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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2005 Jeep Rubicon Unlimited. I have installed a 1.25” BL and a 1” MML and it have about a 3” lift.

I need to install a new high clearance skid plate and remove the shovel. Dose anyone know the highest skid plate I can install without having to change my drive train? Obviously I would like the highest possible.
 

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I have a 2005 Jeep tj unlimited (not a rubicon) same Mml, body lift and 3” suspension lift. I Installed a teraflex belly up transfer case skid plate with no driveline changes.
 

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Check Undercover Fabworks website for info on different levels of tucks.
 

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Savvy is the highest and lowest profile "bolt on" skid you can get.

As I understand it, Barnes and UFC might be the lowest profile that doesn't raise the drivetrain above stock.

With your longer Unlimited, I wouldn't hesitate to go with the Savvy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. I would like to go with the Savvy or fabricate one myself. Fabrication would be easier if I can put on a flat skid. I just don’t want to have to redo the drive shaft.
 

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i got a 1" BL. and have my TC shoved up as far as i can go, and it doesn't seem to want to go any higher. nothing contacts anywhere. but it seems stiff and unable to go higher.
i can get maybe a 2" drop skid to fit it now, but how are yall gettin to flat? even with another 1" of BL i don't feel i could push it up to flat.
i run a Currie MML, is it possible this material not soft enough to allow enough flex within the bushing to allow it to twist and let me get that back end up more?
 

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i got a 1" BL. and have my TC shoved up as far as i can go, and it doesn't seem to want to go any higher. nothing contacts anywhere. but it seems stiff and unable to go higher.
i can get maybe a 2" drop skid to fit it now, but how are yall gettin to flat? even with another 1" of BL i don't feel i could push it up to flat.
i run a Currie MML, is it possible this material not soft enough to allow enough flex within the bushing to allow it to twist and let me get that back end up more?
The fan will hit the shroud. Move the shroud. After that, the next interferences should be along the transmission tunnel. Assuming the tub has been sufficiently dimpled above the transfer case, there are several wiring harness on top of the transmission before metal starts touching metal. That last bit towards completely flat is difficult to get before the compromises start adding up quickly.

Savvy hangs down about 1.875" in the middle 12" before sweeping up to the frame rails. There is actually a way to recover an additional 1/16" with a lot of work. Counter sinking the six frame bolts also helps a lot with smoothing that riding edge.
 

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shroud was moved up for the BL, and now the bottom edge would be tight spot if i continued to bring the back up.

if the Savvy is almost 1.8" at it's worst then i'm not far off at 2". i have a big chunk of 3/8" 6061 aluminum plate i'd like to make use of. of course beveling the edges out and countersinking the bolts. and i might be able to angle it upward in front some i'll have to peek that. but i wanna be low enough to continue my trans and oil pan skid from it.

i don't need to be flat and have not prepped the belly for it, but again 1.8" vs 2" sounds like it's a reasonable improvement. thanx
 
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