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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
QUESTIONS ARE AT THE END: but the Jeep's use and current state are below:

I am putting together my own lift and trying to keep it affordable (oxymoron?) I have done a fair amount of research and picked some mechanics' brains on the topic but I'm still left looking for advice from fellow Jeepers. I'm running 31x10.5s and no-lift shocks. My bump stops keep my tires from contacting both front and rear. This thing isn't going to be wheeled hard. It will be going on some moderate trails but no real rock crawling. ️I wheel fairly slow as well.

I was given:
3" BDS front coils
2.5" net lift height JK Takeoff rear coils
And I have bought zone 1"-3" sway bar end links.

I know I'll need:
Shocks
Rear track bar relocation bracket

If I net 3" of lift in the front will I have to relocate my front trackbar? (Reinforce the mount and drill a new hole)

For the bump stops can I simply add 2-3" extensions and be alright or do I need to flex it and find where I bind or rub?

Thanks guys
 

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If you want the front axle centered, you'll need to redrill the front hole and reinforce, or get an adjustable track bar.

Are you adding larger tires, or simply lifting 3"? The property way would be to cycle the suspension to full bump, and add bump stops as needed.

Don't forget to check your brake line length.
 

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You really need to cycle your suspension and measure for bump stops. You don't want your shocks to become your bump stops. X2 on what Shark_13 mentioned on the track bar. You may (or may not) also find a need to drop your t-case slightly to avoid drive line vibes...or install a 1"mml.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys.

I believe my front axle will be off by about 1/4-3/4". Is that going to wreak havoc if not addressed right away(as opposed to 1-2 months)?

I'm just lifting for now. I may go 32s once these tires wear out but I'll be adjusting bump according to my 31s.

So I can run my stock shocks providing I do the correct bump stop length? (Just until I have money for new shocks).
 

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I would also consider a Motor Mount Lift so you can avoid having to drop the skidplate/xfercase 1"+ to get the rear driveline from vibrating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Dextreme. That's a good idea, I don't want to lessen the clearance I'll be gaining. Are MMLs pretty easy to install?
 

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Here's a link to the instructions for Zone's 3 inch lift. I know you're piecing yours together, but this will give you a good idea of what's included in their kit to help think of some things you may need for yours. There are also instructions in there on relocating your front track bar. I'd imagine it's better to just relocate it as you're installing your lift. Only thing you'll probably need to buy is the right size drill bit.

http://4x4media.info/instructions/zon/J1300_J1301.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hosejockey, I have read that the proper way to check is to take the springs out but still have some questions. Do I take all of the springs out at once? Won't the weight of the vehicle just rest on the current bumpstops? Finally, if the springs are out and my shocks compress all of the way won't I ruin them? (This is assuming I am setting bump stops for my no lift shocks)

Reb, thanks for the link. I'm about to take a look!
 

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Do I take all of the springs out at once? Won't the weight of the vehicle just rest on the current bumpstops? Finally, if the springs are out and my shocks compress all of the way won't I ruin them? (This is assuming I am setting bump stops for my no lift shocks)
Work one end at a time. The same thing for each end.

Place jack stands (6-ton work best as they are taller) under the frame just behind the upper control arm mounts. Get as high as you can (you'll need to jack up the axle to do this). Once you get your stands in place, lower the axle back down and pull the springs (undo lower shock bolts first to allow for more droop).

With the Jeep on stands at the frame rail, your axle is free to move around. Use a jack (I use two) to jack the axle up ad see if it makes contact with anything. Then one side up, the other down and visaversa.

Jack it up until it hits something. Measure the space between the BS pad and cup (jounce bumper removed). Next, re-attach the shocks and jack the axle back up until the shock bottoms out. Make another measurement from the pad to the cup. Lastly, you will need to put your tires on and do everything again. With the tire into the fender as far as it will go, measure again. Be sure to do full bump and one side bumped the other drooped.

Look at all of your measurements. The biggest measurement is what you need to set your BS to which will either be your tires or shocks.

This is not an all inclusive detailed write up, but gives you the idea of what you need to do. Bottom line is, you need to move that axle all around checking for interference issues. Common issues are track bars into aftermarket diff covers, wrong size shocks, and tires into the fenders (can be fixed with aftermarket highline fenders such as Metalcloak or Genright etc.

There are a million (now a million and one lol) threads out there on bumpstop extensions. Unlimited04 is the BS guru (pun intended). He has links in his signature.

HTH
 

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Thanks guys.

I believe my front axle will be off by about 1/4-3/4". Is that going to wreak havoc if not addressed right away(as opposed to 1-2 months)?
.
The axles being off center has no affect on anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Hosejockey. That answers a couple questions I had.

I have been reading a lot of your threads about this Unlimited but I'll get reading on this link, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Fair enough...I thought they made a highline version, but I guess not. OP, this is the type of fender I was referring to: http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=TFF2720 https://www.tntcustoms.com/jeep_parts/high_clearance_jeep_fenders_45_inch_flare_tj_lj_hyline
I love high lines. I did a lot of reading on high lining my stock fenders but decided against it for fear of making it look like a hack job. Thanks for all of the help guys. I appreciate it!
 

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Diy hiline
ForumRunner_20150404_213305.jpg


Un cut hood line (mc fender/MCE flare/stock fender/flat fender).
35" tire, 15.25/25" shock length, 2" bumpstop extension/1.25" bl.

ForumRunner_20150404_213421.jpg


ForumRunner_20150404_213812.jpg

Hiline fender.
25" extended shock length.
Stock bumpstop, 1.25" bl.

ForumRunner_20150404_214018.jpg



ForumRunner_20150404_214251.jpg


Extended shock tower, 28.5" extended shock length to add the lost uptravel and keep the maximum downtravel possible without exceeding the spring free length.
ForumRunner_20150404_214436.jpg
 

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A 3" lift will offcenter yhe front axle about a half inch. We cannot redrill the axle mount hole over 1/4" to correct it. Redril it 5/8-3/4" and youre off the same the other direction, then the bumpstops land on the knuckle and pinch the springs.

Leave it a half inch off center unless you have a 15" or longer collapsed shock length requiring 2" or more bump extension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
A 3" lift will offcenter yhe front axle about a half inch. We cannot redrill the axle mount hole over 1/4" to correct it. Redril it 5/8-3/4" and youre off the same the other direction, then the bumpstops land on the knuckle and pinch the springs. Leave it a half inch off center unless you have a 15" or longer collapsed shock length requiring 2" or more bump extension.
This is very good advice. Thank you for your input.
 
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