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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,
So my inner axle seal has been going for some time, started out as a swat and its progressed go a drip so its time to be replaced. Watched some youtube vids on how to replace the seal and while lengthy i think i can do it. Anyone have any pointers while im waiting for the seal? Ex. Rtv the outside of the seal, how to tell when its seated, extension lengths, torque values, etc? Got the crown replacements as they were like 1/3 the price of the mopar ones and looked better honestly.
 

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My's well do both while your in there.do you have the seal tool or you gonna make one ?
Make sure you keep caps and shims together for each side and clean axle tubes real good.
A little RTV on outside of seal but don't over do it. For me I think the Yukon tool I used helped
Seal go in straight . Good luck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My's well do both while your in there.do you have the seal tool or you gonna make one ? Make sure you keep caps and shims together for each side and clean axle tubes real good. A little RTV on outside of seal but don't over do it. For me I think the Yukon tool I used helped Seal go in straight . Good luck...
Yupp ordered two, like you said might as well do both. Probably gonna just make something up with sockets and extensions considering the yukon tool is like a hundred bucks. And ok a little rtv on the outside and clean the tubes, got it! Any other pointers?
 

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I used a brush like this on my CJ and it worked great and made a tool like this...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have the Yokon driver if you want to borrow it ? http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/u-joint-axle-seal-project-873545.html The best advice I can give is make sure the carrier, shims, retainers are marked and go back in the same spot. It's not a hard job but not easy by no means. Get yourself a quality 13mm 12 point boxed wrench for the hub bolts ... Those will be a bitch if it's the first time coming out
Ken, thanks so much for the offer but your a little too far of a drive, again i cant thank you enough for the offer though. And steve that is an awesome setup! I might rig something up like that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ship it ? Can't cost more then $20 back and forth
Think im gonna try steves setup, looks really easy to make and use. Thanks though man. :)
 

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Think im gonna try steves setup, looks really easy to make and use. Thanks though man. :)
If you go my route...go with the set up, I made, but inside the pumpkin rather than the C on the end. In other words instead of pulling from the "C" on the axle use the other side of the pumpkin to push the seal in.

Not sure I'm explaining this too well but...

Lastly, Kjeeper10 is right...it's a real tight fit so go slowly. I went through a few seals until I got it right...from practice.. :)

Edit...found a photo...



SC
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you go my route...go with the set up, I made, but inside the pumpkin rather than the C on the end. In other words instead of pulling from the "C" on the axle use the other side of the pumpkin to push the seal in. Not sure I'm explaining this too well but... Lastly, Kjeeper10 is right...it's a real tight fit so go slowly. I went through a few seals until I got it right...from practice.. :) Edit...found a photo... SC
Uh oh. I only ordered two and no one around here stocks them. Great lol
 

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Do you have a part number for that new seal, I just had mine changed under warranty and want to see if they put in the new or old design.
 

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Strage, the ones they have listed in the parts used on warranty work is 68003270-AA
I wonder if they are putting outdated parts and maybe that is why it has been service three times for the same thing.
 

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I have never used the "tool" shown in this thread.

Use a metal tube (in a JK D30/44 the seal ID allows the use typically of a floor jack handle). And a socket that fits inside the seal to the first step but NOT tight fitting inside the seal lip. Once it is driven in the seal metal sleeve reduces a tad and you dont want the seal to shrink on to the socket. If you have a ball joint tool set, then there is a perfect sized adapter in it.

Then feed the tube thru the housing to the the socket/adapter mentioned above and fit the seal in to the end. IF you can have a second person it really helps. While holding the tube and applying enough pressure to keep it all in place aligned to the seal opening, take a 3-4lbs (or what ever hammer you have) and give it a Nice hard firm hit in to start the seal in to the hole. I would say hard enough to where you would break a window easily. Then it only takes maybe 3 smaller hits and its in.

Installed about 400 axle seals this way and would guess, only about 3 or 4 were wasted in doing so. I have had to go over to friends places to install theirs after they destroy their pair they bought, trying to use that tool or a version of it, listed else where in this thread.

Once solid whack gets it aligned. Dont weak sauce the first hit. And if the hammer is a larger size, it really helps with the force behind it to help drive it in, not bounce back some.
 

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I have never used the "tool" shown in this thread.

Use a metal tube (in a JK D30/44 the seal ID allows the use typically of a floor jack handle). And a socket that fits inside the seal to the first step but NOT tight fitting inside the seal lip. Once it is driven in the seal metal sleeve reduces a tad and you dont want the seal to shrink on to the socket. If you have a ball joint tool set, then there is a perfect sized adapter in it.

Then feed the tube thru the housing to the the socket/adapter mentioned above and fit the seal in to the end. IF you can have a second person it really helps. While holding the tube and applying enough pressure to keep it all in place aligned to the seal opening, take a 3-4lbs (or what ever hammer you have) and give it a Nice hard firm hit in to start the seal in to the hole. I would say hard enough to where you would break a window easily. Then it only takes maybe 3 smaller hits and its in.

Installed about 400 axle seals this way and would guess, only about 3 or 4 were wasted in doing so. I have had to go over to friends places to install theirs after they destroy their pair they bought, trying to use that tool or a version of it, listed else where in this thread.

Once solid whack gets it aligned. Dont weak sauce the first hit. And if the hammer is a larger size, it really helps with the force behind it to help drive it in, not bounce back some.
Where were you when I was replacing my seals on my CJ... :) I don't know why I didn't think of that...

Thanks for sharing that one. I'll definitely try this next time.

SC
 
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