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2017 JKUR 3.5" MC Kit
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Surprised I got one since I don't really wheel hard but now that I'm sinking more $$ into this what's the best way to go in terms of brand and strength on a replacement? Seeing a good amount of product out there.
 

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2017 JKUR 3.5" MC Kit
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would go with chromoly shafts. I’ve been running Ten Factory shafts for years. Heavy Jeep, tough trails, no bends or breaks. Last time I checked Northridge sells them with bearings already pressed on, which makes installation a breeze.
Seems there are 4130 and 4340 options out there. Better to go stronger and get the 4340?
 

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Seems there are 4130 and 4340 options out there. Better to go stronger and get the 4340?
Some people say go with the stronger of the two because they don’t want to break a shaft on the trail, others say go with the weaker of the two and use that as a “fuse” so to say that would break first before destroying your gears. I understand what they are saying because gears are a really expensive repair versus replacing an axle shaft.

My Jeep is going in for new gears next week and I am still on the factory shafts and I’m not sure which way I will go when it comes time for new shafts.
 

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I would go with chromoly shafts. I’ve been running Ten Factory shafts for years. Heavy Jeep, tough trails, no bends or breaks. Last time I checked Northridge sells them with bearings already pressed on, which makes installation a breeze.
I ran the same shafts when I still had a rear D44 and they were great, never gave me issues. In regards to which metallurgy to get I would go 4340 if you can. Both are going to be significantly stronger than stock, but 4340 has a slight edge.

 

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TenFactory are solid, have a good warranty and you can buy the complete assembly with new retainers, seals, bearings .. Carbon Off-road also sells the complete axle assemblies.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The revolutions have thread-in wheel studs. I seem to recall a buddy had issues with thread stripping. Maybe a fluke.
Thanks for pointing that out. I don't know enough to about it to know if it should change my mind. Like the price better of factory 10 but warranty and made in USA of revolution seems like a good deal
 

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I got the Revolutions, they've been great. I once forgot to tighten the lugs after working on the Jeep and on the highway we nearly lost the rear wheel. The beadlocks luckily caught the lug nuts. One of the lugs snapped off and I was able to replace it with a new bolt. Revolution sent me new lugs for free, but I just used a fine pitch grade 8 and it worked fine.
 

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Another thing on the revo's is they are never in stock...even before covid there was always a 6 week wait...I buy American whenever I can but what good is the lifetime warranty if you have to wait 6 weeks for your replacement...I went with carbon off road... everything pressed on for an easy install and a 15 year warranty....super happy....

OP my 17 had a bent shaft at 600 miles....it was still a baby and never been off road and I had to have the dealer replace one.....
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I got the Revolutions, they've been great. I once forgot to tighten the lugs after working on the Jeep and on the highway we nearly lost the rear wheel. The beadlocks luckily caught the lug nuts. One of the lugs snapped off and I was able to replace it with a new bolt. Revolution sent me new lugs for free, but I just used a fine pitch grade 8 and it worked fine.
Do you remember when installing how you got the wheel studs in? I know you need red loctite and I think 90 lb torque. Do you install the studs once the axle is on? Trying to think through how/when I can torque this stuff. I'm Thinking it needs to be on the jeep because I don't have a vice or anything that will hold the flange to allow me to torque it. Are the installs instructions solid? I'm handy but by no means do I know what I'm doing here. I've done a dynatrac bbk upgrade myself and bumper/light installs butnot much beyond that.
 

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Back when I was in the market....it was 6 weeks ...I called Revo twice asking about production and kept getting the same answer...
A friend had a failed Revolution part a few months ago and it was 4-6 weeks as I recall before he got the new part under warranty. I don’t remember for sure, but I think it was a front shaft.
 

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Do you remember when installing how you got the wheel studs in? I know you need red loctite and I think 90 lb torque. Do you install the studs once the axle is on? Trying to think through how/when I can torque this stuff. I'm Thinking it needs to be on the jeep because I don't have a vice or anything that will hold the flange to allow me to torque it. Are the installs instructions solid? I'm handy but by no means do I know what I'm doing here. I've done a dynatrac bbk upgrade myself and bumper/light installs butnot much beyond that.
Here's a link to my build thread when I did mine Brutus - 2014 JKUR on 40s

4514581
 

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Do you remember when installing how you got the wheel studs in? I know you need red loctite and I think 90 lb torque. Do you install the studs once the axle is on? Trying to think through how/when I can torque this stuff. I'm Thinking it needs to be on the jeep because I don't have a vice or anything that will hold the flange to allow me to torque it. Are the installs instructions solid? I'm handy but by no means do I know what I'm doing here. I've done a dynatrac bbk upgrade myself and bumper/light installs butnot much beyond that.
Studs have to go on before the axle is installed. There won’t be enough room to put them in later. You may be able to torque them to spec once the axles are installed.


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I used a stud install tool, basically a bearing with a conical seat that matches the lug nut face, to install them.
I am pretty sure the axles were still on the Jeep when I installed them, but I could be wrong.
I seem to recall the parking brake shoes making it hard.
 
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