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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think my clutch is pretty much shot in my ax15. I have a 1992 yj 4.0L with about 202000 miles. Just bought it a week ago. It's been shifting great until yesterday out of nowhere.first it started out hard to shift into 1st. Then it got bad going into 2nd. So I pulled over and did the clutch test (stay in neutral for ten to fifteen seconds and shift to reverse, if it grinds your clutch is bad). I messed around with it and found if I shift into first while rolling to a stop it's not bad. But from a stop it's almost impossible. This is my first manual transmission so I'm clueless. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks fellas!
 

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How does the pedal feel? Is it spongy or is it hard? You could have air in the line, so bleed the clutch line and see if you notice any changes. It wont hurt to try.
Reverse grinds because it lacks a synchronizer, so its good to go into first then shift into reverse to eliminate grinding.
Also, next time you drive your jeep get it going in 1st gear and shift at low rpm's until you reach 3rd going around 20 mph. If you floor it and notice the rpm's jumping around inconsistently then your clutch disc is slipping. I also heard of people starting from a stop in 2nd or 3rd gear. If you can go without stalling then your clutch is bad.
-Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The pedal isn't hard but it's not spongy.i went to autozone this morning and bought dot3 and looked in the reservoir and it was dry. I filled it and it still wouldn't go in easy. So I drove it home and then later today I drove it again and it went right in. I can start off in 2nd from a dead stop, easily. Third is a challenge. Does that mean my clutch is shot. I'm in a weird position because before it was shifting better I ordered a Luk pro gold clutch kit and a sachs flywheel. $200 worth of parts. Should I just go ahead and install this stuff? Lol
 

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The pedal isn't hard but it's not spongy.i went to autozone this morning and bought dot3 and looked in the reservoir and it was dry. I filled it and it still wouldn't go in easy. So I drove it home and then later today I drove it again and it went right in. I can start off in 2nd from a dead stop, easily. Third is a challenge. Does that mean my clutch is shot. I'm in a weird position because before it was shifting better I ordered a Luk pro gold clutch kit and a sachs flywheel. $200 worth of parts. Should I just go ahead and install this stuff? Lol
You might just have air in your system, possibly from a bad master cylinder. Clutches don't just go bad from one day to another, but hydraulic components do.
 

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The pedal isn't hard but it's not spongy.i went to autozone this morning and bought dot3 and looked in the reservoir and it was dry. I filled it and it still wouldn't go in easy. So I drove it home and then later today I drove it again and it went right in. I can start off in 2nd from a dead stop, easily. Third is a challenge. Does that mean my clutch is shot. I'm in a weird position because before it was shifting better I ordered a Luk pro gold clutch kit and a sachs flywheel. $200 worth of parts. Should I just go ahead and install this stuff? Lol
If your reservoir was dry the clutch hydraulics are leaking. If they are leaking you have air. Either the slave or the master is leaking, my guess is the slave. Forget whether 92 is internal or external slave but if it's internal you'll have to pull the tranny. If you pull the tranny you might as well change the clutch and flywheel. Especially with 200k+ miles.
 

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I think my clutch is pretty much shot in my ax15. I have a 1992 yj 4.0L with about 202000 miles. Just bought it a week ago. It's been shifting great until yesterday out of nowhere.first it started out hard to shift into 1st. Then it got bad going into 2nd. So I pulled over and did the clutch test (stay in neutral for ten to fifteen seconds and shift to reverse, if it grinds your clutch is bad). I messed around with it and found if I shift into first while rolling to a stop it's not bad. But from a stop it's almost impossible. This is my first manual transmission so I'm clueless. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks fellas!
Try this test: from a full stop in neutral depress the clutch and shift into first, then reverse w/o releasing the clutch, see if it grinds then. Reverse is not synchronized and can sometimes grind a bit when shifting into it, using first then reverse can resolve that issue. If it still grinds doing the above method the clutch is not fully releasing.

Next get up to about 25 mph and shift into 4th gear on a 5 speed and floor it. See what the tach does, if it revs up the clutch is bad.

If it passes the slip test but grinds going into reverse try bleeding the clutch. The brake fluid used in the clutch system breaks down and takes on moisture which can cause grinding. I got several more years out of a clutch that was grinding going into reverse and not fully releasing just by bleeding it.

Having said all of that 202K miles on a Jeep clutch and not knowing the history of the vehicle, how it was used, and how old the clutch is might translate to needing a new clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Snowgoer slave is internal. I've already ordered the parts so I think I'm gonna save them until the clutch is completely gone. I bought the luk pro gold kit and a sachs flywheel. Is that a pretty good combo? Got em both off of partsgeek.com for around $200.
 

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Snowgoer slave is internal. I've already ordered the parts so I think I'm gonna save them until the clutch is completely gone. I bought the luk pro gold kit and a sachs flywheel. Is that a pretty good combo? Got em both off of partsgeek.com for around $200.
I'm not honestly sure of the combo, but I would recommend not waiting. If your clutch isn't working right it's going to wear the tranny parts prematurely, to me it's worth the inconvenience to keep from rebuilding the tranny. And internal slaves are a pita. I'd all but guarentee it's leaking. My advice to you is to spend the money for a good one. Not something you want to do two times.
 
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