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I am going to go with the 285/75r17 and Rancho RS66119BR9 2in Sport Suspension System with RS9000XL shocks.
Have you seen this thread on that lift?
 

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Quick question on caster adjustment if you have front lower and upper adjustable arms

Let’s say both arms set up and alignment reads 4.3 caster ... if you wanted to add a bit more caster (let’s say to get it up to 4.6 for example) is it better at that point to adjust the lowers out a little or make the uppers a little shorter and keep the lowers the way they are ?

Any advantage or disadvantage of adjusting one or the other ?
 

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Quick question on caster adjustment if you have front lower and upper adjustable arms

Let’s say both arms set up and alignment reads 4.3 caster ... if you wanted to add a bit more caster (let’s say to get it up to 4.6 for example) is it better at that point to adjust the lowers out a little or make the uppers a little shorter and keep the lowers the way they are ?

Any advantage or disadvantage of adjusting one or the other ?
Standard practice is to use the lower front arm to adjust caster. In reality, either will adjust caster. But standard practice is to use the lower.
Adjusting the lower arm longer to add caster also slightly moves the front axle farther forward. Normally that is fine. But if you already have the axle as far forward as it can be and you still need more caster you can adjust the upper arm, making it shorter, which will also slightly move the front axle rearward. It is not so much an advantage for one or the other but a difference in how it moves the front axle. Making the lower arm longer moves the axle slightly forward, while making the lower arm shorter (reducing caster) would move the front axle rearward. The same is true for the upper arm, longer moves the axle forward and shorter moves the axle rearward. The difference is the effect on caster, longer lower is more caster and longer upper is less caster, both are moving the front axle farther forwards.
If you really like where the axle is, you might be able to adjust both in unison, making half the adjustment by making the lowert arms longer and the other half by making the upper arms shorter. That could, if the two adjustments balanced each other out, keep the axle in the same location while adding the required caster.

When adjusting this, keep an eye on your pinion angle. Both adjustments also have an effect on pinion angle, as front caster and front pinion angle are linked.
 

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Hello,

Currently have a 2012 JKU:
2" rancho sport lift.
Rancho front LCA
Jks quick disco
Quadratec hardrock wheels 5.2 backspace
Heavy front bumper/winch
Rear bumper
Rock hard sliders
4.56 gears, F/R trutrac

Issue is that my lift now measures 1.1" in front and 0.5" in back above stock.
I don't really consider it heavy but maybe I'm mistaken. Anyway I currently am on 255/75r17. Looking to soon go to 285/75r17 or 35/10.5r17 kendas.

I would like a some more lift, not really interested in spacers though and would rather replace coils and eventually shocks.

Wondering what a good route would be. Currently researching mopar coils, teraflex 2.5, jks 2.5.

Another possibility I've thought of was MC 2.5 coils for the 2 door. In speaking with MC they say I should expect a "true" 2.5 lift. Wondering if 0-2.5 OME shocks would pair well with this given the rumor that rocks sport shocks are the same. What kind of lift could I expect? I know every jeep is different lol.

I tend to do easy to moderate trails in Colorado, but am finding i prefer an increasingly more difficult path. Not a rock crawler though. Looking for opinions/guidance on the upgrade.
Thanks
 

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Standard practice is to use the lower front arm to adjust caster. In reality, either will adjust caster. But standard practice is to use the lower.
Adjusting the lower arm longer to add caster also slightly moves the front axle farther forward. Normally that is fine. But if you already have the axle as far forward as it can be and you still need more caster you can adjust the upper arm, making it shorter, which will also slightly move the front axle rearward. It is not so much an advantage for one or the other but a difference in how it moves the front axle. Making the lower arm longer moves the axle slightly forward, while making the lower arm shorter (reducing caster) would move the front axle rearward. The same is true for the upper arm, longer moves the axle forward and shorter moves the axle rearward. The difference is the effect on caster, longer lower is more caster and longer upper is less caster, both are moving the front axle farther forwards.
If you really like where the axle is, you might be able to adjust both in unison, making half the adjustment by making the lowert arms longer and the other half by making the upper arms shorter. That could, if the two adjustments balanced each other out, keep the axle in the same location while adding the required caster.

