch and you still have the issue one would think its not the clutch assembly.and the throw out bearing/slave (if its an internal) are pretty standard, so to it leaves air or an clearance issue. fyi a good clutch,tranny,hydraulics can be shifted into higher gears without a clutch at times, so since 1st and reverse are the lowest ratios they have the most issues when having a hydraulic issue. how are you bleeding the hydraulic system...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It has an external slave cylinder. On the top of the slave cylinder is a small allen head fitting/ bleeder valve that you can use to bleed it just like the brakes or any hydraulic system. I had not even thought about the flywheel being ground down. I may see if I can't find the dimensions on a new one and put a caliper on the one I have to see if it's off. How do you check the throw on the external?

Also, I did put the clutch on like the old one, but I am 99% sure that it's right. I've replaced about half a dozen clutches now, so I hope I got it right. Can't hurt to double check though.

Thanks for the great advice, now I have some to-dos for tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
Tips from the Beas

Unfortunately, your synchronizers have gone bad. I had the same problem with my AX-15. Synchro between 3-4 was gashed bad when I tore into it. Not a hard project if you know what to do. About a $250 rebuild.

"the GRINCH" Portage, IN :crazy:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
OK if you have done that many clutch odds are its correct, i own a tranny shop and have built trannys for the past 15 years. when i bleed a system i pump,open bleeder,push down peddle,close bleeder,peddle up, repeat.... between every 2-3 cycles i check fluid... from the face of the throw out bearing in position 1(engaged) to the face in position 2(released) the total amount of movement is not more than 1 inch give or take. i made a tool that i could bolt on, in the slave position and tighten a bolt by hand to release the pressure plate/clutch just to see if i can by pass the hydraulics. if i can tighten the bolt and have the pressure plate in the released mode and i was able to crank up the jeep, and shift in and out of gear with no grinding then i knew it was...hydraulics, or a clearance issue
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
665 Posts
The op says that it only grinds when he shifts and is moving, no grinding when he puts in gear setting still. If he had air in the system it would grind setting still when he puts it in gear. The synchros are at fault, did they go bad all at once? Prob not the op stated that he got the jeep used and it was doing the same thing when he got it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Wow I know this is an older post but I am a new user and I have the same issue on a 1995 I just bought. Did you ever figure out the problem? What did you do to fix it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No, unfortunately I didn't have much time or money at the time to fix the issue so I sorta decided to deal with it when it started causing problems. However, I've been driving the Jeep daily now for about 6 months and oddly the problem hasn't worsened at all. Still makes the same grinding noise whenever I engage any of the gears, but I would have expected it to get worse and eventually the trans to fail. I've put 12,000 miles on the transmission and it has not changed at all. The only real downside is people hear the grind in parking lots and assume that I can't drive stick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
No, unfortunately I didn't have much time or money at the time to fix the issue so I sorta decided to deal with it when it started causing problems. However, I've been driving the Jeep daily now for about 6 months and oddly the problem hasn't worsened at all. Still makes the same grinding noise whenever I engage any of the gears, but I would have expected it to get worse and eventually the trans to fail. I've put 12,000 miles on the transmission and it has not changed at all. The only real downside is people hear the grind in parking lots and assume that I can't drive stick.
I feel the same way... Like they are looking at the fool that cannot drive his jeep... Well thank you very much for the reply. I have been combing the forum to see if there is a fix but unsuccessful so far. I am considering a new rebuilt one, or rebuilding my own with a kit. Rebuilding one myself might be a bridge too far... We will see. My jeep guy here at "Happy Trails" in Jacksonville says to drive it till it dies and then go from there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I wanted to write a follow-up to this post in case someone came across it one day. Last week, after having the Wrangler for over a year and a half and putting nearly 42,000 miles on it, i have decided to sell it (got a TJ and could use the extra cash).

During this time, the transmission never got noticeably worse and drove exactly the same. I decided that it would be worth it while selling the Jeep to have a good transmission, so I decided to have it rebuilt. Turns out that all of my synchros were pretty worn out. Also, the mainshaft rear bearing was shot and the mainshaft had considerable scaring. Put the rebuilt transmission back in the Jeep and it drives great. Don't know if this will help anyone, but just know that it is possible to have the synchros worn out in all gears.

On a side note, I took the transmission to Precision Gear in Marietta, GA and these are some great guys. They seem to specialize in Jeep transmissions and did the whole job for $600. It took them less than a week. I would highly recommend them to anyone in the area that needs some work done.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top