Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,879 Posts
Along these lines--Would the Spicer 5-760x also fit in a set of alloy chromo shafts?
 

·
Knows a couple things...
Joined
·
48,845 Posts
It's tough to understand how someone could provide you with part numbers without knowing which model TJ you have. Hopefully, you don't have a Rubicon. Because, if you do, the driveshaft joints are not going to fit.
It would have taken you ten seconds to read his Garage profile to know he drives a Sport.

Along these lines--Would the Spicer 5-760x also fit in a set of alloy chromo shafts?
If the chromoly shafts use the OE size u-joints yes the 5-760x joints fit. Some alloy shafts are now coming set up for the larger 1350 size u-joints but most are set up to work with the OE Dana 44 size 297 and 5-760x. The 5-760x is a direct replacement for the OE 5-297 standard TJs came equipped with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
how many do I need to order if I need to replace all of u-joints in the drive train for a 99' TJ Sport?
I'm guessing 5?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
7

2 for the Axle Shafts, 3 for front Driveshaft, 2 for rear Driveshaft
Thanks for the feedback. I already have had done the front axle shafts.
So, it looks like I need 5 of them.

Will all 5 (7 if I did axles) be the same exact U-joint?

I'm thinking the problem is U-joints since I am "squeaking" bad at end of day but it stops when I spray WD40 on the U-joints. A lot of the noise went away when I disengaged the transfer case too (Front drive shaft no longer turning?).

Also, I see mixed opinions regarding greaseable (zerk fitting) and the non-greaseable. I just assumed that one would want the greaseable ones but it doesn't necessarily look that way according to various opinions here. It looks like strong support for a higher quality non-greaseable (Spicer?) u joint. Surprising to me as I figured being able to add grease would be a good thing.
I'm mainly fire/dirt/gravel roads (lots of dry dust), large puddles/small creek crossings, maybe a little wheelin' in the future, and lots of suburban road use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
506 Posts
Also.... Sometime the squeaking is the CV ball and socket joint....not just the U-joints. I have had that ball and socket joint bind and cause major problems....broken T-Case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
I have a 2006 LJ as a daily driver. When I first replaced the u-joints, I used greaseable all around. I thought they would last a long time, they're greaseable, right? Well, somewhat quickly some of the zerks would not let any grease go through them. The zerks were the needle point grease gun type.
They lasted for awhile, but not long enough in my mind based on not being able to get the grease into them.
I've replaced them with the Spicer sealed u-joints, no zerks. We'll see how long they last. I expect them to work better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,879 Posts
I had a greaseable 1310 fail with less than 20k miles. Have the sealed versions on their way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
Also.... Sometime the squeaking is the CV ball and socket joint....not just the U-joints. I have had that ball and socket joint bind and cause major problems....broken T-Case.
Would this be the Drive Shaft Pinion Yoke or the Universal Joint Yoke?
Does it take 1 or 2 of these?
Should I order either the Strap or U-bolt style?
Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
394 Posts
Ubolts would require you to drill out the holes of the yolk to 5/16. Not a big deal, the metal is pretty soft.
 

·
Knows a couple things...
Joined
·
48,845 Posts
Ubolts would require you to drill out the holes of the yolk to 5/16. Not a big deal, the metal is pretty soft.
Spicer or equivalent straps are the way to go. The strength of a pair of u-bolts is simply of no benefit in that location, it's the yoke that provides all of the required strength. Plus it's way too easy to overtighten u-bolts which damages the bearing caps and bearings inside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
I don't intend to hijack this thread but i think that sealed Moog u joints are the best. Greasable u joints are cross drilled and inherently weaker. There is an argument that people want an easy to change weak link so they use greasable drive shaft u joints, This is a bad idea as the u joint may fail at high speed and then you have a shaft flailing around at high rpm.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top