When adjusting this, keep an eye on your pinion angle. Both adjustments also have an effect on pinion angle, as front caster and front pinion angle are linked.
Thank you @GuzziMoto I ended up shortening the hopers by half turn and the lower lengthen by half turn - put a GoPro under neath to record and there are no vibes everything looks good!

I had to adjust my rear arms as well because my JKS rear trackbar nut was rubbing in my passenger rear coil

I noticed that the bolts in the rear lower arms go In Super smooth (even after adjusting one side) and then doing the other arm ...is there a reason why the front lowers are a bit tighter ? In the front I had to put a jack under the diff to line up the hole
 

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Hello,

Currently have a 2012 JKU:
2" rancho sport lift.
Rancho front LCA
Jks quick disco
Quadratec hardrock wheels 5.2 backspace
Heavy front bumper/winch
Rear bumper
Rock hard sliders
4.56 gears, F/R trutrac

Issue is that my lift now measures 1.1" in front and 0.5" in back above stock.
I don't really consider it heavy but maybe I'm mistaken. Anyway I currently am on 255/75r17. Looking to soon go to 285/75r17 or 35/10.5r17 kendas.

I would like a some more lift, not really interested in spacers though and would rather replace coils and eventually shocks.

Wondering what a good route would be. Currently researching mopar coils, teraflex 2.5, jks 2.5.

Another possibility I've thought of was MC 2.5 coils for the 2 door. In speaking with MC they say I should expect a "true" 2.5 lift. Wondering if 0-2.5 OME shocks would pair well with this given the rumor that rocks sport shocks are the same. What kind of lift could I expect? I know every jeep is different lol.

I tend to do easy to moderate trails in Colorado, but am finding i prefer an increasingly more difficult path. Not a rock crawler though. Looking for opinions/guidance on the upgrade.
Thanks
Not sure on the MOPAR or the JKS as we dont deal with them that much but the TeraFlex is a linear rate coil and the MC is a progressive rate coil. The MC's will hold weight better than a linear rate. TeraFlex is a great ride though but so in the MC. I think you will get more height from the MC coils.

Which shocks are you running?

If we can help, please feel free to reach out to us! We are here to help any way we can!

-Jason
 

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Just measured my lift and looks like I am getting a little over 4 inches with my metalcloak 3.5 coils ...I already have the yeti tie rod and drag link (bottom mount)

How do I go about changing to high steer ? Do I just buy the one end piece that yeti sells for top mount and screw it into my current drag link(the longer piece that mounts into pitman)and the track bar relocation ?

Thank you in advance for any advice and help
 

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Just measured my lift and looks like I am getting a little over 4 inches with my metalcloak 3.5 coils ...I already have the yeti tie rod and drag link (bottom mount)

How do I go about changing to high steer ? Do I just buy the one end piece that yeti sells for top mount and screw it into my current drag link(the longer piece that mounts into pitman)and the track bar relocation ?

Thank you in advance for any advice and help
Correct! It is that easy. If we can help, let us know:

-Jason
 

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Looks like I'm a special case. I'm disabled. Left arm don't work BUT the problem I'm having that pertains to this thread is tingling in my left arm that is constant. However it gets worse with vibration. This nerve pain is getting worse slowly. While I spend most of my time on the highway I love offroading in my JKU. A few pages ago guys helped me figure out what I needed. When I bought the Jeep it already had a 4" Pro Comp lift. Since then I switched springs to 3" EVO and Rancho 9000 shocks. I recently put on a set of 35" Coopers set at 26 lbs. I have the Ranchos set at 0. I'm pretty satisfied with the current setup however anytime the tires hit a rough spot that extends across the road where both fronts hit it followed by rears I get a jarring sensation that causes my left arm pain to rise a lot. The only improvement I can see that may cure this is shocks. I considered cheap OEM that are made for raised Jeeps to maybe Fox 2.0 Performance Adjusters. Any ideas for an old cripple guy that isn't ready to trade for a Cadillac yet?
 

