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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I thought I'd make it to 60,000 miles without another problem with my Jeep, but it was not to be.....

On a trip July 4th the cruise stopped working, and up popped the ABS light and traction control icon. It's been happening intermittently since, not a consistent thing (yet).

Based on the symptom, I've got a bad ABS sensor. But the question is which one. How do I diagnose it? I've plugged a code reader in while the idiot lights are lit but it doesn't show anything. I've tried the three clicks of the ignition switch too, and that yields nothing on the EVIC display (never has for any other issue for that matter, which makes no sense to me unless I'm not doing something right).

The front axle seals were replaced in May, and I'm wondering if something is amiss with one of the fronts as a result. The sensors aren't terribly expensive, so I could always just buy a set and swap them out, but I'd rather know how to properly diagnose it and just fix what needs fixing too.

Any help is appreciated. I'm about to burn this damn thing on the side of the road.....
 

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You need to scan the abs module with a better scanner and get the codes. Then diagnose from there. If you don’t then you are just throwing parts at it.
 

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Well, I thought I'd make it to 60,000 miles without another problem with my Jeep, but it was not to be.....

On a trip July 4th the cruise stopped working, and up popped the ABS light and traction control icon. It's been happening intermittently since, not a consistent thing (yet).

Based on the symptom, I've got a bad ABS sensor. But the question is which one. How do I diagnose it? I've plugged a code reader in while the idiot lights are lit but it doesn't show anything. I've tried the three clicks of the ignition switch too, and that yields nothing on the EVIC display (never has for any other issue for that matter, which makes no sense to me unless I'm not doing something right).

The front axle seals were replaced in May, and I'm wondering if something is amiss with one of the fronts as a result. The sensors aren't terribly expensive, so I could always just buy a set and swap them out, but I'd rather know how to properly diagnose it and just fix what needs fixing too.

Any help is appreciated. I'm about to burn this damn thing on the side of the road.....
If it was a bad sensor the light would be on constantly most likely. My guess is a loose connection or very slightly corroded wire. Take it into a shop like les schwab or a dealer and just ask them to plug their obd reader in. Don’t start buying parts.
 

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And you probably aren’t getting a code when plugged in because your reader might not read ABS codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Figured as much on the ABS codes.....time to swing by the dealer.

Yesterday it pulled a new one. None of the dash lights were on, and pulling away from an intersection just the TC light went on and it cut power just like I was on ice, even though it was 90+ and the road dry as a bone. A second later, nothing.
 

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Dealign with the same on my sons Sport Trac. At any speed, if you put on the brakes the AB kicks in, no light. Basically, one sensor is dropping out way too fast due to either rust/or compromised.

None of my scanners will read sensor input for ABS so I have it going to my mechanic tonight. In the meantime, if you pull the ABS fuse, the light will come on hard and you will revert to 'normal' brakes. Beats constantly overstopping or locking a tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Occasionally I'll feel the AB kicking in slightly on braking, no light either. Pulling the fuse has been a thought.....

Dealer can't get me in for a couple of weeks, time to hit the local auto parts store that will read codes for free and go from there.
 

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I went thru this.

Both the ABS and the Traction Control light come on (DING) and the engine dropped to low power mode.

My code reader was a cheapo, so ordered a new one from Amazon that could read ABS codes. It wasn't that expensive. It indicated the right front sensor was erroneous.

The replacement sensors aren't very expensive, so I bought replacements for all four wheels, just in case.

Installing it was easy enough, but I had to pull the brake caliper and rotor to get to it.

I started getting the error again within a couple days. I checked my work and realized that the wire was touching the upper catalytic converter and had melted it. Still intact, but messed up the signal.

I replaced that with my extra; made extra sure to cable tie the wire as securely as possible along it's route, and didn't have any further problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks to Advance Auto, I now know that it's the driver side front. Once the ambient temp and humidity drop under 100 it'll be time to see if it's just an incomplete connection.

Wonder if the dealership monkeys that did my front axle seals dorked up the sensor.....
 

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Thanks to Advance Auto, I now know that it's the driver side front. Once the ambient temp and humidity drop under 100 it'll be time to see if it's just an incomplete connection.

Wonder if the dealership monkeys that did my front axle seals dorked up the sensor.....
It is possible that there is grease or grime on the sensor, but if you are going thru the effort to remove the wheel and caliper, may just as well replace it (as compared to pulling it out, cleaning it, testing it, then if it still doesn't work, repeating....). The sensors are pretty inexpensive.

There is only one connection; the connector is in the engine compartment, on the drivers side wheel well, just at finger tip reach...if you follow the wire up from the sensor, it is pretty easy to find, but you cannot see it from the outside...gotta look down next to the engine. (at least on my old '07 JKU).


This kid has a video on

He takes the caliper completely off, but I left the top caliper bolt in and just swung it upwards.
 
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