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Wow, sorry to hear that!

Is it a jarring from the suspension or a jerking of the steering wheel?

Swapping to a softer set of coils I think would help. The Rancho's are already on the softer end of the shock spectrum.

-Jason
 

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Wow, sorry to hear that!
I appreciate that. I'm o.k. I've pretty much learned to live with it. I'm good.
Is it a jarring from the suspension or a jerking of the steering wheel?
Jarring from the sudden hit of both wheels on same axle. Same bump but only on one side isn't a problem. No problems with steering.
Swapping to a softer set of coils I think would help.
I still haven't healed from the last spring change. I did fronts one day and rear the next literally single handed. I won't do that again. ... The EVOs have done an otherwise good job on the road and on some trails in Big Bend country, New Mexico & Az. It's just these dang La. roads where heat has caused the asphalt to buckle up, a transition on a small bridge or other such interuptions across the roads. ... What would be a softer ride than the EVOs? Mine are a 3" lift. I think the actual lift is closer to 4" by my measurement. I had to measure a new JKUS on the lot to get a base measurement. If I do change again it will be to something shorter.
The Rancho's are already on the softer end of the shock spectrum.

-Jason
I kinda thought they were. It didn't hurt to ask about the adjustable Fox. They look cool and is something a 72 yr.old with only one functioning arm can do.
 

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Just wanted to bring this back to the top. We have been doing more and more of this kit, thanks to you guys. Just wanted to bring it back to the top so the new comers can see it!


If you have any questions or if there is anything we can do, please PM, email, or call us at anytime!

-Jason
 

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Just wanted to bring this back to the top. We have been doing more and more of this kit, thanks to you guys. Just wanted to bring it back to the top so the new comers can see it!


If you have any questions or if there is anything we can do, please PM, email, or call us at anytime!

-Jason
I like that you are keeping it alive. After Allen went away I was worried it would fade into history.
 

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I like that you are keeping it alive. After Allen went away I was worried it would fade into history.
Nah, Allen was a good guy. Hate to see he is gone but we are not going anywhere. We will be here to help you guys on the forums and everywhere else! No worries.

-Jason
 

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A friend out 18's on the front of his Jk and a RC 2.5 BB. Complained of jittery steering and installed AEV's drop brackets.
You may or may not have a caster issue depending on the height.

What about trimming the factory flares ?
I have a stock 2014 jk, what would be a good, mid range lift kit? I’m wanting to run 33’s.
 

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I have a stock 2014 jk, what would be a good, mid range lift kit? I’m wanting to run 33’s.
A 2" or 2.5" lift would be plenty to run 33's.
Good brands to choose from include AEV, MetalCloak, and the Mopar 2" lift (really a 2.5" lift). At the cheaper end would be the Rancho 2" progressive spring lift, which is really a 2" lift. It comes with different shocks, typically either 5000 series Rancho shocks or 9000 series Rancho adjustable shocks.
Most 2.5" lifts, and even 2" lifts, benefit from caster correction. Some include it, others don't. But you can always add it. The Mopar 2" lift includes cam bolts for caster correction. I recommend you skip those and add either a set of Rancho geometry brackets or a set of longer / adjustable lower front control arms. The same options, geometry brackets or longer / adjustable lower front control arms, will work with any lift that does not include caster correction, including the AEV 2.5" lift mentioned earlier. Some MetalCloak lifts include caster correction, others don't. But pretty much any 2.5" lift needs caster correction to maintain proper steering and ride.
 

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I have a stock 2014 jk, what would be a good, mid range lift kit? I’m wanting to run 33’s.
What are your current tires? My 2015 JKU had 32's out the gate. Going to 33's wouldn't have yielded much difference.
 
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